Double Star Wars Project

A New Hope

Alright, enough of the old nasty, it is time for a nice new machine to be born.

The first side of the cabinet gets laid down on it's side to start. Then I begin adding the bocking to support the main panel pieces. Here the monitor support brackets have been attached. This is the one thing that is different from the original Atari build. They had originally been made out of partical board, but now they are quality birch plywood for strength.
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Second side goes down for blocking.
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Once the blocking is in place I can begin installing the main panels. I started with the base and the the lower rear panels. The front panel is screwed in place just like the original so it can be removed to apply artwork. Next the upper rear panels.

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Then while the cabinet is still on its side, the second side panel is laid down on top. Then it is glued and stapled in place.

Standing for the first time.
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Awesome to see..thanks for posting. Would you mind briefly describing how you accurately transferred the locations of the blocking, etc from the original to the new cabinet?

I ask because I'm going to build new Black Widow and Quantum cabinets soon. If you took the old panel and drilled through it, I wouldn't mind doing that with one of mine, while I could leave the other intact. In my case there will only be several differences between the cabinets, so 'most' of the panels will be identical. I already have the funky control panel and marquee area blocking pieces, courtesy of Bret
 
Awesome to see..thanks for posting. Would you mind briefly describing how you accurately transferred the locations of the blocking, etc from the original to the new cabinet?

I ask because I'm going to build new Black Widow and Quantum cabinets soon. If you took the old panel and drilled through it, I wouldn't mind doing that with one of mine, while I could leave the other intact. In my case there will only be several differences between the cabinets, so 'most' of the panels will be identical. I already have the funky control panel and marquee area blocking pieces, courtesy of Bret

Brett figured out the entire cabinet copying process really nicely. He has a sticky post in this section on copying cabinets, but here is the short form. To copy the parts lay them down on a sheet of plywood and trace them out. This will allow you to get the exterior measurements and any through cut measurements. For the dado slots that do not go all the way through, the best method is to drill out the ends of the slots so that you can mark their position on your tracing board through the old part.

What Brett and I use to help speed and accuracy on the interior blocking placement is a blocking template. When we cut out a cabinet on the CNC we will cut a template that has holes cut where the blocking goes. That way all the measuring is already done. Just staple them in place. For cabinets that I do not have a template for, I just take measurements from the edge of the cabinet and any other reference point I can and staple each block separately. This takes a long time on some of the Atari cabinets and is easy to get them not quite square. Just have to go slow and measure repeatedly.

Hope that helps.
 
Time for the fun stuff now.

So, the front panel is held in place with screws which really helps for this next step. I removed the front panel from the cabinet to apply the artwork. The nice thing about melamine is there is virtually no prep to do before apply the art. All that needs to be done is to clean the surface. I wiped it down with a damp cloth to get the dust off, then the one important step, wipe down the area with alcohol. This removes any grease or oils from your hands from the cabinet surface. If you skip this step there is a good chance your artwork may peel or just not stick well.

Here you can see the front panel and the center piece that was cut out for the coin door. Having the coin door hole filled with the cutout part helps to keep the art from sagging down into the hole while you apply it.
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Here is the artwork from Phoenix Arcade laid out on top of the panel.
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Applied and trimmed.
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Step by step side art installation.

1. With the art laid out on the cabinet, trim the extra backing around the art to the point you are able to se the cabinet edge and then a bit more. Leave about half and inch to an inch of backing showing. (This is applicable only to art that does not go right to the edge or wrap around)

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2. Line up the art just where you want it and tape it down nice and tight. MEASURE, MEASURE, and MEASURE AGAIN. If you have it not alined correctly at this step it is going to be off at the end.

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3. Peel back about 2 to 3 inches of backing from the bottom edge and cut that backing off. Now apply that bottom strip of exposed artwork to the cabinet using a rubber or plastic squeegee to push the art firmly to the cabinet.

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4. Now you can remove the tape that is holding down the rest of the art work. Take this opportunity to pull the art tight and measure it again a couple of time to make sure it is straight. If you had to make a correction this is your absolute last chance.

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5. Now since this side art covers the entire side, roll it back up from the top so you can get at the backing at the bottom. Don't worry, the art is now locked in place with the 3 inch wide strip at the bottom of the cabinet.

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6. With the art rolled up, peel the backing back from where you cut it earlier.

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7. Roll the backing up under away from the art.

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8. A wrapping papper tube works nicely to help hold the art up from the cabinet and not allowing a sharp bend to form when peeling the backing away.

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9. Take your time and go slow as you pull the backing away. Use your squeegee to press the artwork firmly to the cabinet. if you go slow you should not have any problems with bubbles or creases.

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While I was building the cabinet, the metal parts went off to the powder coater.

Here is where that started:

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and here is what came back.

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I tried to find a place that would re plate the PCB cage, but had no luck. I decided to have the cage powder coated instead.

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The rats had eaten a nice hole in the old cardboard bezel.

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Luckily joeycude came and saved the day with his incredible new bezel!

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