Flash Gordon Porn!

Zack5959

New member
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
457
Reaction score
2
Location
Indiana
Hey kids, im doing what everyone says is a pinball resto sin. ....but I don't care.
I spent 2 hours with a graphic designer yesterday and worked over a playfield scan I found on the interwebs. It was not scaled correctly but a little time and love produced a badass overlay im gonna use to fix my game.
Its gonna be tricky cutting out the holes and adhering it, but im ready. I will be clearcoating everything as a final step. Enjoy....

2011-01-28_15-00-42_476.jpg


And btw... after mine is done and turns out good, these will be available to everyone.
 
Last edited:
Umm since I'm a pin newb...why is this repro overlay playfield considered a sin by some?
 
Umm since I'm a pin newb...why is this repro overlay playfield considered a sin by some?

From what I've gathered its not the 'right' way to fix a playfield. An overlay will never look as good as paint, but I can buy another pinball machine with the money I save using this....vs a retro playfield
 
From what I've gathered its not the 'right' way to fix a playfield. An overlay will never look as good as paint, but I can buy another pinball machine with the money I save using this....vs a retro playfield

Bah. I wouldn't feel like it's not the "right" way. Face it, if you send it off to be restored and clear coated you "could" end up tapping the $500 range (depending how bad the original is) and what is that machine worth? Average $400-$700? Unless the machine is a holy grail for you it doesn't make sense to go through a professional pf restoration. Ultimately between not being cost effective and lack of repro's is what sends these machines to an early grave.

MOST people that use an overlay will cut off the wood grain part of the decal and let the real pf wood show. Good luck! I'd love to see pics of it when it's done.
 
Pinball overlays usually do not hold up, even when clear coated.

I have tried to clear coat overlays and did have some success. The key to make a good surface for the clear to stick to (adhesion). Do not just clear coat on top of the new overlay without doing prep to it first. Also do not put the overlay on just the bare wood.

There are two main problems with overlays. 1. Getting the overlay to stick to the wood surface and never have it lose adhesion and 2. Getting the clear coat to stick to the overlay and never lose adhesion. When you assemble this playfield the post and screws will tend to twist the overlay and you will lose adhesion to the wood.

The best way to fix a Flash Gordon playfield is to airbrush it. Or just wait until CPR makes the new ones soon.

Here is a Flash Gordon playfield that I restored a few years ago. No stickers or overlays where used to fix the below playfield.

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Restorations_Examples/Pages/hsa8.html
 
Pinball overlays usually do not hold up, even when clear coated.

I have tried to clear coat overlays and did have some success. The key to make a good surface for the clear to stick to (adhesion). Do not just clear coat on top of the new overlay without doing prep to it first. Also do not put the overlay on just the bare wood.

There are two main problems with overlays. 1. Getting the overlay to stick to the wood surface and never have it lose adhesion and 2. Getting the clear coat to stick to the overlay and never lose adhesion. When you assemble this playfield the post and screws will tend to twist the overlay and you will lose adhesion to the wood.

The best way to fix a Flash Gordon playfield is to airbrush it. Or just wait until CPR makes the new ones soon.

Here is a Flash Gordon playfield that I restored a few years ago. No stickers or overlays where used to fix the below playfield.

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Restorations_Examples/Pages/hsa8.html


Nice work! On terms of flash gordons...you started with a really nice unit. Had mine been that nice I too would have painted it.
I am fully versed in the prep needed to make the overlay stick..
and the clear.
I will post my progress when I dive in.
 
That Flash Gordon was not that nice. It was a complete repaint. Every area had to be masked off and airbrushed.

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Restorations_Examples/Pages/hsa8.html#0

______________________________________________________________________

OR get on the CPR pre-order list for FLASH GORDON, $599 for both playfields.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.

I would highly recommend not installing an overlay, unless you plan on just using it for display only (non-playing).

And if I may ask, how much did it cost your client for that service?
 
That Flash Gordon was not that nice. It was a complete repaint. Every area had to be masked off and airbrushed.

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Restorations_Examples/Pages/hsa8.html#0

______________________________________________________________________

OR get on the CPR pre-order list for FLASH GORDON, $599 for both playfields.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.

I would highly recommend not installing an overlay, unless you plan on just using it for display only (non-playing).


On mine the whole damn castle in the second circle is gone and painted solid red. I'm an artist but really don't have 3 years to try to duplicate that picture! If I had that playfield you worked on I could easily fix it being (other than Mings head) was mostly solid colors with low detail areas.

Just curious also, how much did you charge the client for all that touchup? Nice job by the way! :)
 
I would definitely wait for the CPR playfields. $599 is a good price. I'm sure the overlay will look great when finished. After 500 games will be a totally different story.

Just my $.02.
 
I would definitely wait for the CPR playfields. $599 is a good price. I'm sure the overlay will look great when finished. After 500 games will be a totally different story.

Just my $.02.

Please elaborate!

I will be automotive Clearcoating this in case you didnt read that.
 
Last edited:
I would just Echo what Brian said (hsapinball). My biggest concern would be with the clear sticking to the overlay.

Hell, I'd be worried about the clear "eating" the overlay:eek:.....depending on what kind of clear is used (and what the overlay is made of).

Edward
 
Here is the main problem. You are not dealing with just 2 surfaces, you now have three surfaces (layers) to deal with. You have the bottom layer (wood), then the overlay (surface #2) and then your adding a clear coat (surface #3).

Picture this: You have a post on the playfield. The ball hits these post. The post will flex the overlay. The overlay will lost it's bonding surface with the wood. Usually (if prepped correctly) the clear coat is flexible and will flex with the overlay. If the overlay is not prepped correctly the clear coat will flake off the overlay but usually the main problem is the overlay will pull up from the wood surface.

What happens is the overlay looks like it is bubbling and now the ball does not roll smoothly on these bubbles. These bubbles (or lack of adhesion) will grow and your overlay will have these all over it.

Your overlay'ed playfield will look good at first but after some plays YOU will have problems.

Don't waste your time with overlays. Either have your playfield restored correctly or wait for the CPR playfields to come out.
 
The clear can react with the print on the overlay (if just printed on a printer, non silk screened). The silk screened overlays usually do not have a problem being clear coated.

You can not just clear coat on the overlays without prep first. You MUST have a good bonding surface. Clear does not stick to a shinny surface. You must ruff it up for the clear to bite into it. You can also use a spray adhesion promoter but these will usually react with print on the overlays.
 
The clear can react with the print on the overlay (if just printed on a printer, non silk screened). The silk screened overlays usually do not have a problem being clear coated.

You can not just clear coat on the overlays without prep first. You MUST have a good bonding surface. Clear does not stick to a shinny surface. You must ruff it up for the clear to bite into it. You can also use a spray adhesion promoter but these will usually react with print on the overlays.

I read one of your older posts on this topic and read you have a 'secret' method of making all this work.
Care to share it?
 
Back
Top Bottom