Dynamo HS-5's

Robomayhem

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Are a real pain in the azz to rewire!!!!!!!!!! :mad:

I picked up one in nice shape, but it had basically been gutted; the wiring was there, but the connectors, including the JAMMA connector, had been cutoff. So since the marquee and CP on it are for a Turkey Hunting game, I would like to return it to that. Well let's just say that I haven't cussed that much doing a job since the time I had to replace a CV joint in my Escort in a foot of snow at the end of my driveway. Seriously considering putting my 6" holesaw to use on that dam self!

Left to do:
Hook up the speakers
Mount a isolation transformer - don't know where yet..
Run 12 volts to the coin door
Hook up the AC - needs a new cord
Run power the marquee
Get a proper connector to plug the shotgun into the PCB - need a 10 pin..

After that, I then can find out if the monitor and or the gun work ..lol.

A big thanks to the KLOVers who have hooked me up with the parts to get the ball rolling on this game.
 
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Oh that's because the power source is not on the slide out shelf anymore? I ran into similar problems restoring my brother's HS-5. I had a hard time seeing what I was doing and unscrewing the coin-door was a pain in it'self. Doing my HS-2 was such a breeze since I can access it from many different angles, and the power source is right on the slide out shelf. Good luck.
 
Oh that's because the power source is not on the slide out shelf anymore? I ran into similar problems restoring my brother's HS-5. I had a hard time seeing what I was doing and unscrewing the coin-door was a pain in it'self. Doing my HS-2 was such a breeze since I can access it from many different angles, and the power source is right on the slide out shelf. Good luck.

Thanx, I have mounted the new switcher on the pull-out shelf. It's the limited access to be able to route the wires going anywhere other the coin door and CP. It would be REAL nice to able to pull the back door off.
 
Thanx, I have mounted the new switcher on the pull-out shelf. It's the limited access to be able to route the wires going anywhere other the coin door and CP. It would be REAL nice to able to pull the back door off.

The HS-5 model really went backwards in the design IMHO. I hear you about the back door issue. There is only that tiny door in the back that you can only access the back of the monitor from, and it's so jumbled back there too not giving you any play room. Just wondering... Do you still have the height platform that makes the machine taller?
 
The HS-5 model really went backwards in the design IMHO. I hear you about the back door issue. There is only that tiny door in the back that you can only access the back of the monitor from, and it's so jumbled back there too not giving you any play room. Just wondering... Do you still have the height platform that makes the machine taller?

I don't think so, it is sitting beside an HS-2, and is no taller, I believe.
 
I never had a problem with my HS-5. Take the monitor out if you are re-wriring it is easy to do and will make your job easier.
 
I never had a problem with my HS-5. Take the monitor out if you are re-wriring it is easy to do and will make your job easier.

Hmm, I take it the monitor shelf sides out with the monitor then? I'll have to look into that tomorrow. Thanx :)
 
Hmm, I take it the monitor shelf sides out with the monitor then? I'll have to look into that tomorrow. Thanx :)

Are you sure you have a HS-5? The monitor isn't on a shelf, it is just bolted in with 4 bolts. The chassis should be connected to the monitor. Just take the glass and bezel off and you will see the 4 bolts. You can see my cabinet with the monitor out in this video:



Here you can see the old monitor (K7000) mounted before I swapped it out.

 
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The plate stamped on the front of the cab says it is an HS-5.

I will check it out tomorrow, as it's around 30 degrees out side right now, so the unattached garage at my girlies's place isn't going to be much warmer.
 
Oh yeah, take out the monitor. If you think that is bad try working on a Koam "Neo Geo Big Red" hahahaha

KOAM 1up'd their pain in the ass factor with the Z-Backs. I love them...and hate them. The hate part is trying to work or even tweak monitors still inside the cabinet. Believe it or not, the monitor access panel in the back of these cabinets are even narrower than the Neo Geo cabinets. I dunno wtf they were thinking with that.
 
KOAM 1up'd their pain in the ass factor with the Z-Backs. I love them...and hate them. The hate part is trying to work or even tweak monitors still inside the cabinet. Believe it or not, the monitor access panel in the back of these cabinets are even narrower than the Neo Geo cabinets. I dunno wtf they were thinking with that.

Say it ain't so! That is my next acquisition.

If it's a CRT it needs an ISO
 
As I recall it, normally the hs5 had a cutout in the back of the cabinet to mount the power supply so that the power on/off button would be accessible through the small hole on the right side of the cab about halfway down. Also, the iso transformer was also mounted on the back wall of the cabinet. As posted earlier, remove the monitor, and you'll have a much easier time of gaining access to where you need to get at.
 
As I recall it, normally the hs5 had a cutout in the back of the cabinet to mount the power supply so that the power on/off button would be accessible through the small hole on the right side of the cab about halfway down. Also, the iso transformer was also mounted on the back wall of the cabinet. As posted earlier, remove the monitor, and you'll have a much easier time of gaining access to where you need to get at.

Yes that is how mine is. Mine still has the iso, it is not connected to the eygo monitor. It caused interference in the image, and since the monitor didn't need it I bypassed it.
 
+1 on take out the monitor I had mine out in about 50 seconds.

Doesn't hurt to have an extra set of hands getting it in and out
 
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