Dragon's Lair Iso transformer hookup

earblast

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I have a Dragon's Lair with a Samsung tv monitor and chassis presently installed.

I'm in the process of putting a G07 back in, but am stuck with the iso transformer. Mine looks exactly as the one pictured. The only thing hooked up to it is a ground wire on E.

There are two leads going from J2 on the power supply that would hook into the iso, but I don't know where those go and where the monitor wires go.

If anyone has this type of setup, please let me know what your looks like.

Thanks,
 

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The AC comes in from the power supply's J2, and attaches to the lower terminals marked 0V and 115V (which just happen to have the two solder blobs in the picture).

The isolated power comes out from the two upper terminals.

Good luck!
 
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OK. Thanks. The one in my cab has the two bottom terminals bent outward of what I assumed were the correct pair. Wasn't sure whether the top or bottom terminals should be hooked up top the monitor.

I'm assuming the polarity shouldn't matter correct? J2 pin 1 and 2 were labeled off as 115 High and 115 low and wasn't sure what that meant.

The AC comes in from the power supply's J2, and attaches to the lower terminals marked 0V and 115V (which just happen to have the two solder blobs in the picture).

The isolated power comes out from the two upper terminals.

Good luck!
 
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almost always, a/c from the wall goes in the bottom and out the top of transformers but not always.
no matter which way you hook it up with the black on one terminal and the white on another, a/c (alternating current) does just that, it alternates. when measuring for ac with your handy dandy multimeter, you always test both legs of the outlet or put your meter probes into both outlet holes. screwy reading can be obtained if you put your black probe in the third outlet or earth ground hole and the red lead into one of the other outlet holes because you are just measuring one leg or half the power of the wall.
ac alternates 60 times a second or 60 hertz. bridge rectifiers chop the ac in half to start getting it ready for other voltages needed for other game requirements.
transformers you can tap in at different points in the long windings to get different voltages. 6.3 to run some coin door lights. 12 volts for audio, 25 volts, 36 volts, etc., etc.
the windings have a coating on them to keep the electrons flowing down the full "pipe". think of going to home depot to buy a plumbing pipe to fix your toilet but wires come already "full". taps cut into the windings to release the electron flow for the coin door lights. a short across the coating renders the transformer inoperable. I've tried semi successfully to re-wind a monitor yoke although it buzzed like a bastard. found a working yoke but that's another story.
transformers generally don't change a/c to d/c (direct current). they generally change the ac or dc to another form of ac or dc. so if you see a transformer in a circuit, you kind of know whats going on there but always check your schematics if you're looking at a monitor chassis or anything else trying to find a fault.
always make sure your earth grounds are clean and tight or the electron flow will try and find a quicker path to ground and you don't want it doing that THROUGH you. ZZZZZZZZZ, ouch ! dumbass.
phone rang and broke my train of thought.
good luck
 

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Appreciate the explanation. I had to order up a new molex connector for the power cord to go to the g07.

I'll work on everything this week.

This is one of those instances where I look at the hacked up work someone else did thinking they were making it easy and they made it twice as hard. Keeping things original really makes it easier in the long run.

That being said, I have a Dexter in this thing and I'm keeping it that way.:D

almost always, a/c from the wall goes in the bottom and out the top of transformers but not always.
no matter which way you hook it up with the black on one terminal and the white on another, a/c (alternating current) does just that, it alternates. when measuring for ac with your handy dandy multimeter, you always test both legs of the outlet or put your meter probes into both outlet holes. screwy reading can be obtained if you put your black probe in the third outlet or earth ground hole and the red lead into one of the other outlet holes because you are just measuring one leg or half the power of the wall.
ac alternates 60 times a second or 60 hertz. bridge rectifiers chop the ac in half to start getting it ready for other voltages needed for other game requirements.
transformers you can tap in at different points in the long windings to get different voltages. 6.3 to run some coin door lights. 12 volts for audio, 25 volts, 36 volts, etc., etc.
the windings have a coating on them to keep the electrons flowing down the full "pipe". think of going to home depot to buy a plumbing pipe to fix your toilet but wires come already "full". taps cut into the windings to release the electron flow for the coin door lights. a short across the coating renders the transformer inoperable. I've tried semi successfully to re-wind a monitor yoke although it buzzed like a bastard. found a working yoke but that's another story.
transformers generally don't change a/c to d/c (direct current). they generally change the ac or dc to another form of ac or dc. so if you see a transformer in a circuit, you kind of know whats going on there but always check your schematics if you're looking at a monitor chassis or anything else trying to find a fault.
always make sure your earth grounds are clean and tight or the electron flow will try and find a quicker path to ground and you don't want it doing that THROUGH you. ZZZZZZZZZ, ouch ! dumbass.
phone rang and broke my train of thought.
good luck
 
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