First Monitor Recap

tobyocc

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Ok,

Saturday I will attempt a wg k7600 recap, flyback and HOT replacement( Bob Roberts Kit). I have minimal soldering skill but I am a pretty quick learner. All I ask is some small pieces of advice that might keep me from chucking the thing against a wall. Thanks and wish me luck.

Toby
 
do you have a good soldering iron (not a $3 one)
solder sucker, or wick

With mine, I did 1 cap at a time, making sure which side had the negative, even though the board lists it, people say the boards are screen wrong sometimes.

It isn't that hard, I think my first one took 2 1/2 to 3 hours, but I was too thorough to play it safe. came out good
 
While I haven't done a WG yet, I recently just did my first too. I didn't know how to solder before hand, so I got a small broken circuit board for practice. I also watched Youtube videos on soldering and removing components from boards.

Just double and triple check that you have each cap matching the polarity of the cap you just removed- like Tron guy said.

Also it would be handy to have a digital camera on hand to take pictures of areas before you disassemble wires or remove parts. I came in handy for me when two wires came loose from their solder points in roughly the same area. Had I not had a picture to refer to I would have soldered them on the wrong points.

I'd definitely inspect every board component as you go, because sometimes monitor problems can stem from other area than bad caps.

Inspect all other solder joints and make sure they look good, because it's better to do that now then have to break down the monitor again.
 
Thanks.

I do have a ok soldering iron. I also have a solder sucker. I had planned on taking a ton of pictures before and as I go. I will take my time and if I have to just do a couple a day thats fine. I am in no big hurry. Any other suggestions will be appreciated.

Toby
 
Taking your time is the key. Its good that you're not in a hurry. It helps if you lay out each cap on something like styrofoam so you can stick it in and label it with the uf, voltage and cap number of each one. Do one cap at a time like the other guys said. Pull out the old cap and make check it value against the new one you will be installing. Remember you may pull out a cap that rated for 16 volts and the one you are installing is rated at 25 volts, that's ok, volts can go up. So when you install the new cap, take your time and make sure that the pos is where it should go. The longer lead on the cap is positive and the neg side of the cap body is marked. When you stick the cap in the holes, slightly bend the leads out on the other side to hold it in place. Remember when you solder, you are heating up the the pad and the lead, don't touch the solder right to the iron.
You should also have a good pair of small flush cutters to cut off the excess leads after soldering.
Don't forget, you need to discharge the monitor and remove the 2nd anode before pulling the chassis. Its not too bad to do, but be careful.
 
Oh yeah.

There are some radial caps that don't have a positive or negative. On my Sanyo EZ there were 2 caps like this. The original caps on my monitor were labeled "N.P." The caps I got were called "Bi-Polarity" or B.P. Just so you know- they are the same thing. Even if one lead on the new cap is longer than the other it doesn't matter. 90%-100% of the caps you are replacing have positive and negative leads, but just in case you come across the odd cap that isn't, just giving you a heads up.
 
If the HOT has a mica insulator between it and the metal frame piece over the flyback, then you MUST make sure it is in place when installing the new HOT. Otherwise you'll just blow up the HOT when you power it up.

Check C36 for shorts while you're rebuilding it.

Inspect the entire thing for cold solder joints. Just wiggle any part that sticks up more than 1/4" and watch the solder joints on the bottom board. If you see ANY movement, or just think you do, reflow or add a little solder there....
 
If the HOT has a mica insulator between it and the metal frame piece over the flyback, then you MUST make sure it is in place when installing the new HOT. Otherwise you'll just blow up the HOT when you power it up.

Check C36 for shorts while you're rebuilding it.

Inspect the entire thing for cold solder joints. Just wiggle any part that sticks up more than 1/4" and watch the solder joints on the bottom board. If you see ANY movement, or just think you do, reflow or add a little solder there....

Does C36 not come with the kit ?
 
do you have a good soldering iron (not a $3 one)
solder sucker, or wick

With mine, I did 1 cap at a time, making sure which side had the negative, even though the board lists it, people say the boards are screen wrong sometimes.

It isn't that hard, I think my first one took 2 1/2 to 3 hours, but I was too thorough to play it safe. came out good


Use a solder wick , its way easier to use !!
 
Does C36 not come with the kit ?

C36 is a four-legged mylar Critical Safety Cap located under the metal L-frame behind the flyback and HOT. Sometimes it shorts out, taking the HOT with it.

Bob Roberts does carry it, but it's not usually included in the K7000 cap kits because it is not electrolytic...
 
Ok so I am removing the neck board it looks like the pictures below I did not force it. The pins on the neck look ok. Am I OK?
 

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Couple more things and pics of chassis. The red and black that go from the flyback to the neck board do those get spliced to the existing red and black on the neck board?
 

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