Follow up: Aoyue 474A+ Desoldering Station

metahugh

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I wanted to post a follow up regarding my experiences with the Aoyue 474A+ desoldering station. My last post I mentioned that I purchased this to make my life easier when working on boards. Previously I had been using a Soldapullt and desoldering braid as my methods of desoldering. It just wasn't cutting it; both work great for someone getting into the hobby but if you are serious about working on your own boards you need a dedicated unit made for desoldering. I ordered this station a few weeks ago and I have had some time to put it through its paces.

Overall I am very happy with the 474A+. Last night I put it through a torture test; removing the 40 pin interconnect on a System 6 CPU and driver board! Everyone dreads removing this connector it seems. So with this in mind I decided to tackle the CPU board first. I have the dial on the unit set to roughly 65% of the dial's movement. I went from pin to pin and had no issues desolderingevery hole including the outer holes. With a slight push they came right out. So far so good, next up the driver board.

The 474A+ worked excellent on every pin minus the outside pins which I expected. Pins 1, 2, 39 and 40 were not being desoldered without a fight! With the dial set to 65% the 474A+ just didn't have the juice to melt the solder. Since these pins are on the ground plane of the board I knew they would be trouble since they just suck up the heat and keep on trucking. No big deal I still have another 35% travel left I thought, so I cranked it up to 75%... still not doing it. I cranked it up all the way and believe it or not I was still having issues! Here is where I can find one fault with this station; with the heat cranked up past 90% you can feel a lot of heat coming from the plastic sections of the gun itself. Its hot enough that it is not comfortable to use and really doesn't seem safe. Here is where a bit of technique comes into play.

I took my Weller WESD51 and cranked it up to 750 degrees. I flowed some new solder onto those stubborn pins, putting much more than would be there under normal circumstances just to make sure that I could sap a lot of heat into the joints. Then I turned the 474A+ back down to 65% and started desoldering. This did the trick! The extra, new solder helped get the join hot enough that it desoldered immediately. I sucked up the molten solder and the connector dropped right out! YAY! So this goes to show that even with a desoldering station you still have to have a bit of know how.

Another interesting thing to note, after removing that much solder about halfway through the gun was making a kind of wheezing sound. The reason is further back into the tip of the gun some solder was stuck and the air being sucked into the nozzle was making that weird sound. Every now and then you need to take the tip cleaning tool and push any latent solder into the collection tube. This is a minor inconvenience but worth noting. I thought I remembered from another post someone mentioning that they liked the older, short tips better and now I understand why. This tool is not for the lazy. You need to clean the tip after each use and make sure to check the collection tube for old solder and clean it out. I haven't had this unit for that long but as with anything preventive maintenance is never a bad thing.

So in summary I am very happy with my Aoyue 474A+. It has done an excellent job for me. I have no problems recommending this to anyone that wants a cheap desoldering station as part of their tool set.
 
Cool! Thanks for sharing that info. I'm going to be shopping around for a *new* desoldering station soon since the old Ungar is getting tired.

Some good tips about getting the solder hot enough. One other I can add is sometimes it helps to use both the desoldering tip and the soldering iron together to get things hot enough. Just need to be careful not to singe the substrate on the board.
 
Thanks to your post I bought the Aoyue Rework Station - http://store.sra-solder.com/product.php/6268/26
and I'm very happy with it. Made short work of removing capacitors and ICs.

I didn't noticed the plastic of the desoldering gun getting too hot.

Good to know! I could feel heat radiating from below the length of the gun where the heating element is. This is with it cranked up as high as it could go though and I have found there is no need to get the tip that hot.
 
Yeah, the rework station is awesome. When you remove ICs with the desoldering gun sometimes the top of the IC is left with trails of solder making the IC still cling to the circuit board. Then I would use the heat gun to blast all these trails at the same time so I can lift up the bad IC. - But I haven't done that yet but that's why I got one with the heat gun too.
 
Yeah, the rework station is awesome. When you remove ICs with the desoldering gun sometimes the top of the IC is left with trails of solder making the IC still cling to the circuit board. Then I would use the heat gun to blast all these trails at the same time so I can lift up the bad IC. - But I haven't done that yet but that's why I got one with the heat gun too.

Thank you. I appreciate it.
 
Here is where I can find one fault with this station; with the heat cranked up past 90% you can feel a lot of heat coming from the plastic sections of the gun itself. Its hot enough that it is not comfortable to use and really doesn't seem safe.

For comparison the Hakko 807 handpiece also gets pretty damn hot if you're doing a long run of de-soldering. Not burn-the-skin hot but uncomfortable to hold kind of hot. I should go measure the temperature at 75% as I can't remember what it was anymore, but right around 400C as I have a metric temp sensor ;)

But it sounds like it was a successful purchase !

A trick I use is to try and not touch the pad, or at least put as absolutely minimum pressure on it as possible, and to sit the nozzle on the leg of just the IC and the solder. This is especially true when I'm doing Midway boards, which seem very temperature sensitive !

When the solder melts I move the leg a little to loosen and then hit the trigger & soon as the solder is pulled releasing the vacuum trigger. I can get IC's to literally drop out of the board this way ;)

- James
 
I got the Blackjack...it seems to work really well the several times I've used it. And yeah, on the stubborn pins, I have my regular iron handy to add some fresh solder, as well as melt the solder better, then use the vacuum to suck it up (similar to using a soldapult, except they're both heating, and you don't have to keep reloading).

And yeah, like jrok said, I float the tip in the solder, wiggling the leg as I vacuum... that seems to get the solder out really well, as well as keeping the leg from getting stuck against a wall.

DogP
 
In your other post, someone mention having a BlackJack Solderwerks desoldering station. I just bought one and got it today. Haven't used it yet, but they give a free gift with purchase, so I picked up a second DMM....

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/9750

Please post your experience with the desoldering station, as I'm considering that one myself after trying the big red Radio Shack bulb, the blue and silver Bob Roberts Soldapult, and then the MPJA heated Soldapult, all of which just didn't cut it.

The MPJA heated soldapult burned through a tip in less than 4 hours of use total over a year. So I'm concerned with how fast these $7 a pop tips might be burned thru.


Also interested in your thoughts on the best "freebee" -- For me it was between the DMM and the DMM in-a-probe. I own a boatload of the $2 Harbor Freight DMM's and a nicer 15 year old one from Home Depot, then a nice auto-ranging Craftsman, so I don't really need another plain DMM.
 
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Dog-P has it and has liked it so far.

The DMM is ok, but when doing a continuity test, there is about a one second lag between touching the leads together and getting the beep. Dunno if that speaks to the quality of the electronics on the inside. I tried it with higher-quality leads from my normal meter, but got the same result. I'll probably take it to work and use it there and leave my good one at home....
 
As for solder left on the top part of the ic, you need to leave the gun on there just a little longer to heat all the way. I find that if you place the board on edge so you can see the top, you can see when the solder melts thoroughly. As long as the pump is pulling good strong vacuum you should remove practically all the solder. You may still have to push the pins with a wooden stick, or fingers to break them free from the vias. Most times when I'm desoldering a part where the legs aren't bent, the part just falls out when done. Dunno if that's one of the big differences between the weller and the Aoyue or not. The weller pulls about -.7 bar, that's roughly 18-20 inches Hg
 
As for solder left on the top part of the ic, you need to leave the gun on there just a little longer to heat all the way. I find that if you place the board on edge so you can see the top, you can see when the solder melts thoroughly. As long as the pump is pulling good strong vacuum you should remove practically all the solder. You may still have to push the pins with a wooden stick, or fingers to break them free from the vias. Most times when I'm desoldering a part where the legs aren't bent, the part just falls out when done. Dunno if that's one of the big differences between the weller and the Aoyue or not. The weller pulls about -.7 bar, that's roughly 18-20 inches Hg

I just replaced ALL of the headers on my System 6 driver board last night and the majority of them just fell out after being desoldered.

I have definitely noticed on the smaller chips some come out immediately and others you just have to break the IC leg off the edge of the through hole. There is so little solder left it comes off very easily.

I love this thing so much I am doing preventative maintenance with it... for example I am socketing chips that could break in the future, for example the 6821 PIAs on Williams pinball Driver boards. I might as well while I am giving the boards an overhaul.
 
Is there a more beautiful site at 1:21am??

CIMG0195-1024x768.jpg
 
I also have an earlier version of this station, the 474 which I purchased from Circuit Specialists. I am fairly well pleased with the station. I highly recommend that you purchase an additional couple of spring filters, sponge filters and some tips of different sizes. I just ordered replacement parts for my unit from SRA and highly recommend them as they are very informed and knowledgable. Be sure to dampen the sponge filter before starting to desolder. Use the silicone grease around the o-rings on the tube to keep the vacuum high. Don't run the unit on high or you will burn the tips. Be careful not to drop the gun as it has a ceramic heating element and it will crack.

Other than those hints/tips, it is indeed a timesaver and will make a cap kit a breeze. Desoldering ICs are also speedy and clean.
 
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