Dumb ISO question

tobyocc

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Here is the ISO I am using. Which 2 lugs on the top and bottom do I use? This is going to a G07 in a 60in1. Sorry for the noob question.

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Where did you get the transformer? Remember that not all transformers have an isolated 120 out. Some have 120 in, but then provide +12, +5, etc out instead of 120.

If the transformer isn't labeled, then I'd say do continuity checks on the bottom to see which lugs are connected internally, and then connect the 120 to the two lugs that are farthest apart and still connected. Then check the lugs on top to make sure they are NOT connected to the ones you used on the bottom. Then apply power and check the top lugs to see if you get 120 out on any pair. If so, remove power and attach your monitor output wires there. If not, remove power and change the wires on the bottom to a different set and try again.

Of course, you could do it backwards, too. Your transformer is partially labelled showing 0v and 115v on the top, so attach your input 120 there. The apply power and check the bottom lugs in sets until you find the 120 out. Then connect your monitor output wires to the bottom and you're done...
 
I don't think that's a monitor isolation transformer. Can you post a picture of (what's left) of that label. It's a Midway transformer....from what I can see of the label. The top two lugs with label intact......I see 0V and 115V....those two MIGHT be the isolation output.....but they could also be the input. What's printed on the label at the lower two lugs?

Edward
 
Then considering it's like some other transformers, the next one would be 115. But connect it like I said to the top, then measure the bottom...
 
OK i found this pic, same ISO. Can I use that 12v for coin door ect? So I will run the monitor off of lug 1 and 3. Thanks.

picture.php
 
You COULD use the 12v for the coin door - provided you input at the bottom.

Or - if you're using a switcher, power the coin door lights from the switcher...
 
If you want to use the 12v at the top, then it needs to go in bottom and out top. If you don't use the 12v, then it doesn't matter...
 
I hate you all. I really need a total ISO transformer tutorial. I have 2 transformers but neither have labels. I just need one to be an ISO. I also have webbed feet. :p
 
OK i found this pic, same ISO. Can I use that 12v for coin door ect? So I will run the monitor off of lug 1 and 3. Thanks.

picture.php

I'll explaine what you're seeing in this picture. First, that is a multipule winding transformer. It is capable of outputting 12VAC and isolated 120VAC. Technically, the power input is the bottom lugs. You can see they are labeled...0V, 105V, 115V, 125V, and E. The 0V is for what is commonly refered to as the "neutral" side of household 120V feed. The next three would be for the "hot" side if our household 120V feed. The manufacturer of this transformer gave you three options (but you only use one...as in the picture, they used the 115V lug). These options were to compensate for variances in household voltage. If your household line voltage was low, you'd use 105V.....if it was high, you'd use the 125V. Depending on which input lug you use, it will equally affect the outputs. Say you household line is 120V (which most in the USA run between 120-130V).....and you tap into the 0V and the 105V. This would in turn "bump up" the two outputs of this transformer. The 115V top output would probably be around 140V (I'm approximating, here)....and the 12V output would probably be 15-18V.
The last input lug is E. This is for the Earth ground...IE: the "third" prong of your household plug.

Edward
 
So does it matter what wire goes to the connector on the chassis. My monitor has a black and a brown wire, Does one specific wire go to the "Neutral" and one to the "Hot". Thanks.
 
So does it matter what wire goes to the connector on the chassis. My monitor has a black and a brown wire, Does one specific wire go to the "Neutral" and one to the "Hot". Thanks.

The wires coming out of the isolated side do not need to be connected in any specific way..
 
I'll explaine what you're seeing in this picture. First, that is a multipule winding transformer. It is capable of outputting 12VAC and isolated 120VAC. Technically, the power input is the bottom lugs. You can see they are labeled...0V, 105V, 115V, 125V, and E. The 0V is for what is commonly refered to as the "neutral" side of household 120V feed. The next three would be for the "hot" side if our household 120V feed. The manufacturer of this transformer gave you three options (but you only use one...as in the picture, they used the 115V lug). These options were to compensate for variances in household voltage. If your household line voltage was low, you'd use 105V.....if it was high, you'd use the 125V. Depending on which input lug you use, it will equally affect the outputs. Say you household line is 120V (which most in the USA run between 120-130V).....and you tap into the 0V and the 105V. This would in turn "bump up" the two outputs of this transformer. The 115V top output would probably be around 140V (I'm approximating, here)....and the 12V output would probably be 15-18V.
The last input lug is E. This is for the Earth ground...IE: the "third" prong of your household plug.

Edward

I wish I had one of these right now. I'd connect the top to 120v and use the bottom for both 120v and 100v monitor testing, instead of having to keep a Nintendo PS around for that purpose...
 
I wish I had one of these right now. I'd connect the top to 120v and use the bottom for both 120v and 100v monitor testing, instead of having to keep a Nintendo PS around for that purpose...

Yep, they're handy for that!:D

So does it matter what wire goes to the connector on the chassis. My monitor has a black and a brown wire, Does one specific wire go to the "Neutral" and one to the "Hot". Thanks.

Honestly, no.....tap one to the 0V and tap the other to the 115V or 125V.....and you'll be good to go.

Edward
 
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