your patience in waiting to put the overlay on will be worth it, even if you can't see it you'll know!
Fish eyes on metal
- Thread starter Deadpool66
- Start date
I think you're totally on the right track. I've had terrific results going this way but in the end, using quality products is key. I once called the Consumer Hotline for Krylon paints because one of our students in an electric guitar building program was wanting to use aerosol spray paint on his guitar. I expressed that I didn't think the finish would be durable enough and, surprisingly, the gal on the phone at Krylon said this (paraphrasing from memory):
"You have to understand that our consumer products are made to sell for about $3 at the retail level. Also, environmental restrictions do not allow us to use many types of additives that would provide a harder finish. If that's my guitar, there's no way I'll use a can of spray paint on it."
I'm not a big fan of using RustOleum aerosols because they contain (so I'm told) fish oil that makes them incompatible with other types of clears and paints.
The aerosol primer I recommended in this thread is great stuff, but still there's no way to achieve the kind of results in finish and durability that you can get with professional automotive paints and spraying equipment. Just the paint alone to paint a fender on a car today might run you $100. But it has to stay shiny for years. The gun the painter uses will likely be many hundreds of dollars. You can't get that from a can of anything.
That being said, I've used aerosols for control panels, especially when the overlay covers nearly all of it. (like Galaga). Also, home use of these machines is light, especially when you consider we're arcade aficionados who will not be abusing them.
Please feel free to visit my restoration website--you'll find a lot of detailed photos and information about the way I went about things. It worked for me and you'll find your own set of favorite tools, materials, and techniques. Maybe that's why there are almost 20 replies here and well over 2,000 views of this seemingly simple thread. We take it seriously!
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Parpunk
Member
If you wanted to send this off to have it professionally done i could do it for you. Whether in a trade or cash.
However the quote you already got isn't too far off. If your using the paints we use at our shop you'd have at least 30 to 40 bucks just in paint and clear. Heck the clear coat we use is over $300.00 a gallon. so yea you get what u pay for.
As for what paint is best for metal thats an easy one. What are cars made of? Metal. So Automotive paint is the way to go.
As for your pic, yea looks like possible pitting, which in that case a quick swipe of body filler (bondo) then sand it smooth, prime, and than base coat (a few light coats) then clear coat. Then even after that to make it perfect your gonna wanna wetsand it (we use 1500 grit) then buff the shin back in it. Then its smooth like glass.
Also Orange peel comes from the way a painter is spraying it/letting it dry. Looks the way it sounds, like an Orange Peel.
However the quote you already got isn't too far off. If your using the paints we use at our shop you'd have at least 30 to 40 bucks just in paint and clear. Heck the clear coat we use is over $300.00 a gallon. so yea you get what u pay for.
As for what paint is best for metal thats an easy one. What are cars made of? Metal. So Automotive paint is the way to go.
As for your pic, yea looks like possible pitting, which in that case a quick swipe of body filler (bondo) then sand it smooth, prime, and than base coat (a few light coats) then clear coat. Then even after that to make it perfect your gonna wanna wetsand it (we use 1500 grit) then buff the shin back in it. Then its smooth like glass.
Also Orange peel comes from the way a painter is spraying it/letting it dry. Looks the way it sounds, like an Orange Peel.
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Deadpool66
New member
The pits aren't in the metal the paint just seemed to repel away from a few spots. I may not have cleaned it well enough. I may take you up on your offer.
sounds like it wasn't clean enough, also is your spray booth in the same building or vented to the same building as the automotive repair? silicone in the air can do terrible things to paintjobs.
You might want to take it to a local auto body shop and they will probably do it for you for a good price and it will likely look flawless when they are done.
My husband has done a ton paint jobs on weird things over the years.
Offer to pay in cash and you will likely get a good deal
My husband has done a ton paint jobs on weird things over the years.
Offer to pay in cash and you will likely get a good deal
Parpunk
Member
You might want to take it to a local auto body shop and they will probably do it for you for a good price and it will likely look flawless when they are done.
My husband has done a ton paint jobs on weird things over the years.
Offer to pay in cash and you will likely get a good deal
Or if they are like our shop they are swamped with insurance work and have literally no time to paint little toys for $100. Luckily my father owns our shop and I manage it, so I can sneak in little side projects. Man we always get people bringing in tractor parts wanting them done and there just isn't any money in working on small projects, ends up tieing up the paint Booth and getting in the way. Unless your a restore shop and ya have the time and are slow.
Dupont made a product called prep sol, which was a silicon remover. When we painted our cars, we would wipe them down with this stuff and never had a problem with fish eye.
Our shop is a collision shop, mostly regular insurance work, some long term restorations for if it gets slow, and weird jobs like lawn furniture, tractor parts and boat motor covers for cash, so the wife of the owner is happy
Parpunk
Member
Our shop is a collision shop, mostly regular insurance work, some long term restorations for if it gets slow, and weird jobs like lawn furniture, tractor parts and boat motor covers for cash, so the wife of the owner is happy
yea i hear ya man. we used to do some restorations but quit about 2 years ago. Just seemed to take way too long and wasn't really profitable after you take in all the time etc. Plus when you have the insurance companies and customers waiting on their cars the resto job would end up just sitting for days, that turned to weeks, that turned to months, than then turned into over a year lol. We had one resto that was at the shop for over a year cause it just never got slow again lol. So we have not taken one in since.
Honestly, powder coating is the way to go.....and yes, $125 is crazy. Call around to other shops. Often, if you're doing a common color (IE: like black).....they'll just toss the small stuff in with something larger, and not hit you too hard in the wallet. A control panel should be a $25 job....give or take.
Edward
pmichelsen
Well-known member
To add to this, I always mention that I am not in a big rush and I can wait until they are shooting a bigger load of black. As Edward said, black is VERY common and I would imagine most shops shoot black on a weekly basis.
jpopson
New member
I have a powder coating rig and oven in my shop, you could send it to me, and if you are not in a rush, I will do it for you for the cost of the shipping here and back!!! lol Specify the sheen that you want, I have flat black in stock, and can have semi or gloss black in a couple days notice!
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Deadpool66
New member
Found a company that will do it for 75 but I have to strip the metal. Anyone recommend a good product home depot will carry.
Yes. Strypeeze works well (1st attachment) and is available at Lowes and *probably* Home Depot or other such product. The best stuff is
Kleen Strip Aircraft Paint Remover (available at auto body supply stores), but the Strypeeze works well enough to get the job done.
You can see the process here:
http://pac-maniac.com/pacmanrestoration_page5.html
EDIT: Upon further review, it appears that Home Depot doesn't have that particular product *made by Savogran*. Ace Hardware has it. Home Depot appears to favor the more "environmentally friendly" products. I have a rule of thumb about things like that--if it's environmentally friendly, it won't work as well. The more lethal stuff is, the better it seems to work. As far as food, the healthier it is for you, the worse it's going to taste.
Kleen Strip Aircraft Paint Remover (available at auto body supply stores), but the Strypeeze works well enough to get the job done.
You can see the process here:
http://pac-maniac.com/pacmanrestoration_page5.html
EDIT: Upon further review, it appears that Home Depot doesn't have that particular product *made by Savogran*. Ace Hardware has it. Home Depot appears to favor the more "environmentally friendly" products. I have a rule of thumb about things like that--if it's environmentally friendly, it won't work as well. The more lethal stuff is, the better it seems to work. As far as food, the healthier it is for you, the worse it's going to taste.
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Deadpool66
New member
Thanks I actually live right next an Ace Hardware. Ill have to stop on my way home.
creepykenny
Well-known member
fish eyes are sometimes & easily caused by oils in the skin, always wear cheapo latex gloves when handling anything that you have cleaned and are getting ready to paint otherwise you will get fisheyes from your handling it
Mike Doyle
Well-known member
Keep in mind that you are usually painting metal parts that have been in contact with sweaty, greasy hands for 30+ years, so a casual wipe with degreaser isn't going to eliminate fish eyes.
I preclean parts before doing any prep work, so I'm not grinding or sanding any oily residue into the metal. Then I sand, strip, fill, etc whatever the part requires, and wipe it down with Naptha.
Now for the secret- Windex Yes, I said Windex.
Many high end rod & custom shops use good ole Windex as the final prep before paint. It's one of the best kept secrets in the industry, which is ironic since these same shops often apply paint that cost hundreds per gallon.
As for paint, it's hard to beat "Painters Choice" from Home Depot. Their semi-gloss black is excellent for 90% of control panels, coin doors, and marquee rails.
I preclean parts before doing any prep work, so I'm not grinding or sanding any oily residue into the metal. Then I sand, strip, fill, etc whatever the part requires, and wipe it down with Naptha.
Now for the secret- Windex Yes, I said Windex.
Many high end rod & custom shops use good ole Windex as the final prep before paint. It's one of the best kept secrets in the industry, which is ironic since these same shops often apply paint that cost hundreds per gallon.
As for paint, it's hard to beat "Painters Choice" from Home Depot. Their semi-gloss black is excellent for 90% of control panels, coin doors, and marquee rails.
This x 1000. $125 to powder coat a control panel is insane!
jpopson
New member
I must be crazy, but I think i said I would do it for free if you paid for the shipping here and back!!! lmao
