Electrohome 13'' CBO/FBO

Yodamingus

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Just picked up a atari cocktail with a dead monitor
Elecrohome G07 13''
Found that it has a blown fuse at F901

Trying to find info on this chassis and everywhere i look it refers to
G07 FBO for the 13'' and G07 CBO for the 19''

But on this 13'' monitor Both on the tube and the chassis its labeled G07 CBO

Questions ...Whats the difference between the two ?
I know the flyback is different .. this one is labeled
A29951-b ..051798.. TH
Manual says this flyback is for the 19''
is it possable they modified the chassis from the factory to
work with the 13'' tube ?
 
G07

Since is didnt work when you got it...
Is it possible that the previous owner dropped the CBO in hoping it would work?
Did it look like it was just put in (Anode dirt disturbed, etc...)
 
Game (crystal castles cocktail)seems all original
Found in a basement of a house in CT
Guy was not a collector and it didn't seem like any work
Had been done to the game at all

As far as the anode cup ..I don't know
It would make sense that someone just swapped the chassis

But the thing that throws me off is the tag on the tube and the frame
Says ..13colormon ..GO7 CBO chassis

And the flyback has a different part number in the manual between the 2 sizes

i got the cbo cap kit flyback and hot
And will just assume it's a straight CBO

maybe cross reference the difference in the manual
And as I replace the parts ..
 

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Here it is..
 

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looks like a cb0 chassis to me.

the FBO does NOT have a B+ adjustment pot.

I suppose it's possible they made a 13" version of the cbo (for some reason).

I say rebuild it, plug it back in and see what happens.

You'll need a new flyback and cap kit. Possibly the HOT. (definitely the fuse)
 
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I did not know that

the flybacks are interchangeable.

I know the flybacks have different part numbers and that you cannot find the 13" anymore, but I did not know you could use a 19" on a 13".

I rebuilt a 13" last year and used Bob's width kit, but did not change the Flyback. Now I am wondering if I should replace it... Argggggg......

I am interested to see what happens
 
Right
I had watched a TNT vid about a millipede cocktail
And he was saying he modified the chassis to make it fit corectly

But here's a 13" seemingly from the factory with the CBO
Wondering if is modified ..from the factory in any way
 
This is very interesting. I just took a peek at three different CBO's to do a stare & compare against your photos. It sure looks like a 19" CBO in every way except that yours is missing the little transformer at T503, a beefy resistor at R514, and the obvious fuse.

On my 19", R514's value is 820 ohm @ 5%. Service manual specs out R514 metal oxide, 820 ohm, 5% 2 watt for 19" and metal oxide, 680 ohm, 5%, 2 watt for 13". Yours is empty. Is it jumpered or modified on the solder side?

Looks to me like you have two jumpers in the transformer location.

Your neckboard is identical to my 19" and I can see SU3032A printed on it. The manual calls for a different neckboard number SU3016A for 13". Check out page 11 and apparently they got the titles and PCB layout images reversed.

I think Tron Guy's course of action is what I would try. I also suggest lifting R908 to see how close it is to 47K as I have found two of them that were open in recent rebuilds.

Whelp, just trying to help and am interested to see if that is in fact a factory mod to work on a 13" tube. I've never seen an FBO myself so please take my noobness with a grain or six of salt. Good luck!
 

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Interesting. I was thinking that the frame looked like it was for a countertop/gambling machine, but it has the Atari cocktail serial number sticker on it, so it's factory.

There should be a p/n on the flyback. Normal 19" is A29951-B, 13" is A19183-A.

There isn't concensus on whether the -CBO fly is correct for a -FBO chassis. Some have observed significantly higher HV (which means x-ray emission and a smaller image), others haven't.
 
I have a 13" G07 I needed to fix for someone and I got one of the Raster Blaster kits from Arcadecup. enclosed with it were additional poly caps for adjusting the increased HV from the 19" flyback. where I'm totally stuck is I don't have an HV probe. oh, and before I did anything to it, it would chirp to life and immediately shut down. that's a bad X701 right, guy of tron?
 
I have a 13" G07 I needed to fix for someone and I got one of the Raster Blaster kits from Arcadecup. enclosed with it were additional poly caps for adjusting the increased HV from the 19" flyback. where I'm totally stuck is I don't have an HV probe. oh, and before I did anything to it, it would chirp to life and immediately shut down. that's a bad X701 right, guy of tron?

I haven't worked on many of the fbo's. With the cbo, if you are in hv shutdown, I pull x701 and see if I now have a picture or not.

The flowchart leads you through pretty well after that.
 
No, they are NOT interchangable - danger X-RAY risk!

the flybacks are interchangeable.

Dangerous advice. The 13" monitor used a different flyback for a reason - reduced HV to the picture tube to eliminate X-Rays. If you use a 19" flyback in a 13" monitor you are operating outside the safety limits of the design.

See my earlier posting here for details.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=402191
 
In a word, no, you can't safely use a 19" flyback for 13"

Todd,

Did the 19" Flyback work in the 13" you rebuilt (Youtube)

While it works visually it is putting out X-RAYs at a level that was way outside the design specs for the picture tube. Your testicles or ovaries are running a serious risk of being irradiated with excessive X-RAYs.

See my previous posting:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=402191
 
Are we doing a xray thread again?

Because it's been about what 3+months since the last one???

How much for the damned meter anyway?

(Popcorn gif)
 
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