Ebay Arcade Purchase- Rebuilt Sanyo 20EZ Monitor went from great, to OK, to black! :(

dkatiemom

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Ebay Arcade Purchase- Rebuilt Sanyo 20EZ Monitor went from great, to OK, to black! :(

This is my first post- Thanks so much for reading, and Merry Christmas!

Okay, I dropped a chunk of change on a beautiful Donkey Kong Jr. cabinet (with the 60- game board) with a freshly rebuilt Sanyo 20EZ monitor, new buttons, new light bar, T-Joint (whatever that is)...it looked and sounded wonderful. The guy was super nice, too

Received it 3 days ago via Fedex freight. I didn't even take it off the pallet, just gently pushed it to a side wall in the garage and plugged it in. The monitor initialized and it was all GREAT! We were in arcade heaven.

At first it worked GREAT. Colors vivid, just super. Yesterday night I was watching my son play and noticed about a 5-inch semicircle at the top of the screen that almost looked like...fading? The colors were still there, but in that area were washed out as compared to the rest of the screen.

This morning, after opening a few presents, we of course make a beeline for the game and the monitor is black.

* We left it plugged in continuously since receiving it (is this bad?)
* The temp outside went from 70 to upper 20's in a little over 24 hours (first snow over Christmas in Dallas in over 80 years!). - I have to say that the garage was at no time really that cold. Yep, it was cool, but you could be barefoot and did not need a coat or anything to be in it.
*Machine was placed against an outside facing wall (wood/brick exterior).
*By manipulating the buttons we can hear sounds and games will start, but the monitor is just completely black.
*Light bar across the top of cabinet works beautifully.

I have read all of the threads about cold garages...being a newcomer to the arcade world, we had no idea this would even be an issue. Could the temp change really do that over the course of a day or two? It was plugged in the entire time.

Any help is MUCH appreciated. We've never been so excited or in love with a purchase in our lives, and this has made for a horrible experience.
 
When receiving games that have been shipped, even if it is only across town it is wise to open the back and make sure nothing came loose. With the machine unplugged, it is best to make sure all of the connectors are firmly seated. In your case, I would check to make sure that the neck board on the monitor is seated on the tube good.

Once you have verified that everything is seated good, then you can start troubleshooting if the problem still persists.

When storing games in a garage, where the temp rises and falls quite a bit the monitor sweating or developing moisture is of concern.

Leaving a game plugged in "should" not be an issue at all.
 
I am a lay-person, so forgive me for that. But should that be happening in a monitor described as follows?

"This game works 100%. The picture is perfect on this newly rebuilt original Sanyo 20ez monitor. It is sharp, vibrant, bright, and beautiful."

Does this sound like a problem due to temperature, or possibly this was a problem before we even got the machine a few days ago?

I just thought this would last more than a few days. Very disappointed!
 
Probably not, but as Dokert says it's very easy for connections to come loose in shipping. Sometimes things that work great one minute, fail the next. Open the back door and have a look. Do this with the power off. Post detailed pics if you can and someone here will probably be able to help. - Barry
 
It could be a temp issue that caused your problem, but you will not know anything until you open the back and take a look.

I don't personally know the seller or their experience rebuilding Sanyo 20EZV's, so there is really no way to judge if the game came that way.

With the machine unplugged, open the back, there is a silver box covering the neck board and tube portion of the monitor. It is held in place by 2 phillips screws, remove the 2 screws, and slide the box up and off exposing the neck board. Gently but frimly push the neck board to ensure that it is seated on the tube. Re-install the cover and see if the game now works.
 
Did you leave the game turned on over night ? It should be ok to do that but personally I would never do that. I don't really like leaving mine on unattended for more than 30 minutes or so. You just never know when something might happen. If it worked for a bit and then crapped out, it was probably a crappy rebuild job or the flyback like previously mentioned.
 
We slid off the metal plate and it was seated properly. I photographed what we saw there. Thank you for all of your comments- if you see something in these pics, feel free to chime in- I'd love it!
 

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Pics are always good. Although I don't see anything positively bad on the flyback, it does look pretty rough. There is no industry standard for rebuilding 30 year old monitors, so the flyback not being replaced on a Sanyo 20EZV is not out of line.

Look closely at the monitor board and you will see 2 fuses. 1 is 1 1/4 inch long and the other is 20mm long (about half the size of the big one). Pull both fuses and test them to see if they are good. Most likely the little one will be blown.
 
The temp change was not likely the cause. Many people have games in the garage and they are just fine. These things are old and they fail sometimes. If you have a reasonable level of electro/mechanical skill you will likely be able to fix it yourself, if not you should be able to find a tech in your area to help. There is a nice flowchart to help you out if you can read a meter.

Here is a link to the chart...



http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=111041
 
yeah Dave, looking at the few caps in the pics , they look like they have been replaced , I know what you mean about the fly , nothing oozingly evident , may be as simple as a shorted internal winding. still i do belive a HOT and fly are in order
 
Take a look at this pic attached:

Why is that connector unplugged?

Can we get some better shots of the left hand side of the video board where we can see the connectors better?

RM
 

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yeah Dave, looking at the few caps in the pics , they look like they have been replaced , I know what you mean about the fly , nothing oozingly evident , may be as simple as a shorted internal winding. still i do belive a HOT and fly are in order

I agree, it may be time for a HOT and a Fly.

Take a look at this pic attached:

Why is that connector unplugged?

Can we get some better shots of the left hand side of the video board where we can see the connectors better?

RM

No need Russ. It has a 60-1 in it. The connector goes to the sound amp which is not there or needed any longer.
 
No need Russ. It has a 60-1 in it. The connector goes to the sound amp which is not there or needed any longer.

Ah - you called that one.

On the other had, it doesn't mean the H and V yoke connectors are not loose.

If this has a 60-in-1, how are they doing the video inverter?

Maybe that connection has come loose.

RM
 
You may well have a KLOVer that lives in your area that could assist you with this. What city are in?




.
 
Ah - you called that one.

On the other had, it doesn't mean the H and V yoke connectors are not loose.

If this has a 60-in-1, how are they doing the video inverter?

Maybe that connection has come loose.

RM

Can't tell from the pics provided, which is why I suggested testing the fuses. If the fly and or HOT is bad the little fuse will be blown. If neither fuse is blown, I would say they are still looking for a connection problem.

There could even be a connection problem with the video inverter that must be located someplace in the cab.
 
The temp change was not likely the cause. Many people have games in the garage and they are just fine. These things are old and they fail sometimes. If you have a reasonable level of electro/mechanical skill you will likely be able to fix it yourself, if not you should be able to find a tech in your area to help. There is a nice flowchart to help you out if you can read a meter.

Here is a link to the chart...

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=111041

Maybe we're overlooking something... Let's first establish whether the monitor is powering up in the first place. If it's not getting power, it can't even try to power up - probably just a loose connection. If it's getting power and failing to power up, then it's got a problem.

Things I'd check:

1) Plug machine in. Does the monitor "crackle" like a TV set sometimes does?

2) The neck of the monitor - is there a red/orange glow when the game's plugged in?

3) That little fuse in the picture - is it blown, or intact? (Without a meter, and with the game unplugged, you can pop that fuse out and visually inspect it. If it's blown, I'll bet the answers to #1 and #2 were both "no". That doesn't mean that replacing the fuse will fix the problem, but it means we know your monitor has power, and is trying to power up. Get one or two replacements at Fry's, Radio Shack, an AV/audio/automotive repair shop.)

After #3, you're onto the flowchart. There's nothing there that we can't walk you through here, as long as you're prepared to drop $10-20 on a cheap multimeter available at any Radio Shack. (The multimeter can come in handy for other things, like testing batteries from everything to your flashlight to your car, safely confirming that an outlet is off (or back on!) when you throw a breaker switch, etc...) No home with an arcade machine should be without one.
 
WOW! You all are amazing! :)

I will post a few more pics in the AM and check out what you mentioned. I will also get the fuse at "The Shack"(lol) tomorrow morning.

Funny, I powered it up with the cabinet door off and looked and listened carefully. I don't want to say there was a "hiss", because it was more like that static-crackle sound (though faint) from the monitor area, sort of what you would hear from an old TV. Absolutely no light in the monitor area at all, no faint glow, nothing.

Thanks again.
 
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