Fast blow fuse supplying power to monitor with onboard SB fuse?

rmcelwee

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Fast blow fuse supplying power to monitor with onboard SB fuse?

I have two upright Afterburner cabinets. Both were non-working when purchased. I have two manuals for the game (both scans from KLOV Museum). Page #28 on the "Upright Owners Manual alternative" manual indicates a 5 position fuse block with 2A SB fuses supplying power to the monitor. Page #15 on the "Owners Manual" indicates a 2 position fuse block with 5A FB and 6A FB supplying power to the monitor. Both my cabs have two position fuse blocks with FB fuses in them. Does it make sense that a K7900 monitor chassis with an onboard 1.5A SB fuse is being supplied with a 5 or 6A FB fuse in the cabinet? I'm trying to get the monitor working and keep blowing the cabinet fuse. From what I can see, one of the fuses in the two position fuse block is just for the monitor power. Am I just blowing them because they are the wrong type?
 
i would try it without the monitor hooked up to make sure its the monitor that is truly blowing the fuse or not.
 
i would try it without the monitor hooked up to make sure its the monitor that is truly blowing the fuse or not.

Thanks! I already tried that. Game plays blind with no problems. I am wondering if it is my degaussing coil that is blowing the fuse (evidence of that - not relevant at this time) so I will try again without the coil hooked up as soon as I figure out the correct fuse rating.
 
I couldn't wait any longer so I put a 3A SB fuse in the cab, disconnected the degaussing coil and fired up the game. Nope, the SB fuse blew as well. I think I have a problem with the chassis. I will swap out the filter cap and HOT as suggested by someone and see if that helps.


EDIT: I did try one other thing. It was suggested that since the cab fuse was blowing but not the chassis fuse there may be a short somehow BEFORE the chassis fuse. I pulled the chassis fuse and fired it up. The cab fuse did not blow. Not sure why the chassis fuse (1.5A SB) does not blow instead of the cab fuse (3A SB).
 
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have you tried the monitor chassis in another game to see if it blow the fuse there or try another monitor in this game?
 
have you tried the monitor chassis in another game to see if it blow the fuse there or try another monitor in this game?

No, it always seems like I am just a few minutes away from fixing it so there was no reason to. If I had known I was going to be working on it for 3 weeks I would have done it a little differently.
 
No, it always seems like I am just a few minutes away from fixing it so there was no reason to. If I had known I was going to be working on it for 3 weeks I would have done it a little differently.

i am sure a ton of us including me have spent way too much time chasing our tails assuming something without taking alittle bit of time to isolate it to a definite area such as game board, monitor, power supply or other.... i have seen too many times the tail chasing going on because people get in a hurry and start diagnostics somewhere in the middle. :)
 
It was suggested that I check C57 for short and if shorted I should remove C36 and check again. Yes, it was shorted and when C36 was removed the short went away. I changed out C36 safety cap but the problem did not go away.
 
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