Fixing paint runs

Phetishboy

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Easiest, most non-threatening way? Razor blade, then sanding block then steel wool? I fixed most of them with this method, but I was going to shoot another coat after the initial fixes so it was no biggie. Now I am done painting, but need to remove some drip lines at the bottom of the cab, about an inch up from the bottom edge. Recommendations?
 
I would love to know how the pros do this too. I've always just used a bit of sandpaper and then another coat.
 
I would love to know how the pros do this too.

I may be wrong but I'm guessing the pros can get a flawless finish where there are no drip lines or runs to begin with. Therefore there would be no need to fix any. My best guess is that a fix for the drip followed by another coat of paint is the answer. Only other thing I can think of is to fix the area as phet mentioned then touch up the area and after dry buff with a rubbing compound. Not sure if that would do the trick but it may since rubbing compound is very slightly abrasive and usually takes off some paint in the process. Since the touch up is the same paint as the rest of the cab it may blend well. not sure.
 
Easiest, most non-threatening way? Razor blade, then sanding block then steel wool? I fixed most of them with this method, but I was going to shoot another coat after the initial fixes so it was no biggie. Now I am done painting, but need to remove some drip lines at the bottom of the cab, about an inch up from the bottom edge. Recommendations?

Don't put on as much paint at one time?
 
razor blade with masking tape on both of the side edges leaving a small area of exposed blade in the center.... atleast that's how we do it on cars...

i don't think there's a way around repainting unless it's getting clear coated/covered with vinyl.
 
Fixed it. That's one advantage of using off-the shelf colors. I happened to have a spray can of this exact same paint on the shelf. I used the razor trick to shave the drip heads, used steel wool and mineral spirits to polish/blend the repairs, then hit the bottom area with 3 light coats of Sunburst yellow from the spay can. Barring examining it under a microscope, I can't really see the transition line as I feathered the edge up about 1-2 inches above the repairs. Woo-hoo!! Saved me another 48 hours of screwing around with the HVLP set-up which was already cleaned and put away. Once the stenciled layers are in place and the whole cab gets a clear coat and polish, you'll never know any better.
 
Where is the run? On the side of the cabinet? If I am painting with a roller, I lay the cabinet on its side and tape around the edge. It is really hard to get a run on a flat surface.

If you are using a sprayer, then it is hard to paint a surface that is parallel to the ground and you are better off with it standing up, so you run the risk of a run. When this happens, I just sand it smooth, starting with 120 and working my way up to 3000 until it is smooth. Just be careful not to remove too much paint in the non run area. Then wax it. I wet sand my paint jobs even if there isn't a run.

What drove me nuts last night, I was painting the Virtual Boy cabinet and a a few little bits of the foam roller broke off in the paint! I was able to pick them out with tweezers and run the roller over it again.

The roller was a foam shur-line I got at WalMart, what roller brand do you use? Does this happen to you?

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