**Found** 2 atari lighted switches

Would these due?
 

Attachments

  • 2017-03-01 17.46.18.jpg
    2017-03-01 17.46.18.jpg
    156.7 KB · Views: 43
FYI, those are short cones.

Also, one switch is the Cherry brand, and the other is a Licon. The Licons are more 'clicky' than the Cherry ones, so they feel different.
 
FYI, those are short cones.

Also, one switch is the Cherry brand, and the other is a Licon. The Licons are more 'clicky' than the Cherry ones, so they feel different.

Also, one's metal and one's plastic. I have 2 with black plastic and 1 with the metal. This is surplus from a junked asteroids.. sad...
 
What's wrong with Andy's? :confused:

Do you want original cones or would black anodized aluminium cones satisfiy you as well :)

What is the price these are going for at the moment?

They were more than I was looking to spend.

Either is fine.

Looking at completed ebay auctions, it looks like about $40/pair tested working.
 
There is one running atm. Low cones, though. The cones don't look original to me. I've never seen them with this......don't know how you would call it :rolleyes:
And the surface seems different from the ones I know.
 

Attachments

  • atari_cones.jpg
    atari_cones.jpg
    74.9 KB · Views: 26
There is one running atm. Low cones, though. The cones don't look original to me. I've never seen them with this......don't know how you would call it :rolleyes:
And the surface seems different from the ones I know.



The LEDs in those ebay ones (and the others from that seller) are suspiciously bright. It looks like someone replaced the LEDs with ones that are more powerful, and the heat generated started to melt the cones.

Original buttons have a relatively faint glow, as the LEDs are fairly low power.
 
The LEDs in those ebay ones (and the others from that seller) are suspiciously bright. It looks like someone replaced the LEDs with ones that are more powerful, and the heat generated started to melt the cones.

Original buttons have a relatively faint glow, as the LEDs are fairly low power.

Missing in-line bias/limiting resistor - so looks brighter than when it would be installed in a game (or add extra in-line resistor yourself to "dim" the LED).

BTW, cones are reproduced - that's a good thing for us all.
Too bad the lighted cherry switches are not repro'd. :(
 
BTW, I looked at my Q schematic just to verify.
The PL1/PL2 cone buttons are driven by 5V logic and thru a 220R resistor.
(Other Atari boards do the same/similar with 220R or 100R).

I'm sure that Ebay auction, the seller is just biasing the LED directly.
I don't believe the Cherry has integrated bias resistor or not. I'm guessing "not".
 
BTW, I looked at my Q schematic just to verify.
The PL1/PL2 cone buttons are driven by 5V logic and thru a 220R resistor.
(Other Atari boards do the same/similar with 220R or 100R).

I'm sure that Ebay auction, the seller is just biasing the LED directly.
I don't believe the Cherry has integrated bias resistor or not. I'm guessing "not".



No, they don't include the resistor.

However I think if you just hooked them to 5V directly, the LEDs would just blow. I don't think you can make original LEDs look that bright, even with no resistor.

Perhaps you should take one of your original buttons and try it. :cool:
 
No, they don't include the resistor.

However I think if you just hooked them to 5V directly, the LEDs would just blow. I don't think you can make original LEDs look that bright, even with no resistor.

Perhaps you should take one of your original buttons and try it. :cool:

LEDs can be biased near their Vf point without a resistor. But in any application, no one would do this.

If the LED has a max Ibias of 25-50mA, and you use a current limited source, then no damage to the device. But in any application, it's easier to use a resistor as the limiting element. (Example, to test an LED, use the DIODE setting on a DVM and it will provide enough limited bias to light up the LED; good to validate which pin is Anode or Cathode, and to indicate that the LED is good and lights up).

LEDs can be biased with DC or with a PWM technique. The latter technique can reduce stress to the device. But in most applications, with DC or PWM, a resistor is still used (as it takes up little space, likely does not dissipate any power, is a good for safety protection and is cheap).

Anyway, if an LED is too bright, just reduce the bias current by using a larger resistor in-series.

I'd still like to see these cherry switches repro'd. I looked into that a few years ago and came up short. :(
 
LEDs can be biased near their Vf point without a resistor. But in any application, no one would do this.

If the LED has a max Ibias of 25-50mA, and you use a current limited source, then no damage to the device. But in any application, it's easier to use a resistor as the limiting element. (Example, to test an LED, use the DIODE setting on a DVM and it will provide enough limited bias to light up the LED; good to validate which pin is Anode or Cathode, and to indicate that the LED is good and lights up).

LEDs can be biased with DC or with a PWM technique. The latter technique can reduce stress to the device. But in most applications, with DC or PWM, a resistor is still used (as it takes up little space, likely does not dissipate any power, is a good for safety protection and is cheap).

Anyway, if an LED is too bright, just reduce the bias current by using a larger resistor in-series.




I'm not sure what any of this has to do with what I said.
 
I didn't realise how pricey these things were, looks like I'll be paying more for these buttons than the CP or thruster! :D
 
Back
Top Bottom