Duck Hunt with an LCD monitor ?

pcjohn

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Not sure if this is a question for general repair or monitors, but I have
a Duck Hunt with a bad tube.

Any thoughts as to if a Duck Hunt would work in with an LCD ?

As I understand, the gun isn't tracking the scan lines like a
new gun game does. Basically when you pull the trigger, the
screen blanks and the objects are one at a time replaced with
white blocks. If the gun optic "sees" the white it registers a hit.

Any thoughts ?
 
Won't work.

Bad tube or broken chassis?
If it's the chassis that's bad, it's likely a 20ez and that's worth fixing or having fixed.
 
Not sure if this is a question for general repair or monitors, but I have
a Duck Hunt with a bad tube.

Any thoughts as to if a Duck Hunt would work in with an LCD ?

As I understand, the gun isn't tracking the scan lines like a
new gun game does. Basically when you pull the trigger, the
screen blanks and the objects are one at a time replaced with
white blocks. If the gun optic "sees" the white it registers a hit.

Any thoughts ?

I think the way it works (and the other old school optical gun games) is that it scans a flash onto the screen, with the neck guns, so starts at the top left, does the whole line, goes down a line, does that whole line, etc.

I BELIEVE the reason they don't work on LCD's is because LCD's don't scan in, so if it were instructed to flash the screen, it wouldn't do it from the top corner, it would just immediately turn the whole screen white by turning on every pixel.

That's how I always understood it, so in that instance no an LCD wouldn't work on Duck Hunt either.

Might be worth rigging up an LCD to one though to test it, if it does do some different thing like drawing the objects back in with white blocks like you said....
 
As I understand, the gun isn't tracking the scan lines like a
new gun game does. Basically when you pull the trigger, the
screen blanks and the objects are one at a time replaced with
white blocks. If the gun optic "sees" the white it registers a hit.

Any thoughts ?

The Nintendo implimentation! Yes!
They care not for specific positioning, but if you
hit *anywhere* inside the flash blocks.
The sensor data is "bullshit" timed against
the white blobs but that's it, so all you should
need is the photo sensor to "go high" during the
flash, if aimed properly, and... in theory...

Warrants a test, at least...!
 
That's what I'm talkin' about.

My only worry is that after piping the video
through one of those GBS 8200 converters
there will be problems of some sort.

Either way, I'm going to experiment next
weekend and I'll post my findings.


The Nintendo implimentation! Yes!
They care not for specific positioning, but if you
hit *anywhere* inside the flash blocks.
The sensor data is "bullshit" timed against
the white blobs but that's it, so all you should
need is the photo sensor to "go high" during the
flash, if aimed properly, and... in theory...

Warrants a test, at least...!
 
While yes, Nintendo doesn't track position from the scan like the typical light gun... it does require that the sensor see the transition to and/or from dark/light. If you shine a flashlight in a zapper and pull the trigger, you don't automatically kill ducks.

So, I think the problem you'd likely run into is that with an LCD, you won't have the completely dark to light transition (since it'll just refresh a static image). I also don't know how timing dependent it is... so the LCD lag, and especially a converter might completely kill it anyway. And the contrast ratio of an LCD might not be good enough either... black vs. white on a CRT has MUCH more contrast than on an LCD, so the sensor might have a harder time distinguishing light from dark.

DogP
 
Here's another vid explaining the details of how it worked with the CRT. (I think there are better/other ones as well, but this is the first ok one I could find) :

 
I would also ask how bad the tube is (most likely necked). Me and jcar302 would like to know as you still haven't answered that question.
 
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