First Cap Kit - complete!!! PIX DK Junior

smello

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Thanks to all of you giving me tips regarding a cap kit in a monitor. I was not happy with my monitor before. I just got done installing the caps in my Sanyo Nintendo monitor.
It was a success! It is soooo much better now. It was a bitch trying to figure out how to remove the board. I was going to remove the whole monitor, but was not really sure of the best method to do so, I just removed the monitor PCB from the chassis.

This seems to be the best I can adjust it to, can't really get it to fill the whole screen vertically. Oh well.

Couple of questions....
1. I was in such a rush too see if I wrecked or fixed my monitor, I installed the board again without redoing the audio board as well. The audio still works fine though. If I wanted to rebuild the audio board, would I have to discharge the monitor again? Can I leave the anode in the tube?

2. I forgot to hook up a ground wire that is on the right side of the PCB (looking at it from the back). It just get's screwed into the chassis part. Should I discharge if I were to put the screw back in? I circled the wire yellow in the picture and the screw hole red.

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You do not need to discharge to rebuild the audio section, or to hook up the ground wire.

You may want to turn the brightness down to get a nicer black. Sometimes after a cap kit on a Sanyo you may need to turn the sub-brightness down on the chassis.
 
I know nothing about these monitors, one day I'll have to re-cap a couple of mine, but for now...

I imagine these have an adjustable horizontal width coil on them. since the monitor's mounted vertically, note that the "vertical" and "horizontal" are opposite. you might have to adjust the horizontal width coil to get it to fill the screen vertically. it's worth noting that you cannot use metal tools to adjust the width coil... not because it'll zap you I hear, but because it gets absurdly hot.

and I wouldn't worry about having to repeatedly discharge various parts. the only one you ever need to be concerned with is the anode, and a few select capacitors on various monitors can hold enough of a charge to give you a nice zap. but the ground wire shouldn't matter. if it worries you much, you could just power the game off before screwing it back on.

the sound amp likewise shouldn't require you to discharge the anode, I don't know if that hooks in any other way than probably a power source. I honestly don't even know what it looks like, lol, shows how much I know about these. :) between my Popeye and PC-10 and the 2 other monitors I got I should probably learn how to muck with them someday.

awesome job though, cap kits aren't very painful at all now are they?

as something of an ambassador to all the newbies on the site, I like to relate to things like this on a noob frame of mind... was there anything in particular on these Sanyos that you had to do that was unconventional to any other cap job? the experts have kind of alluded to these being somewhat of a bitch to work on, but it couldn't have been that bad if it was your first cap job and you didn't blow it up. :)

EDIT: judging by another EZ thread, there's probably a H-size pot... start there (I wasn't sure if it had one or not, some old monitors don't), don't go messing with the width coil if you don't have to I guess.
 
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Nice job. One day I might actually get the guts to do one, but I've had to pay guys to do other things on my games, so a couple of extra bucks to do the caps seemed like a good investment.
 
Nice job. One day I might actually get the guts to do one, but I've had to pay guys to do other things on my games, so a couple of extra bucks to do the caps seemed like a good investment.

I was really skeptical at first too! I watched 3 youtube videos and took a shot, it turned out well for me just like the OP of this thread.
 
Nice job. One day I might actually get the guts to do one, but I've had to pay guys to do other things on my games, so a couple of extra bucks to do the caps seemed like a good investment.

You do fillings all day...a little bit of work on ancient electronics is EASY by comparison.
 
You do not need to discharge to rebuild the audio section, or to hook up the ground wire.

You may want to turn the brightness down to get a nicer black. Sometimes after a cap kit on a Sanyo you may need to turn the sub-brightness down on the chassis.

I was adjusting the brightness here, is that the sub-brightness control? It's kinda hard to do when you have to walk around to the front.
 

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was there anything in particular on these Sanyos that you had to do that was unconventional to any other cap job? the experts have kind of alluded to these being somewhat of a bitch to work on, but it couldn't have been that bad if it was your first cap job and you didn't blow it up. :)

The hardest part I think was getting the monitor PCB out of the chassis. Removing and replacing the caps was pretty straight forward, just alot of them... So many wires to plug back in.....

There was a spark and a noise when I discharged the tube before reinserting the anode.
 
That is the brightness pot, the sub-brightness pot is on the chassis over by the h hold toward the upper right as you are looking at it.

Sanyo20EZ-1-1.jpg
 
That is the brightness pot, the sub-brightness pot is on the chassis over by the h hold toward the upper right as you are looking at it.

Sanyo20EZ-1-1.jpg

Should one be used more than the other, or is it just if one doesn't change the brightness enough you use the other one too?
 
You have 3 brightness controls
Master brightness on the flyback
Sub-brightness on the chassis
Brightness on the remote board

Think of them as... coarse, medium, fine.

Center the brightness, and adjust the sub-brightness. If you have to turn the sub-brightness more than half way in either direction, center it and adjust the master brightness on the fly.

Hope that makes sense.
 
You have 3 brightness controls
Master brightness on the flyback
Sub-brightness on the chassis
Brightness on the remote board

Think of them as... coarse, medium, fine.

Center the brightness, and adjust the sub-brightness. If you have to turn the sub-brightness more than half way in either direction, center it and adjust the master brightness on the fly.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks!

It makes sense and I'll try it later tonight.
 
Nice job, a successful cap kit is a great feeling.

I saw you mentioned you could not adjust the picture to fill the entire monitor area; if I remember correctly the Sanyos always have a little bit of empty space even if the picture is adjusted correctly. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
 
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