fly back question

How about a whining flyback? Any remedy for that short of ear plugs or maybe lining my Sea Wolf cabinet with sound absorbing material?
 
How about a whining flyback? Any remedy for that short of ear plugs or maybe lining my Sea Wolf cabinet with sound absorbing material?

Assuming the chassis is working correctly, try tinkering with the width and H-hold adjustments if it has them to move the frequency around a bit. You can sometimes get it outside or hearing range.
 
How about a whining flyback? Any remedy for that short of ear plugs or maybe lining my Sea Wolf cabinet with sound absorbing material?
that will have more to do with the ferrite core. the Polo I got at home did it pretty bad last year, it's tolerable now. unless I did what people suggest and jam toothpicks in the top, but I don't think I did that. lol
 
that will have more to do with the ferrite core. the Polo I got at home did it pretty bad last year, it's tolerable now. unless I did what people suggest and jam toothpicks in the top, but I don't think I did that. lol

You might not want to jam tinder into something that starts to arc when it fails.
 
You might not want to jam tinder into something that starts to arc when it fails.
Toothpicks are non-conductive, and have little friable mass to burn.

Most of the time, the lightning shoots out the sides of a flyback at the weak points, which would be the bends in the cover.

The toothpicks help quiet down the resonance. It's a reasonable option.

And remember, the flyback is coated with plastic, which burns. So it really doesn't matter, does it?
 
Toothpicks are non-conductive, and have little friable mass to burn.

Most of the time, the lightning shoots out the sides of a flyback at the weak points, which would be the bends in the cover.

The toothpicks help quiet down the resonance. It's a reasonable option.

And remember, the flyback is coated with plastic, which burns. So it really doesn't matter, does it?

Just a joke, but reading it again, I see how it could be taken seriously without an emoji.

I was actually considering it, but not sure where they would go on this. I appreciate the suggestion about playing with the H/V adjustments. If I can't move it out of the audible range, even just nudging it off a resonant frequency would dampen it a little.

1750871553612.png
 
Just a joke, but reading it again, I see how it could be taken seriously without an emoji.

I was actually considering it, but not sure where they would go on this. I appreciate the suggestion about playing with the H/V adjustments. If I can't move it out of the audible range, even just nudging it off a resonant frequency would dampen it a little.

View attachment 829014
I'd cut a wedge from rubber or plastic. Insert it between the top bar (not the bottom where the fine wires are!) just enough to make a little contact.

I have some leftover plastic trim - want me to cut you one and send it to you?
 
I'd cut a wedge from rubber or plastic. Insert it between the top bar (not the bottom where the fine wires are!) just enough to make a little contact.

I have some leftover plastic trim - want me to cut you one and send it to you?

Very much appreciated! I tend to hoard all kinds of things, so I likely have some different materials to try. If I don't find anything that works, I might take you up on it. Thanks again!
 
first thanks for the answers and advice, so i did my experiment, i took the brand new fly back i ordered for my other k7900 and put it on a 25inch k7000, which didnt help the brightness/dim picture, but i ttook the one i removed and put it on the k7900 and now the image is super dim and darkk,

also i think its a replacement as it has a date code of may 28th 2011 on it, so i tthink the 25inch had a failing fly back and a very tired tube, now i plan to swap them again and see the difference
 
poor focus and/or screen adjustments, focus and/or screen drift on their own, flyback shoots lightning like Emperor Palpatine. you'll have to find holes, or the anode stem can break. hence why I remove flybacks when working on monitors.

or the flyback has voltage taps crap out. no high voltage. etc.
> flyback shoots lightning like Emperor Palpatine.

Bahahaha!
 
poor focus and/or screen adjustments, focus and/or screen drift on their own, flyback shoots lightning like Emperor Palpatine. you'll have to find holes, or the anode stem can break. hence why I remove flybacks when working on monitors.

or the flyback has voltage taps crap out. no high voltage. etc.
Lmao flyback shoots lighting like Emperor Palpatine. Im stealing that one.
 
first thanks for the answers and advice, so i did my experiment, i took the brand new fly back i ordered for my other k7900 and put it on a 25inch k7000, which didnt help the brightness/dim picture, but i ttook the one i removed and put it on the k7900 and now the image is super dim and darkk,

also i think its a replacement as it has a date code of may 28th 2011 on it, so i tthink the 25inch had a failing fly back and a very tired tube, now i plan to swap them again and see the difference
A single bad cap can cause what you would think is a dying/dead tube as the symptom of having a weak, faded picture, or even just someone that dosent know how to properly adjust a chassis. Dead tube is almost always the least likely scenario.

Neo tecs for one are more common to have bad flybacks and what happens is you will adjust it looks great leave it running come back and hour its super dark or super bright.
However bad focus wire (shity or half ass connection) to the neckboard can cause that also.
 
A single bad cap can cause what you would think is a dying/dead tube as the symptom of having a weak, faded picture, or even just someone that dosent know how to properly adjust a chassis. Dead tube is almost always the least likely scenario.

Neo tecs for one are more common to have bad flybacks and what happens is you will adjust it looks great leave it running come back and hour its super dark or super bright.
However bad focus wire (shity or half ass connection) to the neckboard can cause that also.
trust me its the tube, my bk 470 even said so plus i did a full kit on the chassis so i know for a fact its not cap related
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned here, and felt the need to call out, is this: replacement flybacks, like car parts and everything else today, are not made with the same the earlier ones were. That said, if you swap out an older, working part for something just for the sake of "everything's new", you may have just made things worse..

That said, check seller feedback before just grabbing a new fly at the cheapest source. You really do "get what you pay for" in this hobby.
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned here, and felt the need to call out, is this: replacement flybacks, like car parts and everything else today, are not made with the same the earlier ones were. That said, if you swap out an older, working part for something just for the sake of "everything's new", you may have just made things worse..

That said, check seller feedback before just grabbing a new fly at the cheapest source. You really do "get what you pay for" in this hobby.
i only buy parts from one place and thats apar and only once did i get a kit some where else and that was only because apar didnt have it.
 
i only buy parts from one place and thats apar and only once did i get a kit some where else and that was only because apar didnt have it.
i am curious which kit didn't we have that some other place had??
 
I'm running a GO7 CBO that had all original parts for my own experimental educational proposes .First thing that went by by ,the flyback . I could hear it ticking and whining it before it quit and took out 901 with it .
 
Back
Top Bottom