First post Sega Turbo attempt at restore

Today I stripped the coin door, cleaned, painted and wired it up. While I had it broken down, I decided to create some custom coin reject inserts, just to shake things up a bit. Made them on my PC and printed them on regular paper. Someone had unhooked the service switch and thew away the test switch for some reason. I soldered the wires back to the service switch and then had to find a momentary switch to replace the test switch. My two local radio shacks closed a few years back and the nearest one to me is about 30 to 45 minutes away. So I had to find something at the auto parts store. Found and installed this switch as my test switch and it works great. https://m.pepboys.com/product/details/8321408/00094?quantity=1 Not sure why someone would cut those switches out. Also I can't figure out why Sega used what appears to be DPDT switches either.
 

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Today I only had the time to rebuild the gas pedal assembly and the shifter assembly. As others have noted the shifter is really interesting. I cleaned and painted them and then greased them. They feel like new now. I also cleaned the metal plate at the bottom with a wire brush and some metal polish.
 

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The coin door that came with the game was incomplete. It was missing one half side of the coin mech, one coin reject button and the sockets for the lights. I found an incomplete door on eBay for $25.00 plus shipping. Between the two I had enough parts to build a complete coin door. Tonight I picked the best parts from both doors and was able to put together a complete door in really excellent condition. I've got to break it down again to clean and paint and wire it up, but I think it already looks great.


Man I am envious of that lower coin door. Haven't been able to find one for mine yet, no one will part out either.
 
Man I am envious of that lower coin door. Haven't been able to find one for mine yet, no one will part out either.


The parts for this game are out there, but they aren't exactly cheap. I had to pay a good amount for the optical encoder board. I don't think a lot of people work on the PCBs either. When I get mine working I might sell it after enjoying it a while, before it breaks! I found that door for sale. Not my listing, just trying to help you out...
Actually this one has a hinge to it and is a bit different than mine, as mine just comes off completely. Still this should work.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/222683147672
 
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Got the replacement NOS optical encoder board in yesterday. Haven't tested it yet. Thought I would post a list of all the lamps and parts I bought to replace all the lighting as I have never found a complete list online, and think it would be helpful to others.

Marquee: x1: Eiko 15524 - F10T8/CW Straight T8 Fluorescent Tube Light Bulb 10 watt
X1:FS-U universal fluorescent starter

Coin door: x2: #1816 12 volt lamps

Control panel Instruments and LED lamps: x6: #194 14 volt lamps

Start button: x1: #379 miniature lamp
 
Got the replacement NOS optical encoder board in yesterday. Haven't tested it yet. Thought I would post a list of all the lamps and parts I bought to replace all the lighting as I have never found a complete list online, and think it would be helpful to others.

Marquee: x1: Eiko 15524 - F10T8/CW Straight T8 Fluorescent Tube Light Bulb 10 watt
X1:FS-U universal fluorescent starter

Coin door: x2: #1816 12 volt lamps

Control panel Instruments and LED lamps: x6: #194 14 volt lamps

Start button: x1: #379 miniature lamp

Only thing to keep in mind is the light fixture for the marquee may have been swapped out and replaced. Mine was replaced with something terrible that I removed (I converted it to LED strip lighting). But yeah it's nice to have all of these values in one place. :)

FWIW, Red LED's for coin-door lighting is awesome. Not too bright but gives a much nicer, even back lighting behind those red coin return buttons. :)
 
can you explain the switcher requirements please.

Is it using 12 +5 and -5?

my buddys game had the switcher removed and I do not know where the bundles of wires that are soldered to the u connector go.... I think there was pink blue white and yellow?? A photo would help so much thanks


Edit

Ok hust read the manual.... Thr switcher is 5v rated @10amps? Thats it... Just a 5v switcher?

So the regulator board is the magic section 100v in and outputs +12 +12 -12 and 32v unregulated

But there is also what a bridge rectifier seperated for 8v unregulated with a 4amp fuse before it
 
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can you explain the switcher requirements please.

Is it using 12 +5 and -5?

my buddys game had the switcher removed and I do not know where the bundles of wires that are soldered to the u connector go.... I think there was pink blue white and yellow?? A photo would help so much thanks

First photo is with Sega's original switcher. The second photo with the black one is an aftermarket one I bought off of ebay. I still have that if needed.
 

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Ok I understand that now.

But strange the schematic does not show -5v coming from the switcher

Screenshot_2017-11-09-09-53-44.md.png




Also I see a cap kit on ians site for turbo i assume thats for the power regulator pcb 834-0120?
https://iankellogg.com/parts-by-games/sega/sega-turbo/turbo-regulator-cap-kit.html

And the audio pcb 834-0121 capkit at securitys site
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...power-amp-834-0121-pcb-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/
 
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First photo is with Sega's original switcher. The second photo with the black one is an aftermarket one I bought off of ebay. I still have that if needed.



Check your wiring on the black switcher. Looks like you have the ground wires hooked to the -5 lug on the switcher.
Check the manual before you change anything, but I don't see a ground connection (on your switcher wiring), and I don't recall that game using -5 from the switcher.
 
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Ok I understand that now.

But strange the schematic does not show -5v coming from the switcher

Screenshot_2017-11-09-09-53-44.md.png




Also I see a cap kit on ians site for turbo i assume thats for the power regulator pcb 834-0120?
https://iankellogg.com/parts-by-games/sega/sega-turbo/turbo-regulator-cap-kit.html

And the audio pcb 834-0121 capkit at securitys site
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...power-amp-834-0121-pcb-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/

Yeah I think that voltage regulator is supplying +12 and some other voltages to the audio PCB. Also the coin door lights seem to be getting AC volts from somewhere. I haven't quite gotten it all figured out yet. Here is a picture of that voltage regulator.
 

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Check your wiring on the black switcher. Looks like you have the ground wires hooked to the -5 lug on the switcher.
Check the manual before you change anything, but I don't see a ground connection (on your switcher wiring), and I don't recall that game using -5 from the switcher.

The ground on my PSU was disconnected as well. I had a disconnected ground wire that I couldn't quite tell where it was supposed to go so I connected it to the PSU. Perhaps it's not meant for there?
 
The ground on my PSU was disconnected as well. I had a disconnected ground wire that I couldn't quite tell where it was supposed to go so I connected it to the PSU. Perhaps it's not meant for there?



Sorry, I need more coffee. My post was probably confusing. I'm referring to the bundle of white wires, which is the logic ground for the +5. The white wires should be attached to the "GND" lug under the +5 lug on the switcher. In the picture posted of the new black switcher, the logic ground wires are incorrectly hooked to the -5 volt lug on the switcher.
 
Sorry, I need more coffee. My post was probably confusing. I'm referring to the bundle of white wires, which is the logic ground for the +5. The white wires should be attached to the "GND" lug under the +5 lug on the switcher. In the picture posted of the new black switcher, the logic ground wires are incorrectly hooked to the -5 volt lug on the switcher.

Nah I was probably the one causing confusion. My machine still has the original switching power supply and has all the correct wires hooked up to logic ground which in this game are white. I had a disconnected green ground wire that I hooked to the field ground on mine, which I'm only assuming is correct... figured it couldn't hurt.. didn't fix the ground loop whine for me though so I think my next move in figuring that out will be to recap that regulator board and look for broken traces around the caps as that to me is the most logical place for a ground loop issue to occur.
 
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Check your wiring on the black switcher. Looks like you have the ground wires hooked to the -5 lug on the switcher.
Check the manual before you change anything, but I don't see a ground connection (on your switcher wiring), and I don't recall that game using -5 from the switcher.


Thats what I thought as the schematic only shows +5v and (gnd) coming from the opposite side on the switcher...

Pink power in

Blue power in

Yellow +5v

White 1 or teo bundles on a flat spade connector ->Ground wires

There are one bundles of white wires one white solid and one white and yellow? These are ground not -5v. So I believe...

This is my buddies game... A rats nest of wires will work on that next time.

Large img link: https://klovimg.com/images/2017/11/09/20171107_145940.jpg

Medium for the post
20171107_145940.md.jpg



Is this the general consensus??? It lines up with the schematic... No -5v used.

Also the lights i think I saw 14V ac from transformer to that... Correct me?
 
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Sorry, I need more coffee. My post was probably confusing. I'm referring to the bundle of white wires, which is the logic ground for the +5. The white wires should be attached to the "GND" lug under the +5 lug on the switcher. In the picture posted of the new black switcher, the logic ground wires are incorrectly hooked to the -5 volt lug on the switcher.

I may have connected that incorrectly at first, I remember not being certain of what ground to connect it to.
 
Thats what I thought as the schematic only shows +5v and (gnd) coming from the opposite side on the switcher...

Pink power in

Blue power in

Yellow +5v

White 1 or teo bundles on a flat spade connector ->Ground wires

There are one bundles of white wires one white solid and one white and yellow? These are ground not -5v. So I believe...

This is my buddies game... A rats nest of wires will work on that next time.

Large img link: https://klovimg.com/images/2017/11/09/20171107_145940.jpg

Medium for the post
20171107_145940.md.jpg



Is this the general consensus??? It lines up with the schematic... No -5v used.

Also the lights i think I saw 14V ac from transformer to that... Correct me?

Yeah I don't think it has a -5v at all. The solid white wires are for ground and the you have a white with brown stripe for the 14v lights and then a white and yellow stripe which I am assuming are for 5 volts or 5 ground as the light in the start button has a white and yellow which is going to the 6volt lamp in it. Sorry I can't be of more help as I'm not quite that far into the voltage wiring yet.
 

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Its cool Orion, we are hobbyists not experts.

But clarifying this now, gives those in the future a better understanding.

Now if I could find a source for those turn contact bulb housings...
 
Its cool Orion, we are hobbyists not experts.

But clarifying this now, gives those in the future a better understanding.

Now if I could find a source for those turn contact bulb housings...

So to recap this game uses +32v, +14v, +12V, +8v, +5v, -12V correct? Where is that 32 and 8 going?

Edit: oh and 100v for the monitor.
 
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