Final Fight K7000 Monitor Problem

Ahh well I'm just looking at the schematic and it doesn't list C69 anywhere. I'm not in front of the board so it might have one but I doubt it. Do you know where on the PCB C69 would bo if I had one?

Yeah my C36 crit safety cap had 4 legs, I got the replacement from Bob Roberts and did the bridge mod.
 
Went over the board last night re-soldering all the parts that had been removed and inspecting things. I found that D16 was cracked but still reads fine. I will replace it and D19-D22 and see what what happens. Built the lightbulb fuse replacement too. I didn't have time to finish the board and test it with the lightbulb yet, will do that tomorrow.
 
Just remember that the lightbulb fuse adds a massive amount of resistance. Once you sort the issues, remember to replace with an actual fuse before testing voltages.
 
Ok I replaced D19, D20, D21, D22, and D23, D24 with new parts. I also replaced D16 (was cracked) and D17. I plugged in my lightbulb fuse and powered it up, bulb lights up bright! Turned it off quickly. There's a short somewhere but everything I have tested so far tests good.
 
Ok I replaced D19, D20, D21, D22, and D23, D24 with new parts. I also replaced D16 (was cracked) and D17. I plugged in my lightbulb fuse and powered it up, bulb lights up bright! Turned it off quickly. There's a short somewhere but everything I have tested so far tests good.

MAYBE you have a short somewhere. Try putting a regular fuse in and see if it blows. One fuse is worth checking....
 
I had the light bulb fuse in the video board fuse location, after removing it and putting in a normal fuse the cabinet fuse blows instantly (just like it was before).
 
Aha! Okay, this is probably cool. Here's what I would do:

1) remove the harness from the board, just in case.

2) remove the AC power going in to the power supply.

3) Remove power from the marquee fixture.

4) Replace the FAST BLOW main cabinet fuse and replace it with a slo-blo, 5A. If you don't have one, just use a nail. Normally I wouldn't suggest this, but because the monitor is already fused, this should be okay.

At this point the only powered thing in this cabinet SHOULD be your isolation transformer.

5) use the lightbulb fuse on the monitor, or replace the fuse. If you use the lightbulb, and it comes on bright, just wait a second, it'll probably go dim and the monitor will fire up.


Here's my guess: the fast blow fuse is being stressed way past its blowing point almost immediately. 3A is pretty low, and that sudden draw could certainly kill it right away. At the very minimum it should be a 3A slo-blo so it has recovery time.

With nothing else hooked up, the only point of failure at this point is the monitor. If you use the lightbulb fuse it might take a second to come on as the caps charge. Of course, kill the power right away if anything starts to smoke.
 
1. Harness is disconnected.

2. AC Power is going to DC switching supply, I will disconnect.

3. Marquee is not powered.

4. I am pretty sure 3A fast blow is the correct and original fuse in this cabinet. Wasn't blowing for the previous owner and the fuse looked old when I removed it after it started blowing.

It doesn't blow the cab fuse when using the lightbulb, the bulb just gets really bright. I can try again and leave it on for 30 seconds and see if the light gets dim but this seems like a dead end to me.

I am beginning to suspect flyback failure as Ken Layton had this happen to him.
 
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