Ez 20ez question

racer2e

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Well, I'm hoping it's easy. I just capped my 20ez and I have a wire I don't remember unplugging. It is a very small red wire coming from the main board right next to d214. It is about one foot long, and has a tiny 3 cavity connector with only one female pin in it. The connector is stamped AB. Any ideas?
Thanks, Jayme
 
I do have an inverter board, and it has a connector it would fit on, but I'm pretty sure that was where the small shielded wire that comes from pins 21 and pin w on the pcb cage was connected.
Jayme
 
Well you would be wrong young Jedi. The AB designation on the connector, should tell you that it goes to the AB header on the inverter board.
 
And of course you are correct. After I looked a little closer I discovered that I do not have an inverter board, and what I assumed was the inverter was the audio amp. I knew you would know, the challenge is making me understand.
Thanks for your help. This thing is no longer squished, and now too bright.
Jayme.
 
You MUST check the B+ AND reset the Brightness after a cap kit on a 20EZV.

1. Center Brightness pot VR351
2. Center Sub-Brightness pot VR301
3. Center Master Brightness pot on the flyback
4. Measure and adjust the B+ to 108vdc

Adjust brightness with VR351, if too bright center VR351 and adjust brightness with VR301.

Basically, use VR301 for the coarse brightness and fine tune with VR351.
 
B+ is measured at BJ/TP91 and ajusted with VR601. Width is adjusted using the Horizontal width coil and a plastic adjustment tool. VR354 will control the vertical size, which may be what you are referring to as width.
 
It's width unfortunately. Now I have to find a plastic adjustment tool. I don't suppose radio shack has them. Also any ideas on speaker hum? The audio is pretty loud so I have to turn it way down, but I do get a very noticable hum.
Jayme
 
Crap Shack used to carry them, but you will not find an employee that has a clue. They are called TV alignment tools. Ken Layton posted the Crap Shack part numbers a couple of times.

Hum - There are two schools of thought here. Some say that ALL Nintendos have a hum. I usually find that the shielded audio cable is bad, or that the power supply needs to be recapped.
 
I don't know that I've encountered a Nintendo cab that didn't have some hum. My DK had loud annoying hum until I recapped that sound board on the monitor. Now it's there, but not too noticable. - Barry
 
Ok regarding the horizontal width issue, I picked up a set of tv alignment tools (my local radio shack had three sets marked down to 97 cents) but after setting B+ and trying to adjust the horizontal width coil it's still too narrow. I still have about 1 1/2 inches on each side not being used. The width coil only seems to change it about a 1/4 inch. What now, new horizontal width coil?
 
The Sanyo 20EZV will NOT fill the whole screen widthwise. An inch and a half on each side sounds about right for max width.

To be clear, in a DK or DKjr that would be 1 1/2" at the top and bottom of the screen. (roughly)
 
Thanks Ken. Since this monitor is the original ( I think) is there anything else I should do before I start trying width caps? Is it normal for the width coil to have such a small adjustment range?
Jayme
 
The Sanyo 20EZV will NOT fill the whole screen widthwise. An inch and a half on each side sounds about right for max width.

To be clear, in a DK or DKjr that would be 1 1/2" at the top and bottom of the screen. (roughly)

Let's see a pic of what you have, and then we can tell you if it is normal or not.
 
Dokert, that could be my problem. I've been playing my mario bros with a vertically squished screen for about a year, so maybe I'm just so used to it that it looks to narrow now that it is full height.
 
Mario Bros should have about 1 1/2" unusable part on each side of the monitor if it is centered correctly.

Perfectly normal.
 
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