Environmental Discs of tron EDOT help

sfbaybeef

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I recently purchased an edot and want to do a great restoration on unit but before i work on the pretty stuff I need to get the guts working. The game board works fine but as many of you might know it has SEVERAL other boards to control things that don't seem to be working. Lamp sequencer, squawk and talk, -5v aux, 2 amps, flourescent flasher, 2 relay boards, power supply and mcrII. In a nutshell the sequencing lamps do not work but there is some voltages going to board, the voice board has voltage but at tp4 there is no -5v and it has 1.98v instead, the power supply has been replaced with the arcade shop power supply adapter and a heavy duty power supply, both of the background flourescent lights have the standby power but none will turn on except when i run my hands across the wires making an inductive current but then they turn back off when they are supposed to, the flashing flourescent lights run but do not flash. In the test mode none of the lights respond to tests and voices do not activate, the -5v aux board is not outputting -5v. LOL I don't have a clue where to start but I have stripped the cabinet down of all the removeable decorative parts and am having high resolution scans done of the floor, lower floor back light circuit panel, lower backglass(upper was missing :(....), two plexi background pieces, light sequencer panels, lower marquee panel, bezel and background translite. I know that thisoldgame is going to be reproducing the bezel, lower tron backlite, background translite and is reproducing the side art, and the control panel light bezel and someone else is reproducing the bezel glass bracket and someone is reproducing the glass side panels(I bought two sets) and someone is reproducing the head bumbers(i've requested 4). I figure I will post a link to dropbox the scans i get done in case someone wants to have their local screen printer attempt some of the pieces not yet reproduced. I'm going to try to reproduce the back grid/marquee glass with a local outfit and possibly the floor decal. I have one of the lenticular marquees in good condition and was goin to try to have a scan done on the reverse of the lenticular print but not sure if that is possible. there is a company that specializes in lenticular prints and is not too crazy in prices but the original image is required to duplicate it. anyone have an old master copy? I have another EDOT that is cut and I'm thinking of trying to recreate the back half and make it removeable for ease of transportation. So any help on the questions I listed would be appreciated especially where the electronics are concerned. I'm hoping to get this done before california extreme and take it there for people to play.
 
not sure what the ? or "help" needed here is but heres a list of what Ive got, Have done, or plan to do for EDOT. Before any time or money is spent on scans/art

-Side Art (complete now available
-Blk light cover (still have a few more orders to get out)
-Translights (shipping this week)
-Large Backglass (will start taking orders in about a week)
-Cpos (now in production completly this month)
-Floor Matt (Scans/art printing completed-printing Next month)
-Floor LIght Cover (Scans/Art completed-printng next month)

-Top grid glass (need scans)
-Metal retainer w/art (Fizgig allready has done this one or is in production now.)
 
I bought two of the side art kits and two of the blacklight covers from you and will buy two of the translights, two of the cpos, two of the floor decals when those become available. Of course the one thing I didn't have to scan was the grid glass or I'd send it to you. my tron guy glass is in good condition except for a couple spots in the black around the edges but I'm going to order one of these anyway in case i do try to reconstruct the back half of the unit on the cut edot. I was just going to scrape those bad areas off and use black glass paint to fill it in then spray silver behind it like they did to make it opaque and reflective. there has to be someone who has a good grid glass that they can get scanned and post. are you going to do the light sequencer panels? I have one good set and one busted set.
my request for help and questions are mainly with the electronics of the unit.
 
What an experience this has been. I've managed to figure out many of the electronics problems on my own and with some help on here. Some things I figured out:

1) garbage around moving images. reseated chips and all images crisp and clear.

2) #1 Light sequencer not working at all. replaced the 5 transistors with the cross-legged tip 122's. #2 light sequencer 2 bulbs stuck on. replaced chip at u1 fixed the stuck on lights. replaced all 5 transistors with tips 122's cross-legged and works now.

3) No sound from squalk and talk. there is a separate board below the main power supply that generates the -5 power needed to run speach. did not repair board but wired it into the heavy duty switching power supply.

4) power supply not working. Bought arcade shops heavy duty switching power supply and their power adapter. This works ONLY for the UPRIGHT discs of tron NOT for the EDOT as a plug and play converter. It does not have a plug for the Squalk and Talk speach board -5 power AND it does not have any connection for the AC Sync needed for the flourescent flasher board. The flasher issue took me forever to figure out. I ended up reinstalling the orginal power supply and running a jumper wire from the original to the arcade shop board.

5) I'm stuck still on the flourescent flasher system. Now that the relays are clicking when they are supposed to the lights don't always light up. It is not the main transformer on the fixtures but possibly on the 6v warmup transformer or possibly the relay boards. I have tried a few different relays between the two machines I have and they all do the same thing. The relay boards have some resistors and caps on there that might be bad? anyone else figure this issue out?

6) grid glass....I debated on waiting for this to be reproduced but went ahead and created the vector artwork for this piece by pictures, direct measurements and whatever I could find on the internet. I am going to have 25 screen printed onto tempered glass. 20 on 3/16" thick glass and 5 on 3/8" thicker glass. I will keep 3 for me and sell the rest on ebay to recoop my costs for making this.

7 floor decal....again I'm debating on waiting for this but I already made the vectorized image and could have it screen printed but it might be tough to match the colors in flourescent.

I want my unit done for california extreme so rushing it. Any help on the flashers would be appreciated.
 
some low rez samples
 

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I'll buy a grid glass!
OK, looks like Rich is moving forward with these sooner than I though, so I would like to retract my request. I'll get one from Rich to match my lower glass.

On your relay boards, you can swap the wires from the top board (flashers) and the bottom board (background lights) to see if there is any change. That might help eliminate the components on the boards as a source of trouble. I just installed new relays in mine, which are NTE R12-1705-12N. Oddly, one of the new relays tests good but does not work correctly in the game. The other one works great, so I have some more testing to do.
 
Ya I'm debating on making the grid glass even though they are virtually identical. I did pretty good recreating the art considering I didn't have any scan to go off of. I am wondering though if the text is accurate. Is the text in all caps or in partial caps and partial lower case? I still can't find any info on the 6v warmup transformers. my cut edot has all the 6v transformers removed and normal constant on fs-2 starters. I know I can use modern fluorescent fixture with instant on circuitry and rewire the relay to use this to produce the same effect but I'd still like to stay as original as possible. I am considering that even though the relays are clicking at appropriate times, the contacts might not be making good contact and that might be the reason for the erratic working sometimes and sometimes not.
 
Text on the grid glass was a mix.. some caps, some lower case, some bold, some not.
 
the grid glass art i did has the following in font ariel bold on left: ©MCMLXXXIII Bally Midway MFG. CO. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ....and on right: ©MCMLXXXIII Walt Disney Productions

is this correct for upper case vs. lower case and can you tell me which is in bold and which is regular?

and is there a silver background for the entire area other than the grid and where the lenticular is visible?

thanks
 
I've already sent my vector art of this that was based on a scan of my grid glass to Rich at thisoldgame and i'm pretty sure he's in flight printing these now. Not sure i'd spend too much time replicating efforts, but your decision I guess.

but to clarify the question, my particular game is as follows:

<bold>©MCMLXXXIII BALLY MIDWAY MFG. CO. <end bold>ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

©MCMLXXXIII WALT DISNEY PRODUCTIONS


There is no lower case on my game. However, I have seen a couple locals machines that differ from mine in that 'Walt Disney Productions' is mixed case but both of theirs are the same with the bally midway copyright line. At some point in time, I believe the copyright/legal was altered at least once during production. I let rich know that the lower case version seems to be the more common and he can make the decision to adjust or not.

I guess it's just yet another example of how there is no 'right' when it comes to arcade art as there's just too many changes and suppliers that must have been making parts as they were originally manufactured.
 
I've ordered my sideart from rich and am still waiting for the curved control panel light piece and translight. I'm picking up the tron guy backglass at cax. I just ordered the grid glass, floor decal and control panel decal. i didn't know he was going to be reproducing these this soon until after I had started working on vectorizing high rez images I had someone do for me of the pieces i had. there are only two other pieces I hope get done...the light sequencer panels and the bezel. one of the 4 sequencer panels I have is cracked and one of the bezels is really faded. my goal is still to have one edot completed for cax for people to play. the last three I went to i didn't see one there.
 
I'm in the middle of the same thing actually.. duelling EDOT restores! I'm hoping to get mine done in time for the Gamewarp show here in orlando next month but I don't think it will be done unfortunately.

The one part that nobody has on the repro list that I dearly need is the chaser panels (the ones above the monitor bezel). For some strange reason, those are completely missing from my EDOT and i'm not even 100% sure what they look like. I also don't know if anyone's done the right and left inner red grid art by the monitor..
 
I have a high rez photo of the chaser panel. i can email it to you but you would need to vectorize it and take it to a screen printer. it's pretty simple and i think they are identical for left and right. I also have a low rez picture of the inner red/orange grid side panels I can email you. although you might ask rich if he is planning on doing these or would do them for you special order. if you vectorize it to scale then screen printers could print it with fluorescent inks on cardboard and you could cut it out.

I had a breakthrough tonight on the flashing fluorescents. My issue is the relays for sure. Even though they are clicking appropriately the contacts inside were dirty and pitted. I cut open the metal cases on the originals around the base where they are basically soldered together. I used a magnifying lense to look at them and could see how bad they were. On a leap of faith I removed the spring and slid the contactor mechanism out and used a small flat file to make smooth surfaces on both sides of the contactors(stationary and moving) and bent the contacts down to make a stronger bond when engaged(very important). they all work perfectly now. new contacts will obviously achieve the same result but this saves money and answers my question. geeze a month of troubleshooting all the electronics in this thing.
 
I had a breakthrough tonight on the flashing fluorescents. My issue is the relays for sure. Even though they are clicking appropriately the contacts inside were dirty and pitted. I cut open the metal cases on the originals around the base where they are basically soldered together. I used a magnifying lense to look at them and could see how bad they were. On a leap of faith I removed the spring and slid the contactor mechanism out and used a small flat file to make smooth surfaces on both sides of the contactors(stationary and moving) and bent the contacts down to make a stronger bond when engaged(very important). they all work perfectly now. new contacts will obviously achieve the same result but this saves money and answers my question. geeze a month of troubleshooting all the electronics in this thing.
Nice work! If you decide to order new, they were around $15 each.
 
you guys talking about these?
If you guys want em to dp them SF can you send me your cracked one?
So I can match material, size, and color
and if ProK is willing to laser cut a routing jig for me or laser the pieces
I can do these pretty quick and easy.

Also is it the same piece for both sides or is the pattern flipped?
the art sets off to one side and not center. So Im not sure how they install
other then the obviuos screw holes.

Ive allready vectored and color sperated the art
EDOTchaserScan.jpg

EDOTchaserVector.jpg
 
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rich i can send you my cracked one. i know you said you are going to be doing the lower floor circuit panel but will you be doing the interior monitor glass bezel too?
 
Are the decals a pain to install?

And has anyone got detailed photos of this machine?
Seems it has tons of bits.
 
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