First post Sega Turbo attempt at restore

32v dc unregulated is going to 834-0121 pcb the sound amp

The 8v unregulated dc seems to be (585) and dead ends in a connector (cp) control panel? Perhaps a light? Im not sure
 
Only thing to keep in mind is the light fixture for the marquee may have been swapped out and replaced. Mine was replaced with something terrible that I removed (I converted it to LED strip lighting). But yeah it's nice to have all of these values in one place. :)

FWIW, Red LED's for coin-door lighting is awesome. Not too bright but gives a much nicer, even back lighting behind those red coin return buttons. :)

I was thinking about redoing all the lighting at some point in LED's when I have the funds and if I can figure out suitable replacements. Do you have a link to those LED coin door lights?
 
32v dc unregulated is going to 834-0121 pcb the sound amp

The 8v unregulated dc seems to be (585) and dead ends in a connector (cp) control panel? Perhaps a light? Im not sure

The 32volts going to the amp makes sense the lights in the control panel are the same 14v in the LED score panel and the 6v lamp in the start button. I would have to assume then that the 8v is going to the optical encoder, unless of course the 6v lamp is getting 8v and not 5v... going to have to get my meter on that when I get it hooked up again...
 
So I tested the NOS optical encoder I got last night and worked great! Also fired up the game to test the sound for the first time since I got the parts express woffer. This game is loud!!! I think one of the upper speakers is blown though, which isn't surprising considering the shape this machine was in. Question, I think those speakers are 4 inch correct? In my picture they look like 4 inches to me, but I want to confirm that before ordering two of these. I remember them being 4ohms.

https://www.parts-express.com/grs-4as-4-4-car-replacement-speaker-4-ohm--292-454
 

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hah yeah you have two volume pots up front in the coin door area, the lower bass speaker being the more important one IMO (it delivers the engine rumble sound, when you crash in a tunnel it's awesome).

Also there's individual volume pots on the one board for sounds, so if somethign is too loud, like the ambulance, you can always adjust it.
 
hah yeah you have two volume pots up front in the coin door area, the lower bass speaker being the more important one IMO (it delivers the engine rumble sound, when you crash in a tunnel it's awesome).

Also there's individual volume pots on the one board for sounds, so if somethign is too loud, like the ambulance, you can always adjust it.

Yep, I've played around with all the pots. I just haven't heard the game with the new 12 inch speaker before. One thing I have noticed is that when I turn the pots in the coin door all the way down I'm still hearing the game at what I would consider normal game volume levels. Is this normal or should I be looking for replacement pots? Also those are 4inch speakers and not 3 1/2 or 5 1/4 or something correct?
 
Im not aure on the size, but they are 4ohm according to the schematic.

14v goes to the score display fyi.
 
Im not aure on the size, but they are 4ohm according to the schematic.

14v goes to the score display fyi.

Thanks for confirming that! Arcade boneyard has the inner speaker grill size listed as 4 3/4, so from that I can deduce with relative confidence that these are 4 inch speakers and so I'll go ahead and pick these up.
 
Thanks for all the bulb info here. You are awesome. I am working on a Super Hang On, and was literally just sitting there the other day wondering how I am gonna track down the missing lights.

Do you have a specific resource where you were able to match all these up? Or just Google mastery?

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for all the bulb info here. You are awesome. I am working on a Super Hang On, and was literally just sitting there the other day wondering how I am gonna track down the missing lights.

Do you have a specific resource where you were able to match all these up? Or just Google mastery?

Thanks again.

You're welcome! Most of the information came from the other folks with Turbos here on KLOV and most of those folks have commented on this thread already. So a big thank you to them! All I did was put all the info in one place, cause I knew it would be useful to others to consolidate all that they figured out.
 
Got this game almost completely wrapped up this weekend. I tackled one of the biggest projects of this restore, the steering wheel. This wheel was in sad shape. It was badly rusted and the chrome was flaking off. Also the rubber was pretty much shot and someone had previously wrapped it with bicycle handlebar tape. When I removed it, it held the impression of the tape in the rubber. I knew that the easiest thing was to replace it. I don't have any in progress pictures to show, but I started by grinding the metal down with a dremel attachment. I made sure to wear my respirator, sanding paint and bondo is bad enough, grinding toxic metals is really nasty. Once I had the wheel ground down to bare metal, I hit it with 60 grit, followed by 80, then 120. At this point I switched to wet sanding by hand, staring with 600 grit, followed by 400, 1000 and 1500. Once that is done you have to oil the part in order to prevent rust and to buff it. I like to use light machine oil, but I've seen some people use motor oil for this. I didn't get a mirror finish this time there is a bit of crazing in the finish, but after 8 hours of sanding I was just ready to be done with it. I could have made it absolutely flawless, but this game isn't flawless and never can be due to the lack of reproduction art and t molding. Next up I rewrapped the wheel with handlebar tape. I went with a classic diamond pattern in vinyl as that was what was on it and also I remember it from the 80's. When you get the tape it comes in two rolls obviously. It took both rolls to wrap it. Some handlebar tape isn't adhesive at all, which is how mine came. So I started by wrapping the wheel in electrical tape as tightly as I could with the sticky side facing out. Then I wrapped the tape on top of that. I'm not going to go into a lot of detail, but I followed a lot of technique's in this video and it came out pretty good. https://youtu.be/5MzIiv7pewE Once the wheel was done, I put all the pieces and the wiring of the control panel back together and hooked it up and I was in business... almost... I apparently managed to damage one of the wires to the 14volt lights and caused a short which blew a fuse. Off to the store to find a 4amp 250v replacement so I could get this that much closer to done. Only problem was I couldn't find a 4amp 250v fuse locally. Every 4amp fuse I could find was 32volts, so I had to use a 5amp 250v instead. I'm 99% certain that the only thing on this circuit are the 14v lamps so I'm not going to stress it at this point. Finally after replacing the fuse, I had a working Turbo! I have no memories of playing turbo before today, but this game is fun! Both my sons seem to love it. I'm going to have to get the high score save kit after the holidays as it's really fun trying to best each other's score. Plus this game just screams for a high score save option. So other than get the high score/free play kit, all I have let to do is replace the upper speakers and sand and paint the back door. I also need to figure out what's causing the whine and why I'm missing the tire screeching in the snow sound ( if I can) and I'm pretty much done!
 

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More pictures.
 

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So someone had hacked up the wiring and the coin door pretty badly on this machine in an attempt to wire up a credit switch. The coin mechs were torn apart with parts missing, the test switch was gone leaving only its input wire in place, and the coin mechs wires were all cut. What they apparently settled on as a credit switch was to have one of the coin input switches and one ground wire stripped with the rest of the coin door wiring all disconnected and taped up behind the coin door. Why they didn't just leave the test switch alone and just use that it beyond me. Anyway I fixed all that and I don't have a free play and high score kit (yet) so I was essentially in the same boat as whoever did the hack job. I want my 9 year old son and all his friends to be able to play the game without messing around inside the cab playing around with all the switches and knobs. There is a simple solution to this problem, one that doesn't involve hacking up the wiring, adding additional buttons or modifying the coin mechs to add a credit button. One that is completely reversible. All you need is a wire.... one single wire, that's it...
My stupidity, stupidly simple free, free play mod.
Step 1: set the dip switch settings so that one of the credit switches is set to 2 coins 1 credit.
Step 2: find the molex connector in the cabinet for the control panel and locate the start button input wire. In sega turbos case, it is the blue and white wire.
Step three: locate the molex connector inside the cab for the coin door and locate the coin up input wire that you changed to 2 coins 1 credit.
Step 4: take a piece of wire that is long enough to run between the two molex connectors and strip both ends of that wire.
Step 5: shove one end of the wire into the back of the molex connector at the start button input wire and the other end into the coin up input wire. Done.

Now when you hit the start button twice, the game coins up and starts. Every now and then you have to hit the button 3 times, but other than that it works great. I also do pretty much the same thing to my PAC man and Galaxian who's free play mode doesn't have an attract screen. This is simple, non destructive, reversable and a no brainer.... hope this helps someone.
 

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Thanks guys, I'm trying!
So my start button light will work only once in a blue moon it seems. I thought it had to be a bad connection somewhere and I attempted without success to repair it by working my way back from the switch itself. Using my multi meter I could tell I had 5v at the button. I had continuity between all the appropriate points on the light itself. I had continuity all the way from the button to the PCB... so I decided to check the socket to make absolutely sure it wasn't the issue by using a 6v lantern battery. It checked out fine. Next point in the chain was at the PCB connection. I repinned that and no change at all. That means the issue has got to be with the PCB. I'm going to reflow the header pins next and then reseat all the sockets. If that doesn't work than at that point I will be at a loss. I'm not very experienced when it comes to repairing PCBs and monitors, and I might need a lot of help. If I can't get this particular issue figured out, I'll more than likely just wire the button to stay lit.

The other thing I figured out while trying to interperate the schematics to figure out what could be wrong with the start button light is that the coin counters on these machines are supposed to be illuminated. This had me intrigued for some reason and so naturally I decided to try and replace that. I took it apart to see what lamp was in it and found one of the oddest fixture I've ever seen. I don't know what this is, but it should be easy enough to replace with an LED.
 

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No clue never seen it


Hey you recapped the 834-0120 power board.


Their all radial caps right? Leads on one side of the can?

Screenshot_2017-11-14-20-18-28.png


Screenshot_2017-11-14-20-14-19.png
 
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No clue never seen it


Hey you recapped the 834-0120 power board.


Their all radial caps right? Leads on one side of the can?

I haven't gotten to that yet, I haven't replaced any of the caps yet. I need to recap that, the audio amp and the monitor at some point. Looking at it though I'm not seeing anything on it other than radial caps and the little chiclet ones that seem to rarely go bad. I know that one of the guys who posted here. I think either whitefox or offset got a cap kit for it made up by either Ian Kellog or some one else. I can't find that info at the moment, but I need to figure that out myself as well! If you track that down before me, please share! I'm trying to rush to get this to a point where I can get it out of the garage and into the basement before it gets to cold, so I'm prioritizing my task list based on that. One of the reasons I bought this particular game was I know that the electronics had been gone though at some point in the last 10-15 years. The PCB has an eldorodo games tag on it. I'm kinda hoping that it won't need more than caps and cleaning/reseating roms.
 
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