Segagee
New member
Found cause of vertical collapse on 20EZ, where to go from here?
Posted about a cap kit gone wrong a few weeks ago on my Sanyo 20EZ, turned it on to get a nice centered white line staring me in the face. Cables, switches, pots, and everything seemed to be fine. Got around to removing the board tonight again, and to my dismay found a pretty scorched up C408 pad/trace. To my knowledge a bad cap at this location can cause a vertical failure, so I have a few questions as where I should go from here.
1. I tried soldering a new cap at C408 a few times before reporting here, but keep coming up with cold joints. This was also occurring when I attempted to install the cap kit. This is the only cap location I have had this problem with, is it because the board is burnt at this location? I'm holding off on trying again because I do not want to scorch the board anymore.
2. If simply soldering a new cap is out of the question, I'm thinking this may have to be repaired (if "repairing" is possible) with either jumper/trace wires, so any tidbits on this subject would be of help.
3. Is it safe/smart to test the monitor outside of the cabinet?
3. See pics, and thanks for any and all input.
Posted about a cap kit gone wrong a few weeks ago on my Sanyo 20EZ, turned it on to get a nice centered white line staring me in the face. Cables, switches, pots, and everything seemed to be fine. Got around to removing the board tonight again, and to my dismay found a pretty scorched up C408 pad/trace. To my knowledge a bad cap at this location can cause a vertical failure, so I have a few questions as where I should go from here.
1. I tried soldering a new cap at C408 a few times before reporting here, but keep coming up with cold joints. This was also occurring when I attempted to install the cap kit. This is the only cap location I have had this problem with, is it because the board is burnt at this location? I'm holding off on trying again because I do not want to scorch the board anymore.
2. If simply soldering a new cap is out of the question, I'm thinking this may have to be repaired (if "repairing" is possible) with either jumper/trace wires, so any tidbits on this subject would be of help.
3. Is it safe/smart to test the monitor outside of the cabinet?
3. See pics, and thanks for any and all input.

