F**K!!! Mexican customs drilled into my MVS cart and ruined it!!

Why would you buy a FATAL FURY MVS cart from MEXICO?

Aren't those pretty easy to find State side?

You're right but It's cause the AD said that the item is located in Saint Paul, Arkansas, United States. He does mention that he ships from Mexico, but when I messaged him, he said that he has other people helping him send out Stateside and it will come from the USA. If I knew that, I wouldn't have bought from there. Not to say it's bad to buy from Mexico or other places in the world, but it avoids problems when you keep it closer to home
 
My money is on someone drilling into a cab at some point and hitting the cart, seller may or may not have even bothered looking/testing, or knew and just happened to not fight you on a refund.
I can't see a customs agent anywhere busting out a drill on something like that, something that DOES have easy access.

Oh and ditto on drilling locks with a hammer drill, completely unnecessary. Just a good cobalt bit with some cutting/tapping fluid is all you need.
 
My money is on someone drilling into a cab at some point and hitting the cart, seller may or may not have even bothered looking/testing, or knew and just happened to not fight you on a refund.
I can't see a customs agent anywhere busting out a drill on something like that, something that DOES have easy access.

Oh and ditto on drilling locks with a hammer drill, completely unnecessary. Just a good cobalt bit with some cutting/tapping fluid is all you need.

The hell with it, just want this damn game working. Kinda DO wanna try the hammerdrill just for shits...I have to wait until I get another cab
 
Damn well at least you got your money back, a game that you can probably make work, and a hell of a story.

cas92OO.png
 
Damn well at least you got your money back, a game that you can probably make work, and a hell of a story.

cas92OO.png

LMAO! That's funny. There a few people that want to take a shot at fixing it. I will let you all know, or just buy another one. Great pic! Very creative
 
The board can be repaired easy enough without the jumpers you are using in the video (which BTW you are using wire that is way too big). If you are going to use jumper wires you should use 22 gauge at the biggest - generally the wire should be no bigger then the original trace and in all honestly in this case you could use wire wrap wire for jumpers. The smaller the jumper wire the better (plus it would need less heat to solder there by reducing risk of heat damage).

If I was closer I would do it (and show you how to) for nothing. ;) Use to do lots of boards repairs back in the late 80's when I worked in the electronics service industry (still do the odd board repair, but not much anymore unless it is hobby related).
 
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The board can be repaired easy enough without the jumpers you are using in the video (which BTW you are using wire that is way too big). If you are going to use jumper wires you should use 22 gauge at the biggest - generally the wire should be no bigger then the original trace and in all honestly in this case you could use wire wrap wire for jumpers. The smaller the jumper wire the better (plus it would need less heat to solder there by reducing risk of heat damage).

If I was closer I would do it (and show you how to) for nothing. ;) Use to do lots of boards repairs back in the late 80's when I worked in the electronics service industry (still do the odd board repair, but not much anymore unless it is hobby related).

Ya, that's consistent feedback I have been getting. You're right. Too think and hard to work with with those wires. Thanks for the consideration on wanting to help me fix the MVS board.

Steve
 
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