spoonman
Active member
If you disconnect the coil will the game work properly?
Freddy Flippers and Start Button Stopped Working
- Thread starter Fatsquatch
- Start date
OP
OP
Fatsquatch
Active member
I haven't tried that, but I suppose I should.
If the fuse doesn't blow after the coil is disconnected, then I guess that tells me everything else (but the coil) is good.
I'll try that tomorrow, for sure.
Steelhorse
New member
Well I registered with choochoopinball and took a look and well seems "Ricky" leaves peoples questions unanswered, what I mean is theres a few where Ricky says he will get back to them and doesn't. He told one post that when he gets back to his shop he will take pictures and check a similar machine to check a problem and well he does not get back. So what gives? I know people get busy but to have a forum for tech support and the tech. is a bit flaky. Thank god we have KLOV forums! I'am Damn glad to be here. Jeff
RLEVIN
Permanently Banned. Buyer Beware. Questionable bus
Thanks for bringing that to my attention and problem is fixed. He said I am running him to death but now we have 2 techs
Last edited:
OP
OP
Fatsquatch
Active member
#1) I disconnected the coil that I thought might be triggering the blown fuse, but that wasn't it. After replacing the fuse, I still heard the "knock" of a coil firing, and the fuse blew again.
#2) Thinking it was next to the one I had already disconnected, I disconnected this coil and replaced the fuse. Upon startup, I had the same ol' thing: a couple of seconds of everything looking okay, and then the firing of a coil -- followed by a blown fuse.
#3) After the last blown fuse, I was able to discern that the coil I was hearing was this one -- which works with the three white drop targets (as seen in this photo). I disconnected the coil, replaced the fuse, and fired up the machine. As has been the case before, there was a couple of seconds of everything looking okay, followed by a blown fuse. The only difference was that there was no coil firing this time.
This is really bumming me out.
Steelhorse
New member
ah, man stay positive, I know that you will or someone will get Freddy working. I know you were raving about how the more you played it the more you were liking it and pinball in general. So I know you will get it. Good luck, hope it's fixed soon so you can do more video of it. Jeff
OP
OP
Fatsquatch
Active member
Thanks, Jeff.
I had expected these pins to need repairs at some point; I'm just bummed out that it happened only a few days after getting the thing. It's a really fun pin, and I miss playing it quite a bit. (Thank Jeebus the Frankenpin is still going.)
Also, we have our annual Halloween party coming up, and everybody was quite psyched about playing the new machines. I've just GOT to get it running before then.
tomdotcom
Active member
Could possibly be the bridge rectifier on that circuit.
I just had an issue on my WCS94 where the fuse would blow instantly on startup as well. It was the fuse for the flasher circuit. I bought a new bridge for that circuit, soldered it on, and all is well again. So that could be a possibility...
I feel your pain...I have a Skateball pin that I haven't even really played much at all yet cause of all its issues...luckily i have 5 others that do work haha
I just had an issue on my WCS94 where the fuse would blow instantly on startup as well. It was the fuse for the flasher circuit. I bought a new bridge for that circuit, soldered it on, and all is well again. So that could be a possibility...
I feel your pain...I have a Skateball pin that I haven't even really played much at all yet cause of all its issues...luckily i have 5 others that do work haha
tomdotcom
Active member
Did you read through Marvin's repair guides? They should be able to at least point you in the right direction...
tomdotcom
Active member
You should be able to disconnect the connectors that control the solenoids (if you think thats the problem) to the board..then turn it on. With the connectors off if the fuse still blows then you have a problem on the board. If it doesn't blow, then plug the connectors in one by one and see which one causes the fuse to blow.
I haven't looked at your schematic or anything..but that's how I resolved my WCS94 problem, also had some help from RGP folks/people here and on other pin forums. I thought I'd never figure it out...but I did.
I haven't looked at your schematic or anything..but that's how I resolved my WCS94 problem, also had some help from RGP folks/people here and on other pin forums. I thought I'd never figure it out...but I did.
OP
OP
Fatsquatch
Active member
I skimmed over the System 3 page, but didn't really get into it hard & heavy.
Later tonight (when I have some peace in the house to focus), I'll check it out more thoroughly.
Later tonight (when I have some peace in the house to focus), I'll check it out more thoroughly.
tomdotcom
Active member
quote that should help you (from RGP)
First, go buy a lot of fuses. Disconnect all the cables going to board in
question and power the machine up. If the fuse blows, you've at least isolated
the problem to the one board.
If the fuse DOES NOT blow, turn the game off and start plugging cables back in
one at a time, powering up after connecting a single cable. Eventually the
fuse should blow. Whatever the last cable you connected was is where the
problem lies. Find out what the cable feeds (GI lights, etc.)
First, go buy a lot of fuses.
Disconnect all the cables going to board in question and power the machine up. If the fuse blows, you've at least isolated
the problem to the one board.
If the fuse DOES NOT blow, turn the game off and start plugging cables back in
one at a time, powering up after connecting a single cable. Eventually the
fuse should blow. Whatever the last cable you connected was is where the
problem lies. Find out what the cable feeds (GI lights, etc.)
OP
OP
Fatsquatch
Active member
Following up on Tom's bridge rectifier tip, I gleaned the following from Marvin's System 3 page:
------------------------------------------------------
A12 Transformer Module Fuses:
• F6: 10 amp slo-blo (16 volt AC for the CPU controlled lamps and switches). Goes to the 20 volt DC bridge rectifier.
The Power Grid. There are three bridge rectifiers which supply:
• 12 volts DC (for the power supply and driver board) through a 10,000 mfd filter capacitor. The power supply ultimately turns this into regulated +5 volts, which feeds to all the circuit boards.
• 20 volts DC (for the driver board and DMD controller board) through a 33,000 mfd filter capacitor.
• 48 volts DC (no filter cap) for the solenoids.
------------------------------------------------------
So, if this avenue is worth going down, where should I get the appropriate replacement bridge rectifier, and should that big ol' cap be replaced as well?
------------------------------------------------------
A12 Transformer Module Fuses:
• F6: 10 amp slo-blo (16 volt AC for the CPU controlled lamps and switches). Goes to the 20 volt DC bridge rectifier.
The Power Grid. There are three bridge rectifiers which supply:
• 12 volts DC (for the power supply and driver board) through a 10,000 mfd filter capacitor. The power supply ultimately turns this into regulated +5 volts, which feeds to all the circuit boards.
• 20 volts DC (for the driver board and DMD controller board) through a 33,000 mfd filter capacitor.
• 48 volts DC (no filter cap) for the solenoids.
------------------------------------------------------
So, if this avenue is worth going down, where should I get the appropriate replacement bridge rectifier, and should that big ol' cap be replaced as well?
OP
OP
Fatsquatch
Active member
quote that should help you (from RGP)
First, go buy a lot of fuses.
question and power the machine up. If the fuse blows, you've at least isolated
the problem to the one board.
If the fuse DOES NOT blow, turn the game off and start plugging cables back in
one at a time, powering up after connecting a single cable. Eventually the
fuse should blow. Whatever the last cable you connected was is where the
problem lies. Find out what the cable feeds (GI lights, etc.)
This is referring to the boards in the backbox, yes?
tomdotcom
Active member
yes..the board on which your fuse is blowing most likely..
