EM Power / Power Play Power Supply - schematics?

TheMaze

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So it's looking like my $40 Mortal Kombat has more problems than the seller claimed...I'm not surprised.

There's an EM Power Power Play power supply in it. This is NOT the Power Play 150 that looks like a PC power supply - this a "black brick" unit. Best I can tell, EM Power no longer exists, and all the information I've found online seems to be for the Power Play 150 unit (which is not what I have).

Does anyone have schematics for this power supply? Or at least know the value of R17 - it's burnt to a crisp.

Thanks!
 
Sorry, I don't have any schematics and don't know who has any.

That repair guide I wrote several years ago is the only information I have on the "Power Play" power supplies.
 
Sorry for the extreme thread necro here, but I just ran into this same issue and have come up with an answer.

My R17 was fried, located it while replacing a capactior nearby (don't have the board position of the cap, sorry)... it was a 47uf 50v and it was way bad (no readings on ESR or DVM cap test).

R17 was reading 1.55k Ohm, and was visibly fried. I could read the first two colors and the last color... Definitely Brown, Black, Something, Gold. So I knew it was 1 0 something 5%. The something was sadly critical. I decided to start with 1K ohm as I figured that would be safer. Tested it with no result (no power output), switched to the 100 ohm (next step) and still no power output.

At this point, I realized that the AC input pins were badly cracked at the board. Repaired those pins and re-touched all of the other pins for good measure but didn't re-install the 1K Ohm, stuck with the 100 Ohm, immediately released the magic blue smoke from the resistor upon power up.

Switched back to the 1K Ohm, and all was well. Had rock solid output and has been stable for about an hour or two. Sadly, this was on a friend's machine so I had limited time for testing. I will say that the resistor didn't seem to be unnaturally hot, further confirming to me that 1K was the right value.

After some experimentation, I am going to confirm via educated deduction and blue smoke testing that 1K Ohm appears to be the proper value for R17 on this power supply.
 
Thanks - I actually still have the broken supply, so will try the resistor and see if it comes back to life.

Take a close look at the 47uf/50v capacitor that's nearby as well. As I mentioned, mine was completely bad.

Also, scour the board for solder issues. I also found a few components with cracked solder, etc.

Good luck!
 
I just got a "Power Play 2000" power supply made by EM Direct in for repair today. It is an "XT" computer style in a black painted case and with a built in pushbutton (red colored) power switch. It also has red and green LEDs installed on the side of the case.

I will try to get more information compiled on this power supply and maybe get some pictures.

EDIT: Added pictures
 

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R17 is originally a 1.5k @ 1/4 watt. I just looked on the one I'm working on and it's definitely been cooking. You can replace it with a half watt rating one.

Be sure to also check/replace capacitor C11 (47 uf @ 50v) near R17. You'll probably find this cap has been physically leaking too.
 

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You need to temporarily disconnect the white, black, and green wires going to the AC power service outlet. Then take pliers and squeeze the retaining tabs on the service outlet and remove the outlet. This is so you can access the corner screw holding the circuit board. There are two very tiny black plastic insulating washer underneath the circuit board, between the board and the metal threaded mounting posts. The foil traces on the board are so close to the edge of the board and should not be grounded. The washers prevent grounding these traces.
 

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The fan wires aren't very long. I cut and re-splice them with small gray wire nuts to make future fan repairs/replacement much easier. Oh yes, be sure to pop the back plug cover off the fan and oil the fan. I use a razor knife to cut through the label and pop off the hole plug. Then I use a piece of Scotch tape to cover the hole plug to prevent it from falling off after I'm finished with the fan.

The fan is 80mm square and operates on 12 volts DC.
 

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