For the longest time, I just didn't understand the ST-V duarmold hate. Now, I get it.

roothorick

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For the longest time, I just didn't understand the ST-V duarmold hate. Now, I get it.

For months I wanted to track down an ST-V duramold cabinet. It just looks cool, and I like the ST-V system. People consistently told me they're shitty cabinets and I don't really want one. But I didn't listen. I persevered, and back in December, I took one home for a whopping thirty-five bucks.

So, how does one get at the monitor in this guy? Does the top come off? Hah, no, the back half is one giant piece. Maybe the front comes off and the monitor is on a slide? Well, the huge bezel pops right off with six very, VERY stubborn screws (getting them out involved using the cabinet's own weight as leverage against the screwdriver), but the monitor frame is screwed right onto the duramold. So there's a back panel then, right? Well.... yes. It's a whopping 14 inches wide and 5 inches high. Or so. I'm being generous in my estimation.

So how do you get the chassis out? You know, I'm not entirely sure, but I do know it involves removing the anode cap from such a position that you can't actually see it. I'm strongly debating just pulling the whole monitor out, tube, frame and all -- if I take the CP off it should be way easier.

Getting the machine into the house was another storied tale. That big metal plate only JUST fit through the door. What have I gotten myself into?
 
I hear you, but it is not that hard, just worse than it should be. I've had chassis out, as well as the whole monitor. Not simple.
Having said that. It is super cool to look at, pretty good to play. I recently got the Puyo Puyo Sun cart working. So fun for 2 players. I recommend it highly. Slightly disturbing cinematic when you beat it. You gotta love the Japanese.
I would buy Radiant Silvergun if the cart didn't cost 6 times as much as my whole cab.
Jayme
 
I managed to pull the whole monitor. Aside from a superfluous ground wire hanging on for dear life, that's the easiest monitor pull I've ever done. Now that I know, I'm not going to EVER pull just the chassis on this one. Flyback adjustments? WHERE'S MY SOCKET SET.

Speaking of chassis... wiring looks factory, no iso present. It's just a deflection board and remote board, and looks rather similar in layout to a U3000 except with an integrated switcher instead of the sideboard. It's definitely a Wells. The TUBE is a Wells. Not shitting, the tube sticker proudly boasts "WGEC". Never seen that before. Currently no signs of life, but the tube has some burn that suggests vertical collapse. Off to the monitor ID pages I go!

Aaaaand I'm back already. The answer? K7400. Oh joy...

To the gurus: Is this a "capkit first, ask questions later" kind of monitor? It doesn't seem all that old.
 
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Last check-in of the night.

When I first turn it on I hear a rattle that sounds like degaussing. If I turn it off, wait a few seconds, and try again, the buzz isn't there. It's not making any other noises -- no ticking like you mentioned, just nothing.

A cap near the flyback went poof at some point, and was replaced. The previous guy didn't bother to clean the crap off the board, so I can't read the number. If it's important I'll get to scraping. Also, R727 looks visibly burnt, and is reading open. Schematic shows R727 as part of the shutdown circuit -- I think I found why it's not starting.

There was nothing holding the board in place. They powered it up at the auction like that :eek: poor thing.

-E- It just dawned on me... this is a 25". My Neo Geo is a 25", bad tube (most likely) but the chassis is probably fine. I'm gonna have to do some investigating with the ol' multimeter; I might be able to get this guy up and running by Monday...
 
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