First Pin / First Pin Repair Attempt - Dolly Parton

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First Pin / First Pin Repair Attempt - Dolly Parton

Made a lot buy over the weekend, and included was a Dolly Parton pinball machine. I power it on, and all the lights come up, but the system dosnt boot. No displays, no lights on the mpu, nothing.

I got good voltages at each of the 5 test points on the transformer, but the only one with voltage on the mpu was TP3. I was told this machine was a common KISS conversion and started basic diagnostics with those schematics, but there are somethings that im sure are different. For example, pin 8 of the power transformer board is an orange wire that goes up next to the solenoid driver and is just hanging there. The schematics didnt list where that goes. Its listed out of the transformer as A3J3-12, but I couldnt find that referenced anywhere.

Does anyone have schematics for this, or any advice on what to go after first?

Thanks
 
Here's the manual but it doesn't appear to have the schematics:

http://www.ipdb.org/files/698/Bally_1979_Dolly_Parton_Manual.pdf

Kiss uses a different power supply but the game is basically the same. The other boards and inter-board wiring will be the same. Games that should be the same as Dolly Parton (same power supply, sound board, etc...) are:

Star Trek:
Manual: http://www.ipdb.org/files/2355/Bally_1979_Star_Trek_Manual.pdf
Schematics: http://www.ipdb.org/files/2355/Bally_1979_Star_Trek_Schematics_paginated.pdf

Paragon:
Manual: http://www.ipdb.org/files/1755/Bally_1979_Paragon_Manual.pdf
Schematics: http://www.ipdb.org/files/1755/Bally_1979_Paragon_Schematics.pdf

Harlem Globe Trotters:
Manual: http://www.ipdb.org/files/1125/Bally_1979_Harlem_Globetrotters_On_Tour_Manual.pdf

Those manuals should be more than enough to fix your game.

Made a lot buy over the weekend, and included was a Dolly Parton pinball machine. I power it on, and all the lights come up, but the system dosnt boot. No displays, no lights on the mpu, nothing.

Probably a power supply problem but it sounds like you already guessed that.

I got good voltages at each of the 5 test points on the transformer, but the only one with voltage on the mpu was TP3. I was told this machine was a common KISS conversion and started basic diagnostics with those schematics, but there are somethings that im sure are different.

The playfield and insert panel (where the displays and backbox lamps are) wiring will be different. The boards and board interconnects should be basically the same throughout the whole series (-35).

For example, pin 8 of the power transformer board is an orange wire that goes up next to the solenoid driver and is just hanging there. The schematics didnt list where that goes. Its listed out of the transformer as A3J3-12, but I couldnt find that referenced anywhere.

Are you talking about the transformer or rectifier board (connected to the transformer by a bunch of wires). There shouldn't be any wires from the transformer itself going directly to the regulator/driver board. If there is a wire coming out of the transformer that's disconnected it will go to the rectifier board.

If you're talking about lug 8 coming out of the transformer then it's one side of the winding that powers the displays.

Are you talking about the rectifier board? There are 4 connectors on that board and 3 of them have more than 8 pins. Which one are you referring to?

Does anyone have schematics for this, or any advice on what to go after first?

I would start at the transformer/rectifier board. Make sure all the voltage are correct there and there are no fuses blown.

Rectifier board test point voltages according to the schematic:

TP1: 5.4VDC
TP2: 230VDC
TP3: 11.9VDC
TP4: 7.3VAC Note: AC voltage
TP5: 43VDC


Then move to the regulator/driver board and make sure the power supply section is working well. Once you've got good power you can try to get the MPU booting and go from there.
 
Yup, the rectifier is the one I was talking about. The 5 TP's there are all good, and match the kiss schematic. It has 3 connectors on it, the 2 small 10 or so pins (not in front of me, so from memory), then the large 20 pin. The hanging wire is pin 8 of the 20 pin connector and is putting out 12v.

I checked the fuses, and the large ceramic 600ohm resistor as well. All seemed good there. It looks like the foil is a bit crumbled up underneath the top coat of the board, but it was still making a good circuit.

Thanks for the additional reference manuals. Ill pour over them some before getting back to the repair tonight.
 
Making progress already. Cool :)

Yup, the rectifier is the one I was talking about. The 5 TP's there are all good, and match the kiss schematic. It has 3 connectors on it, the 2 small 10 or so pins (not in front of me, so from memory), then the large 20 pin. The hanging wire is pin 8 of the 20 pin connector and is putting out 12v.

That's the 12V output from the rectifier board (obviously). It goes to the regulator/driver and is the source for the +5VDC. It's the input to the 5V voltage regulator.

Pin 8 from connector J3 of the rectifier board should go to pin 12 of connector J3 on the regulator/driver board. You could also connect it temporarily to TP5 of the regulator/driver for testing.

That will definitely cause the game to not boot because you've got no +5VDC. Take a look at that connector (J3 on the regulator/driver). It's where all the power comes in and out of that board so it's very common for it to have burnt pins. The connectors carrying power throughout the game could probably stand to be replaced but let's get it working first.

As usual, confirm all this stuff with the schematics. It's early and I'm not perfect ;)
 
Making progress already. Cool :)
That's the 12V output from the rectifier board (obviously). It goes to the regulator/driver and is the source for the +5VDC. It's the input to the 5V voltage regulator.

Pin 8 from connector J3 of the rectifier board should go to pin 12 of connector J3 on the regulator/driver board. You could also connect it temporarily to TP5 of the regulator/driver for testing.

Good to know!

That will definitely cause the game to not boot because you've got no +5VDC. Take a look at that connector (J3 on the regulator/driver). It's where all the power comes in and out of that board so it's very common for it to have burnt pins. The connectors carrying power throughout the game could probably stand to be replaced but let's get it working first.
Thats easy enough, Im sure mouser carries something close. The solder joints on this guy are huge!!

As usual, confirm all this stuff with the schematics. It's early and I'm not perfect ;)

Youre not? I thought you were an omnipotent genius who could give perfect advice 24/7 without even any coffee!!! :-D
 
Thats easy enough, Im sure mouser carries something close. The solder joints on this guy are huge!!

They're .156" and .100" Molex headers throughout. Mouser definitely carries them. I usually buy that kind of stuff from Great Plains but I've also bought Molex parts from Mouser when I'm ordering other stuff from them.

http://greatplainselectronics.com/
 
They're .156" and .100" Molex headers throughout. Mouser definitely carries them. I usually buy that kind of stuff from Great Plains but I've also bought Molex parts from Mouser when I'm ordering other stuff from them.

http://greatplainselectronics.com/


Well, you know theyre a good place to support when williams connectors are on the home page!! I guess ill go there if I need anything as long as theyre comparable to digikey and mouser on pricing.
 
Well, you know theyre a good place to support when williams connectors are on the home page!! I guess ill go there if I need anything as long as theyre comparable to digikey and mouser on pricing.

I've found that you have to get into some big volumes to start beating Ed's prices but YMMV.

Reminds me I need to place an order... ;)
 
I get it - schematic matches what you said. I was reading the labels by the pins as wire names, which is what we do with industrial automation controls wiring diagrams, but its actually board number, jumper number, pin number of the destination. Now that I understand that, this should get much easier :)

Explains why I couldnt find matches for some of this stuff to locate both endpoints!

Making progress already. Cool :)

That's the 12V output from the rectifier board (obviously). It goes to the regulator/driver and is the source for the +5VDC. It's the input to the 5V voltage regulator.

Pin 8 from connector J3 of the rectifier board should go to pin 12 of connector J3 on the regulator/driver board. You could also connect it temporarily to TP5 of the regulator/driver for testing.

That will definitely cause the game to not boot because you've got no +5VDC. Take a look at that connector (J3 on the regulator/driver). It's where all the power comes in and out of that board so it's very common for it to have burnt pins. The connectors carrying power throughout the game could probably stand to be replaced but let's get it working first.

As usual, confirm all this stuff with the schematics. It's early and I'm not perfect ;)
 
And shes up! Played a couple games, All the solenoids and switches work. There are a few bulbs out, a loose connector on the 3p scoreboard making it blink unless i hold it, and 1 digit out on the 4p scoreboard. Other than that, all looks good!

Thanks for the schematics and the push in the right direction to see how those schematics were written up :)
 
Let me get this straight:

1st pinball machine for you is part of a bulk buy. Won't boot. You troubleshoot using schematics from other games with similar architecture. BlahBlah voltages BlahBlah rectifier BlahBlah Ed from GPE. And you get it working the same day?

Jealous. Have fun!
 
Yup, that about sums it up! Now Dolly's got all new rubbers and new shiny balls (sounds wrong on several levels....) and some new light bulbs (So all the lights are on!) and ill start looking for a trade on it shortly :)
 
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