Dynamo HS-9 - Please Post Yours + Info

@DonPanetta I found a few pics of a PT-9 I restored a while back you might want for your gallery. It is side by side with an HS-9 for easy comparison. An interesting thing about these clones is they have a bottom of the upper section for the monitor chassis to sit on. The CRT is held in place with a plywood frame - they do not use a traditional metal frame. The base divides the top and bottom halves and adds more support to the weakest point of the HS-9 design where they often got screws and bolts to prevent flexing and movement.
 

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@DonPanetta I found a few pics of a PT-9 I restored a while back you might want for your gallery. It is side by side with an HS-9 for easy comparison. An interesting thing about these clones is they have a bottom of the upper section for the monitor chassis to sit on. The CRT is held in place with a plywood frame - they do not use a traditional metal frame. The base divides the top and bottom halves and adds more support to the weakest point of the HS-9 design where they often got screws and bolts to prevent flexing and movement.

Awesome, I will add those pics to the gallery right now. I also noticed that there seems to be two revisions of the PT-9. One with the XT/LPX power supply cutout and one without the cutout.

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This cabinet was in pretty bad shape when o took it on trade. This is after a complete restoration. I'm waiting on some chassis repairs for a 19" CRT but in the meantime here it is with LCD.
 

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I like my HS-9 but I want to put Street Fighter 2 in it and can't find anywhere with dimensions for the SF2 control panel layout for the HS1/2/9 cabs (the control panels are interchangeable). Ideally I'd buy a pre-cut control panel but if I could find the dimensions I'd fill the one I have and re-drill it.

So after digging through some stuff i finally found my panel. I can confirm this is an original Dynamo HS1,2,8,9 2-player 6-button panel. I traced out the button hole pattern using two pieces of thick cardstock type paper. I scanned the paper in 3 sections and i have managed to stitch the images together. I guess the only hurdle now is getting this into CAD in order to make a more accurate image.

Anyone here good with CAD that would want to make this happen? I can provide my scanned and stitched image along with any measurements one would need to get this going.
 
Any chance you could post the image. That would help me out. I can't make them into cad but with my measurements I should be able to determine where my buttons go.
 
Any chance you could post the image. That would help me out. I can't make them into cad but with my measurements I should be able to determine where my buttons go.

It's about 60 megs uncompressed. Link via limewire (it lives again!)
 
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I did a quick render of the panel and measured everything out. The measurements are accurate but the drawing is not so DO NOT just print this and use it as a drilling template. Perhaps someone with more skill can make it print accurate.

Notes
  • All Holes are 1.150 inches. Verified with a micrometer
  • Since i don't have an easy way to find the center of a hole each time on a real panel, i measured to the edge of the hole.
  • Every measurement shorter than 8 inches was verified with a micrometer and accurate to a hundredths of an inch.
  • Because of the radius at the front of the panel, all vertical measurements are based off of the back of the panel just above the player 1 and 2 start button locations going forward (the top of the plans)
  • Panel top measures 23 11/16x 8
  • If you are cutting a new metal or plastic overlay for your existing panel then you need to reduce your panel to 7 3/4" height as the final 1/4" begins the panel's radius.
 

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i had this light blue HS9 with a K7000 and it was painted poorly black. Ugly roller marks and drippings on the side so I stripped it down to the original light blue then Its been sitting for a couple of years. it came with a Capcom 6 panel but was converted poorly to a Multicade with an Arcade SD which I wanted. The machine was $500 so I bought it years ago. Ive been trying To move machines that wont stay iny permanent collection.

A Customer wanted a Pandora build but not with the light blue so I panted it Panda themed and got the CE Graphics it needed to feel complete.

I will color match and repaint the front as well as change out the front strips of T-molding.

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Picked this empty HS-9 up with the led tmolding, I laughed at it at first but with the right game it's pretty cool. I put a 27" WG D9400 in it and a Sega Naomi system with MVC2. Still need to work on the scrapes and scuff marks.
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How the heck does a 29" fit in there??? Geez! But yeah needs a proper CPO also. Of course do the big build tasks before cosmetics.
 
How the heck does a 29" fit in there??? Geez! But yeah needs a proper CPO also. Of course do the big build tasks before cosmetics.
Woops meant 27", the manual says 29 but it's a 27" viewing size. This cabinet has the top and bottom wood planks that you mount the crt to. I replaced the top plank with one I cut into shape that allowed the extra length.

Yup I already got the CPO, buttons, joysticks and new plexi. Though I haven't paid too much attention with this one since I've been working on a candy cab recently.
 
Woops meant 27", the manual says 29 but it's a 27" viewing size. This cabinet has the top and bottom wood planks that you mount the crt to. I replaced the top plank with one I cut into shape that allowed the extra length.

Yup I already got the CPO, buttons, joysticks and new plexi. Though I haven't paid too much attention with this one since I've been working on a candy cab recently.

Do you have the Dynamo HS-9 manual?
 
Yup I saw that, TYVM

I was never a fan of the HS9 with the 5, 2s and 27s being my top choices right now, BUT this Panda B/W has grown on me. Its going to a nice couple that just bought a new home so I did lots of little things to make it nicer for them.

Got to appreciate couples that game together...
 
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