First post Sega Turbo attempt at restore

.... "the works toilet bowl cleaner".

That's hydrochloric acid. I would not use that for general PCB cleaning.... I have used it for cleaning up boards with battery corrosion. But that is way too harsh for removing minor oxidation. If sockets are corroded, just replace them.
 
That's hydrochloric acid. I would not use that for general PCB cleaning.... I have used it for cleaning up boards with battery corrosion. But that is way too harsh for removing minor oxidation. If sockets are corroded, just replace them.

Duly noted! Just read the ingredients. It's active ingredient is 9% hydrogen chloride. Apparently it used to be 20% hydrogen chloride. I'm sure that would have been interesting with aluminum foil...
 
Hahaha. The new trend. Have your game smell like a toilet.

Of course you have to scrub it off quick, its meant for cleaning shit and piss.

Well when I first got this machine, it had plenty of that, which I didn't realize when I bought it. I actually did a quick bit of research about hantavirus after I realized what I had vacuumed up with the shop vac. The first thing I learned was you should never ever use a shop vac to vaccum up a rats nest...
 
Got around to installing Matt's high score save kit today. Works great, couldn't be more happy with it. I wish I knew what I did to my other PCB though when I tried to install it last time. These boards are very flakey, I had some new graphics glitches show up the other day for some reason. I'm going to try swapping some roms around. I might try replacing all the sockets if that doesn't work.
 

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It seems I got the graphics glitches pretty much taken care of. I reflowed every single socket and then swapped out each rom from my other board set one by one. That is I would swap a rom, put the board stack back together, put it back in the machine turn it on... repeat, repeat, repeat.... and that was my Sunday. It still glitches a bit until the monitor warms up though, but it's always done that. I should be getting a new chassis next weekend, then I'll rebuild it and then try it. Hopefully that will work out and I can call this thing done!
 
There's so many posts in this thread I can't keep track, but here's a link from a previous Turbo thread a few years back a few of us were involved in. You may find some resourceful info there in regards to your resto.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=241431&highlight=phoenixstar+turbo

Thanks! Lots of good info in that thread. After reading that I can concour that the biggest issues with these PCBs is the oxidation that occurs on the chips and the sockets. Also these boards are very flimsy. They are hard to work on because of this. One of the issues I discovered that I had caused is that in the process of reseating some of the roms, some of the legs on the bottom of the PCB bent and shorted to some of the traces. I had to go around with a magnifying glass and my multi meter to find all of those. These PCBs are certainly nowhere near as robust as some of my other games.
 
About those "do not adjust" pots on the P-rom boards... well I had to adjust them, and I figured out an easy way to do it, at least for my board set. I was having some graphics issues and the cars seemed way to big. I couldn't find any documentation on these until I found a picture for a listing for an instruction set for the turbo that was missing from my cab. Basically VR2 (the top knob when installed in the cab) is the rough adjustment and VR1 is the fine adjustment. What I figured out is that when both these knobs are turned all the way up (clockwise) the cars and buildings and trees shrink to their minimum size(become shorter not narrower). When they are both turned all the way down, they are all at their maximum size. Now when they are cranked all the way up and everything was at its shortest, I was getting some strange graphics glitches from the buildings. Certain building were turning to solid white lines. Take the rough adjustment knob and turn it down until the glitches in the buildings go away. Then you can take the fine adjustment knob and kind of dial it in a bit. I wait until the scene with the grey walls with the black lines in them and if those black lines are close to even with the wall, then it should be pretty close. I don't know if this will work for evey turbo, apparently according to the instruction sheet I found online there are two revisions of the P-rom board. I would't try adjusting these unless you absolutely have to, as I have read older posts of people really having a hard time adjusting these.
 

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Old thread I know, but I keep stumbling on threads with Sega turbo's and no one has the shifter decal. Considering I attempted to recreate it, and that Etienne is no longer making decals I thought I would share it here for anyone who wanted to try it. It can't be all that accurate as I only had an old photo I found online to work with and I'm not that good at creating vector artwork.. I tried.. I found a PNG of it, and think I have the illustrator file somewhere… If anyone needs it, I'll look for it..
 

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About those "do not adjust" pots on the P-rom boards... well I had to adjust them, and I figured out an easy way to do it, at least for my board set. I was having some graphics issues and the cars seemed way to big. I couldn't find any documentation on these until I found a picture for a listing for an instruction set for the turbo that was missing from my cab. Basically VR2 (the top knob when installed in the cab) is the rough adjustment and VR1 is the fine adjustment. What I figured out is that when both these knobs are turned all the way up (clockwise) the cars and buildings and trees shrink to their minimum size(become shorter not narrower). When they are both turned all the way down, they are all at their maximum size. Now when they are cranked all the way up and everything was at its shortest, I was getting some strange graphics glitches from the buildings. Certain building were turning to solid white lines. Take the rough adjustment knob and turn it down until the glitches in the buildings go away. Then you can take the fine adjustment knob and kind of dial it in a bit. I wait until the scene with the grey walls with the black lines in them and if those black lines are close to even with the wall, then it should be pretty close. I don't know if this will work for evey turbo, apparently according to the instruction sheet I found online there are two revisions of the P-rom board. I would't try adjusting these unless you absolutely have to, as I have read older posts of people really having a hard time adjusting these.

Good information! I've been delaying adjusting these in mine. During the move, the subwoofer in the cabinet escaped for freedom by removing itself via the metal screw-in things that dig into the wood. It then crashed into the boardset and knocked something to go all fathead mode with the sprites. I'll give your suggestions here a go hopefully this week.
 
Good information! I've been delaying adjusting these in mine. During the move, the subwoofer in the cabinet escaped for freedom by removing itself via the metal screw-in things that dig into the wood. It then crashed into the boardset and knocked something to go all fathead mode with the sprites. I'll give your suggestions here a go hopefully this week.
I need to adjust mine again, as I'm getting some glitches with the buildings and trees. Do you happen to know how to set the dip switches so you advance to the next level once you pass the required amount of cars. Mine is set to where you have to run out the time to get to the next level. I didn't even know this was a setting until last night when I saw a video of someone playing.
 
I need to adjust mine again, as I'm getting some glitches with the buildings and trees. Do you happen to know how to set the dip switches so you advance to the next level once you pass the required amount of cars. Mine is set to where you have to run out the time to get to the next level. I didn't even know this was a setting until last night when I saw a video of someone playing.

I think I have mine set to Easy mode with 90 seconds. I like seeing how many times I can loop the "track".
 

I think I have mine set to Easy mode with 90 seconds. I like seeing how many times I can loop the "track".
Thanks, so would that be switch number 3 I need to adjust? I just want to set it so you get to the next level after you pass the required amount of cars.
 
Thanks, so would that be switch number 3 I need to adjust? I just want to set it so you get to the next level after you pass the required amount of cars.
It would appear so. I'm like you in that I never knew that was an option to begin with and I never wanted to limit the game time like that.
 
Yeah I didn't know until this video popped up in my YouTube feed. Watch at the end where he's testing his repair. He's lucky his optical board wasn't fried. I still haven't found the encoders and parts to fix my dead one (have 2) would be nice if someone had a kit or posted a parts list somewhere.
 
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