Fixing up, and painting a trashed cabinet

racerx1690

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I haven't posted any helper stuff lately, so I took pictures while I was redoing a cabinet. Hopefully this will help some of you that have never done this stuff before. Or, maybe show some of you a better way.

Here is how to fix those really torn up cabinets, and make them look good again. You can repaint it to original specs, or do what I did. I have had this cabinet for quite a while, and ended up turning it into a Multicade cabinet. It was a "laundromat" game, and they cut a big rectangular hole in the front of it, and a bunch of smaller round holes on the sides for a different coin mech. This is how I got it. It also had engraved initials all over it too.



First, you get a dowel rod that is the same diameter as the small holes, cut them to the same width as your cabinet walls, and put them in with some gorilla glue on them. This also works for those holes in the front of your games they made for the lock bars.




After the glue has dried, you sand the area where the holes are with rough grit (60-80) sand paper to give the wood filler something to hold on to, and to sand down the dowels, if they are sticking out too far.




Clean the area with compressed air, or wipe it with a clean rag, or paper towel, then apply the wood filler. Make sure you get it into every little nook, and cranny, and leave a little excess filler on top to be sanded down.



While the filler on the sides was drying I started on the big hole in the front of the game. I cut out a peice of matching wood of the same thickness, and wedged it in place. I then drilled four countersunk holes (2 on each side), to hold the peice in place, and deep enough to hide the screws. Make sure you have the new peice of wood flush with the front of the game, or it is going to be a pain to fill, and sand smooth.



You then do the same thing with the wood filler, making sure to fill in every little space liberally.



When all of the glue, and wood filler has dried, you sand the whole machine down with 60-80 grit sand paper to smooth out the filler, and to blend out the rest of the cabinet/hide scratches. (Unless you are just fixing the bad area only) Then to smooth it out more, and blend all of the high, and low spots better, you sand the whole cabinet down with 100-150 grit sand paper.




If you don't have much paint to cover the game with, you use Kilz primer paint for the first (and maybe the second) coat. After that had thoroughly dried, then you use the regular paint. Or, if you have a lot of paint (like I did), you just put on a couple of really thick coats of color on it, and call it a day.





If any of you guys ever have any questions about woodworking, just let me know.
My next little helper thread will be on rebuilding your coin doors.
 
Did you roll that black paint? The sheen looks awfully consistent and smooth, in fact it looks sort of like black vinyl siding - good paint job man. You should explain your painting method for us novices.
 
He likely used a fine foam roller or spray painted it. I do both depends on the surface you sre covering. I spray inside corners and the inside of the cab (if I am painting it at all it would be for asthetic reasons)

I use a foam roller on all flat surfaces and outside corners. The trick is to apply light and use many coats or apply thick and sand with 220 lightly between a couple thick coats.

I use satin finish, so my cabs dont look like glass, but the definitely feel like glass.
 
The paint is semigloss black, and I rolled it on. I treat it like when I paint a room in house. First you use a brush to get all of the corners, and hard to reach areas. Then you use the roller to cover the rest. I bought a cheap roller kit, with the tray, and a couple of paint brushes (one foam, one bristle) at Lowes. It came with a big roller, and a small roller also. When you use a roller, never push down hard, or leave lines of paint from the edges of the roller.
 
When you do the thread about rebuilding coin doors, are you going to show one brand/model or are you going to to several brands?
 
I am going to be doing a Midway coin door, but the same processes can be used for any metal surface. It will be more of a corrosion control, and painting lesson. If you have specific questions about a part, then I will cover it.
 
Midway doors are hard to find new parts for. If you do a write up on these doors, please include some parts sources in it too.
 
That paint is exactly why I choose to spray
smile.gif
You don't get that orange peeling or the fuzzies from the roller that you see in the pix.
 
The fuzzies are sawdust from the other cabinet I was working on, and the textured look it has further hides imperfections. I have a sprayer, and it is more of a toy in my opinion. Plus the overspray/waste is not worth the trouble.
 
Since it is build Multicades for Christmas sales time, I figured I would post on this again, so it would come up top for new guys to see. (that haven't seen it before) I still am going to do the control panel how to, and am going to post on cabinet lighting. (if it works)
 
Midway is the easiest. I will have a few different types, since I am now servicing a large gameroom, and am fighting an uphill battle, trying to make these games presentable, and operational/reliable.
 
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