Finally found a Joust - and it's great

Test AC ripple voltage to see if it's doing its job.
Might also test capacitance if you have an accurate meter that measures 6800uF.
 
Hook your capacitor up to rated voltage momentarily and measure in-rush current. From there, you can calculate impedance. With impedance, you can calculate capacitance.
Where capacitance= 1 divided by(2*pi*Frequency*Impedance).
 
Hook your capacitor up to rated voltage momentarily and measure in-rush current. From there, you can calculate impedance. With impedance, you can calculate capacitance.
Where capacitance= 1 divided by(2*pi*Frequency*Impedance).

Whats the frequency you use here? I think that equation only works in AC circuit analysis, but Networks was many many years ago haha.
 
WOW.. that cabinet is in beautiful shape! Nice score. i picked up a Joust as well about 2 months ago. Pretty good shape, but BIG scratches / gouges on both sides. monitor is crisp and clear and the sound is perfect!

congrats on the new ADD... a game you can play over and over and over.
 
I'm going to match a Run through MI and WI again.
I'd be great to have these registered at Joustmaster.com
 
I have not forgotten about this thread. My boards are out with a friend right now, and have been repaired. Just waiting on them to be shipped back.

Sit tight!
 
Really jealous of your new game :)

Just a heads up, I'm originally from the White Bear Lake, Minnesota area, the next time I am back home I may hit you up, would love to come by and see your collection!
 
Double post.

I know the feeling pf trying to get a Joust. I went years of the game being on the top of my short list. I finally got one early this year and am still pretty happy with it.
 
Bumping this back up.

I have my boardset back in hand now, and I'm still having trouble with it. Issue seems to be with the power supply board. I'm missing 5v.

Maybe someone here can help me put some fresh eyes on it.

So here's where we are at with it:

  • connectors replaced
  • capacitors replaced
  • voltage regulators and sockets replaced
  • bridge rectifier replaced, heat sink added
  • swapped the crowbar transistors, problem persists (rules them out as bad)

I almost feel like maybe I should start at the top. What to check first? I'd really like to get this game going again.
 
I'm no repair wiz, but I did the recap/rebuild kit on a Williams PS and was missing a voltage. If you look at the schematic for a particular voltage, there aren't a ton of components. I checked continuity through the circuit and found a break from the top to bottom of a hole at the biggest radial cap on the board. Pulled it, replaced it with another so I had so lead on top, soldered from top also, bada bing. It's gotta be something simple.
 
I'm no repair wiz, but I did the recap/rebuild kit on a Williams PS and was missing a voltage. If you look at the schematic for a particular voltage, there aren't a ton of components. I checked continuity through the circuit and found a break from the top to bottom of a hole at the biggest radial cap on the board. Pulled it, replaced it with another so I had so lead on top, soldered from top also, bada bing. It's gotta be something simple.

The 5v LED flickers on for a split sec, then goes out. So I don't think a break is the issue.
 
I had a similar issue when I rebuilt my cocktail PS. Although mine never flickered. I just didn't come on.

I made a few mi$take$ along the way. But the main one is to make sure to solder the top and bottom of all components that you replace.

The main problem though was the new transistor on the heat sink that was bad. I re-used the old one and I had the 5V again.

You should post in the general repair section or PM Mecca.
 
I had a similar issue when I rebuilt my cocktail PS. Although mine never flickered. I just didn't come on.

I made a few mi$take$ along the way. But the main one is to make sure to solder the top and bottom of all components that you replace.

The main problem though was the new transistor on the heat sink that was bad. I re-used the old one and I had the 5V again.

TOTALLY what I'm thinking. I kept my old parts, so I'm going to check there next.
 
Have you checked the 2N6057 darlington on the heatsink?

EDIT: Marty beat me to it.
 

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When I re-used the old ones I just put both back as part of my elimination process.
 
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