Firepower right flipper issue

DMT29

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Donor 5 years: 2018-2021, 2023
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Just rebuilt both flippers. Right side (lane change) works great. Left flipper did work good for awhile, meaning a week or so. Became very weak and now barely moves to EOS.

EOS switch is right on.
New coil (old one was no good) with 24V

Driver board issues?
 
Just rebuilt both flippers. Right side (lane change) works great. Left flipper did work good for awhile, meaning a week or so. Became very weak and now barely moves to EOS.

EOS switch is right on.
New coil (old one was no good) with 24V

Driver board issues?
Maybe, maybe not.

Swap coils. If the problem moves, bad coil.
If the problem doesn't move, bad drivers. However, drivers fail or fail open (locked on, smoke the coil), seldom do they "get weak." At least in my experience.

Are your EOS and contacts clean and tight?
 
Maybe, maybe not.

Swap coils. If the problem moves, bad coil.
If the problem doesn't move, bad drivers. However, drivers fail or fail open (locked on, smoke the coil), seldom do they "get weak." At least in my experience.

Are your EOS and contacts clean and tight?
Yes, new switch. Got it adjusted pretty perfect. I'll try moving coils around and see results.
 
Yes, new switch. Got it adjusted pretty perfect. I'll try moving coils around and see results.
What's "pretty perfect?"

Do you have a contact adjustment tool?
 
If the flipper was working ok and is now weak but the EOS contact is ok, it sounds like your primary winding is gone. Make sure the contact is opening properly at the end of stroke or it will quickly burn out the primary coil or melt the insert. Most likely the flipper is just working from the holding winding.
Both left and right flippers are driven from a pair of contacts in one relay on the driver board. It uses separate contacts on the relay for the left and right side. So, a weak flipper is not a bad driver like a playfield coil can be.
It is worth checking that the 2 pins on the driver board connector for the left and right flippers are making good contact. From memory right flipper is 2P12 pin 1 and left flipper is 2P12 pin 2.
 
If the flipper was working ok and is now weak but the EOS contact is ok, it sounds like your primary winding is gone. Make sure the contact is opening properly at the end of stroke or it will quickly burn out the primary coil or melt the insert. Most likely the flipper is just working from the holding winding.
Both left and right flippers are driven from a pair of contacts in one relay on the driver board. It uses separate contacts on the relay for the left and right side. So, a weak flipper is not a bad driver like a playfield coil can be.
It is worth checking that the 2 pins on the driver board connector for the left and right flippers are making good contact. From memory right flipper is 2P12 pin 1 and left flipper is 2P12 pin 2.
Awesome thanks. I'll check the pins. Also planning on popping in another coil.
 
If the flipper was working ok and is now weak but the EOS contact is ok, it sounds like your primary winding is gone. Make sure the contact is opening properly at the end of stroke or it will quickly burn out the primary coil or melt the insert. Most likely the flipper is just working from the holding winding.
Both left and right flippers are driven from a pair of contacts in one relay on the driver board. It uses separate contacts on the relay for the left and right side. So, a weak flipper is not a bad driver like a playfield coil can be.
It is worth checking that the 2 pins on the driver board connector for the left and right flippers are making good contact. From memory right flipper is 2P12 pin 1 and left flipper is 2P12 pin 2.
Pulled out the schematic. 2P12, pin 1 and 2 is correct (y) Connector/pins looked good. Might test continuity from connector back. Popped in a new (old) coil I had laying around. No improvement. I will say coil was probably bad....plunger moved freely but sleeve was met with resistance about halfway through.

Neglected to say earlier....the "fire" and "power" lights dim when either flipper button is pressed.
 
If you are trying to check the wiring for the flippers, here is the full flow through all connecters:
1. One side of the flipper coil (with cathode of diode) gets B+ power from the power supply (via 3P3-4 and then 8P2-23).
2. The centre tap of the coil is wired to the EOS switch and onto the other side of the coil.
3. That other side of the coil (with anode of diode) goes to 8P3-3 then to 7P1-8 and then the flipper button.
4. Other side of flipper button goes to 7P1-8 and up to 2P12-1.
5. The relay contact enables the flipper circuits by grounding that return line when the flipper coil is activated.

So the circuit flow is +ve goes to flipper coil then onto flipper switch then onto relay contact which connects it to ground when relay is energized to complete the circuit.

"Fire" and "Power" lamps are part of the lamp matrix. If they dim more from the left flipper operating compared to the right flipper, then there could be a wiring problem or faulty coil. A coil with shorted turns will draw more current than normal when it is activated.

Make sure to visually check (with the playfield up) that the EOS contacts are open with a noticeable gap when the flipper is activated and pulls into the holding position. If the contacts are to close and do not open properly the coil will get damaged very quickly from overheating. Coil failure may not be obvious depending on what gives way first. Things like melted former or insert, shorted turns or open winding all stem from the primary winding overheating.
 
Have also read various things on the 2.2 uF cap. Is it necessary to hold the extra voltage?
 
Might be a silly question....just noticed that plunger, when energized, does not hit the coil stop. Kinda of bottoms out on the coil sleeve. Possible someone put in the wrong bracket/stop? Shouldn't the plunger physically hit the stop?
 
Might be a silly question....just noticed that plunger, when energized, does not hit the coil stop. Kinda of bottoms out on the coil sleeve. Possible someone put in the wrong bracket/stop? Shouldn't the plunger physically hit the stop?
Yes, plunger should reach the coil stopper. If you search for the Williams 1980 parts catalogue you will find pictures and part numbers of the assembly on pages 5-2, 5-3.
In original Firepower the coil stop was part of the bracket assembly. If it has a removal coil backstop bracket it is not the original one and someone has changed or modified the flipper assembly. They may have also used the wrong plunger.
 
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