Fast and Furious wiring problem **SOLVED**

Sirsalt

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Got the PC setup and went to install it in the cab. Realized I'm missing some cables according to the manual. The conversion manual doesn't have much detail. Anyone know what these missing cables do?
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I know the blue circled one on that pcb is for the fan, which I have. No clue where the other 2 go. In the pic of the PC, the circled cable is the one I'm missing.
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Downloaded the dedicated manual, which has the schematics for all the boards. That's the "USB Fuse Watchdog PCB". And as I expected one of the previous owners removed that harness, and I'm assuming lost it. I can make one, no prob, now that I know the pinouts.

Electronicsfix here on klov mentioned bypassing the Watchdog PCB. That may be something I'll look into. for now going to make the harness and see what happens.
 
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From what I'm reading in the schematic, I think I can eliminate that inline pc harness and run a switcher to the watchdog PCB's P1 header. Heck, it looks like I can just run a switcher to the P6 and P9 harness plugs and totally eliminate the watchdog PCB. Wouldn't be able to soft boot from the cab, but I can live without that.

I'll hook it up OEM first and see what happens.
 
I can check my fast and furious this weekend if you want.

If you could, that would be great! I'd like to see where the cable coming out of the PC goes on the watchdog pcb.
 
After doing some testing with my MM on the watchdog pcb, I was able to make a custom harness to run off one of the PC's power connectors. My harness basically bypasses the internal in-line harness and runs through the fused 5v and 12v line on the watchdog pc. Bypassing the watchdog logic.

This worked great for getting the cab running. Everything powers up with the cab main power button. The steering calibration if failing, so I still can't test/play the game. Looks like a bad pot (hopefully). Damn close to getting this bad boy running!
 
FWIW, the other end of that 8 or 10 pin connector that plugs into the back of your PC plugs into those two connectors on the watchdog board. That harness does a few things.

1. Provides power the the watchdog board which then goes out to pots and what not (could be why your steering is failing).

2. Send +5 standby from the PC's supply to that board. That board then turns the PC on.

Yeah you can run the computer without that board in place but if your using the factory wiring harness your not going to get +5/+12 to many of the devices in the cab that needs it.
 
FWIW, the other end of that 8 or 10 pin connector that plugs into the back of your PC plugs into those two connectors on the watchdog board. That harness does a few things.

1. Provides power the the watchdog board which then goes out to pots and what not (could be why your steering is failing).

2. Send +5 standby from the PC's supply to that board. That board then turns the PC on.

Yeah you can run the computer without that board in place but if your using the factory wiring harness your not going to get +5/+12 to many of the devices in the cab that needs it.

The watchdog has 2 separate functions. Soft power the PC and send +5 +12 to the rest of the rig. that's why there are 2 input plugs on that PCB. My custom cable Plugs into the 8 pin input that supplies the +5 and +12 and ground through the watchdog's fused +5 and +12 line. I have nothing plugged into the soft power input. I also removed the inline power cable inside the PC. This takes all watchdog soft power management out of the equation. My custom cable plugs into one of the drive power cables from the PC power supply to get the +5 and +12 to the watchdog. I'm only bypassing the soft power portion of the watchdog. So the watchdog can't control the PC power anymore. This results in not being able to reboot from the menus and the game can't shutdown the system if it decides there's a problem that requires a shutdown or reboot. I did my research and testing before I ran power to anything.

The steering is failing because the same a$$hat that removed/lost the watchdog cable, also totally removed the steering pot bracket. I discovered this when I opened the control panel to test the pot. The motor is working, trying to calibrate, but since there's absolutely no pot connected (because the bracket was totally removed) it fails because the values never change.

All that being said, I'm now able to start a game and drive straight (gas pedal is working fine). Sound is working great too. Looks like making a custom steering pot bracket will be added to my things to do to this machine. Some of the $hit people do to these machine makes me scratch my head....

I'll be making a complete watchdog cable this week. The bypass cable was just to get it up and running to make sure the game worked 100% before I sunk any more time an money into getting it installed in a sit down cab.

Appreciate the input, though. All help and suggestions are definitely taken into consideration. I feel I have a pretty good grasp on this hardware now. Which was one of the reason I bought it.
 
Happ controls has that bracket but you have to order a minimum of $100 in parts. :(
 
Didn't feel like spending $100 at HAPP, so I bought this 10 minutes from my house for $200.

A person at a birthday party, at the arcade Saturday, said they were looking to sell a non working CUSA for $200. I said "I'll take it!"

Just hooked a pot to the FFTD harness, and it calibrated fine, and game played fine.

Now to convert the CUSA.....
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Got her up and running!

Coincidentally a customer, out of the blue, asked if I wanted to buy a non working Cruis'n USA last weekend. I bought it and installed the FFD kit into it. Had to do some part swaps to get ot 100% working. Need to replace some broken bittons, but other than that it's up and running outside the arcade.

Project was a success. I have a firm grasp of the FF hardware and a cool sit down for the arcade!
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