Dumb questions

da66en

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So I've had this 25" standard res monitor/chassis for a few months and I've played with it on and off. Thanks to everyone here who's answered my problems so far.

But I'm still not happy with it. Here's my problems (and these are probably dumb questions).

1.) when screen is bright (showing nearly all white) picture gets out of focus. All aluminum electrolytic caps have been replaced. Flyback has not (haven't looked for a replacement yet).

2.) screen is at a slant, like a rhombus.

3.) the glass in front of the monitor is tinted. It's a pretty dark tint. Is that normal? I was thinking of replacing the glass - but not sure if the tint was doing anything like blocking UV or something. (Like I said, dumb questions here).

4.) horizontal size is too big, and a small portion of it wraps back on top of itself. If I adjust the 'horizontal hold' pot then the portion that fold's over moves from the left side of the monitor to the right. If adjust the 'horizontal size' pot then horizontal size of the screen adjusts but that portion of the screen still folds over. Adjusting the horizontal coil has no effect. I am not entirely sure that it's turning, it might be frozen.

Chassis is a Kortek/Korean "A-One". I haven't found much info about it. I have been ArcArc's Sharp Image 134 info as a reference since my chassis seems pretty close to that (apparently Sharp Image bought Kortek or Kortek's designs?)

Thanks for your help.
 
I don't know anything about your monitor model, in specific, but I'll take a stap at a few items...

So I've had this 25" standard res monitor/chassis for a few months and I've played with it on and off. Thanks to everyone here who's answered my problems so far.

But I'm still not happy with it. Here's my problems (and these are probably dumb questions).

1.) when screen is bright (showing nearly all white) picture gets out of focus. All aluminum electrolytic caps have been replaced. Flyback has not (haven't looked for a replacement yet).

That's what happens when the guns are over-driven. To me, it looks like "bleeding" (from left to right when in conventional orientation.) Try turning down the brightness/contrast/screen, or the individual gain pots for each color on the neckboard.

2.) screen is at a slant, like a rhombus.

That's a geometry problem. If new caps didn't fix it, I'm not sure what to say. Perhaps the chassis has an adjustment for that...

3.) the glass in front of the monitor is tinted. It's a pretty dark tint. Is that normal? I was thinking of replacing the glass - but not sure if the tint was doing anything like blocking UV or something. (Like I said, dumb questions here).

No, it's not there to block UV... I'd guess that much dark tinted plexi was installed to try covering up bad burn-in. What game/cabinet is it?

4.) horizontal size is too big, and a small portion of it wraps back on top of itself. If I adjust the 'horizontal hold' pot then the portion that fold's over moves from the left side of the monitor to the right. If adjust the 'horizontal size' pot then horizontal size of the screen adjusts but that portion of the screen still folds over. Adjusting the horizontal coil has no effect. I am not entirely sure that it's turning, it might be frozen.

Chassis is a Kortek/Korean "A-One". I haven't found much info about it. I have been ArcArc's Sharp Image 134 info as a reference since my chassis seems pretty close to that (apparently Sharp Image bought Kortek or Kortek's designs?)

Thanks for your help.
 
That's what happens when the guns are over-driven. To me, it looks like "bleeding" (from left to right when in conventional orientation.) Try turning down the brightness/contrast/screen, or the individual gain pots for each color on the neckboard.

Thanks for taking the time to respond! I tried turning down gain pots and this problem seems to have gone away. I thought I had tried this, but apparently not. So, thanks!


That's a geometry problem. If new caps didn't fix it, I'm not sure what to say. Perhaps the chassis has an adjustment for that...

Unfortunately there is no such pot. There are 2 pots I don't know what they do. One is labeled 'V-Drive' and is near the RGB connector. Another is labeled 'VR1' and looks like it's near a section near AC, maybe the AC to DC conversion. Since I don't have a schematic for a service manual or schematic I am not entirely sure what they do, but some time I was hoping to review the PCB better to figure it out.

Since I cannot find any schematics, service manual or parts I was thinking about ditching this chassis and getting this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-R...ultDomain_0&hash=item19ca3ec42e#ht_783wt_1039

Does anyone have any comments about that?
 
Thanks for taking the time to respond! I tried turning down gain pots and this problem seems to have gone away. I thought I had tried this, but apparently not. So, thanks!




Unfortunately there is no such pot. There are 2 pots I don't know what they do. One is labeled 'V-Drive' and is near the RGB connector. Another is labeled 'VR1' and looks like it's near a section near AC, maybe the AC to DC conversion. Since I don't have a schematic for a service manual or schematic I am not entirely sure what they do, but some time I was hoping to review the PCB better to figure it out.

Since I cannot find any schematics, service manual or parts I was thinking about ditching this chassis and getting this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-R...ultDomain_0&hash=item19ca3ec42e#ht_783wt_1039

Does anyone have any comments about that?

V drive is the Vertical hold or adjustments. VR1 I am not use of. but dont think its a voltage control for the ac/dc convertor as that is set values by the conponent that the board uses. I would think VR1 has something to do with the vertical adjustments. I would try adjusting them and see what happens. Most pot are limited and will not hurt anything. If you are unsure mark the position of the pot before adjusting.
 
question?? did you move your yoke on this monitor for any reason? your geometry being tilted maybe do to your yoke being moved
 
Universal chassis will not work with all tubes. 8liner.com I think sell universal chassis and What I understand is that the info isnt correct but I have not confirmed what they say to what other say about empedence. resistence is not the same as empedence. but there is more understand to this then that... which I have not taken the time to look. as resistence is used to adjust or hold down or limit current or drop voltage. some tubes use High empedence or low empedence. so I would be careful about buying this chassi. for your tube. GOD BLESS
 
4.) horizontal size is too big, and a small portion of it wraps back on top of itself. If I adjust the 'horizontal hold' pot then the portion that fold's over moves from the left side of the monitor to the right. If adjust the 'horizontal size' pot then horizontal size of the screen adjusts but that portion of the screen still folds over. Adjusting the horizontal coil has no effect. I am not entirely sure that it's turning, it might be frozen.

I just can't seem to get rid of this. I can adjust everything about the horizontal or vertical (size, position, hold, etc) but it still folds over on one side. If I mess with the horizontal hold it moves from one side to the other (left side or right side). Do I need to look at the convergence?

Universal chassis will not work with all tubes. 8liner.com I think sell universal chassis and What I understand is that the info isnt correct but I have not confirmed what they say to what other say about empedence. resistence is not the same as empedence. but there is more understand to this then that... which I have not taken the time to look. as resistence is used to adjust or hold down or limit current or drop voltage. some tubes use High empedence or low empedence. so I would be careful about buying this chassi. for your tube. GOD BLESS

Well now I'm depressed. This monitor seems pretty good and for the most part the picture is OK - but with it being blurry and folding over I have given up on this chassis and am looking for a new one. Someone e-mailed me trying to sell me a K7000 and he had the opinion that my yoke should be compatible. But you have a lot less optimism. :(
 
Is there a focus pot on the flyback?

A sign of a bad flyback is being out of focus, or not holding focus.
 
Is there a focus pot on the flyback?

A sign of a bad flyback is being out of focus, or not holding focus.

There is a focus pot on the flyback, but if I turn up the brightness or if the screen gets bright then it gets out of focus. For most of the time it's OK, but it's not good enough for me. It's not possible for me to get a new flyback since the chassis is a mystery.

I'm pretty much past the point of trying to use this chassis - just would like to get a newer one with known parts and schematic that is compatible with my yoke.
 
So I was thinking of replacing this chassis with a K7000 series chassis, and I was inspecting the RGB signal cabling from my game to the monitor chassis. I then noticed that only 5 of the 9 signals are used (R, G, B, Ground, -Hor Synch), the other 4 signals are not connected (+Hor Synch, -Ver Synch, +Ver Synch). Is that normal?
 
So I was thinking of replacing this chassis with a K7000 series chassis, and I was inspecting the RGB signal cabling from my game to the monitor chassis. I then noticed that only 5 of the 9 signals are used (R, G, B, Ground, -Hor Synch), the other 4 signals are not connected (+Hor Synch, -Ver Synch, +Ver Synch). Is that normal?

If I remember right -v -h and +h +v are for Vga and higher. RGB with sync (composite signal, One wire for both vert.and horz sync) for med or standard ras.. monitors. So if your game just has rgb ground and -h you will use that hook up... I would say yes that is normal for a multi sync monitor.. But I do not know much about the k7000 monitors...
 
So I was thinking of replacing this chassis with a K7000 series chassis, and I was inspecting the RGB signal cabling from my game to the monitor chassis. I then noticed that only 5 of the 9 signals are used (R, G, B, Ground, -Hor Synch), the other 4 signals are not connected (+Hor Synch, -Ver Synch, +Ver Synch). Is that normal?

Yes. Normal. In this case, a composite sync signal is connected to the horizontal sync input.

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/sync.html
 
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