Double Dragon Greenish Monitor

eman4277

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Hi I'm completely new to this (I bought three arcade machines last week at an auction for 140 bucks... I meant to buy one broken one just to see if I can build a MAME, but I ended up with 3, so now I'm gonna sell 2 and keep 1... hopefully.)

Anyway somehow I ended up with a $20 double dragon and it works, except that the monitor is faded and slightly green. (Also there's no sound, but one step at a time, I'm sure changing the speakers or checking the wiring will fix that.) Anyway I was wondering if there was a way to fix this, or if I need a new monitor. Again, I can see the game and play it, it's just faded and greenish.

Also if anybody know how to turn on freeplay for this, I'd appreciate it. I can't find any button inside haha.

Thank you, I really appreciate any help you can give me, even if it's just a link pointing me in the right direction.
 
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thanks

Hi thanks for replying. I was actually lucky enough to find the original (extremely dusty) manual inside the unit :) It looks exactly like that too, so at least I know we're on the same page.


I found these numbers on the chassis, I know it's not the number you're looking for but maybe it'll help:
Chassis number: WG09415
Some random number: 69x1586-100

Here's 3 dusty monitor pictures.
 

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looks like a WG K7K monitor to me

http://therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html

take note of the width coil and where the big caps are.

What about pictures of the problem.

This actually looks like a Dynamo cab.... which this are common in.
is your Double Dragon dedicated?
 
I know I must sound like an idiot, but like I said, I'm just getting into this and you have to start somewhere, right?

So I don't know what the width coil and big caps are.

EDIT:
From pictures I've seen online, mine looks like a dedicated cabinet. It looks exactly like the one here on KLOV: http://www.klov.com/D/Double_Dragon.html

Here's a picture of the screen issue. What you see here, imagine it slightly greener, because that's how it looks in real life.
 

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any ideas?

Sure, mess with the color drive and cut-off pots on the neckboard. Set up a mirror in front of the game while you adjust them, so you can see what changes/progress you are making. If nothing you do makes it look better, time for a cap kit. Make sure you watch what you are grabbing, you can get a nasty shock if you touch the backside (solder side) of the neckboard, or if you brush past the anode wire.
 
Sure, mess with the color drive and cut-off pots on the neckboard. Set up a mirror in front of the game while you adjust them, so you can see what changes/progress you are making. If nothing you do makes it look better, time for a cap kit. Make sure you watch what you are grabbing, you can get a nasty shock if you touch the backside (solder side) of the neckboard, or if you brush past the anode wire.

Ok so I played with all the knobs for a long time and it stretched and moved the screen, made it brighter and changed the contrast, and some made it red, but none fixed it. So I'm going to get the cap kit for the k7000. Thanks for the help.
 
Could be the green output transistor has failed. I recall hearing of swapping one of the other color outputs to the green output to see if that color also over drives. Just mentioning what I recall so YMMV. Always be careful working on monitors. You should read up on how to safely discharge the the tube as well.

There are several people on this forum that do monitor chassis repairs as well. Just something to keep in mind.
 
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Could be the green output transistor has failed. I recall hearing of swapping one of the other color outputs to the green output to see if that color also over drives. Just mentioning what I recall so YMMV. Always be careful working on monitors. You should read up on how to safely discharge the the tube as well.

There are several people on this forum that do monitor chassis repairs as well. Just something to keep in mind.

Thanks for the advice, I've been careful and I have read up on discharging the monitor with a screwdrive and alligator clips, etc. Haven't had the need to do it yet, but I've kept it in mind. Call me a pansy, but I don't stick my hand inside without a rubber glove, haha. I'm going to see if I can try your suggestion about swapping the green output tomorrow or monday. Part of the reason why I'm doing this myself is I enjoy the challenge, would like to learn this semi-useful skill for myself, and I do anything to save a buck ;)
 
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Thanks for the advice, I've been careful and I have read up on discharging the monitor with a screwdrive and alligator clips, etc. Haven't had the need to do it yet, but I've kept it in mind. Call me a pansy, but I don't stick my hand inside without a rubber glove, haha. I'm going to see if I can try your suggestion about swapping the green output tomorrow or monday. Part of the reason why I'm doing this myself is I enjoy the challenge, would like to learn this semi-useful skill for myself, and I do anything to save a buck ;)

I would discharge the monitor before swapping the output wires. I don't use gloves but take no chances. It really sounds like a bad output transistor to me. Be safe. :)
 
I would discharge the monitor before swapping the output wires. I don't use gloves but take no chances. It really sounds like a bad output transistor to me. Be safe. :)

Well, I tried discharging and there was no pop. Even though it was on yesterday, I have to assume that it's already discharged, since I followed every step. I probably did something wrong though, so I'm just gonna keep working on it with gloves to be safe. Would you happen to know what wires are the color outputs on a k7000? I can't seem to find it.
 
I can't really tell from the pic, but are all the colors there, just very green? The picture is an addition of red, green, and blue, and it looked like possibly one of them was missing. But for why it's so green, try turning down the green drive and cutoff pots on the neckboard.

If they don't adjust, pull the green output transistor on the neckboard (Q202) and power it up. If green goes away, swap that transistor that you pulled with the red drive transistor (Q201). If the screen is now way too red, then that drive transistor is bad. If the green doesn't go away when you turn it on without the transistor, you've got a short inside the tube.

And yeah... K7000's automatically discharge themselves, so it's common that they won't arc when you discharge them... of course it's still a good idea to discharge to make sure.

DogP
 
I can't really tell from the pic, but are all the colors there, just very green? The picture is an addition of red, green, and blue, and it looked like possibly one of them was missing. But for why it's so green, try turning down the green drive and cutoff pots on the neckboard.

If they don't adjust, pull the green output transistor on the neckboard (Q202) and power it up. If green goes away, swap that transistor that you pulled with the red drive transistor (Q201). If the screen is now way too red, then that drive transistor is bad. If the green doesn't go away when you turn it on without the transistor, you've got a short inside the tube.

And yeah... K7000's automatically discharge themselves, so it's common that they won't arc when you discharge them... of course it's still a good idea to discharge to make sure.

DogP

It's pretty much that all the colors are missing, and it's very green. By turning one of the knobs, I can make it very red instead, which makes me wonder if it's the blue that's missing, because there's no knob that makes it blue. I will try to do what you said when I get home. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.
 
Before I tried your suggestion I started moving wires around to see if there was something loose, and that's when I noticed that these 2 wires were loose. They are part of a a bigger gray wire that goes down to the pcb board. Could this be the problem? And if so, which of the many holes do they belong to?
 

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Yes, that's definitely a problem... those are your video wires. There's two holes that actually have pins in them, and it looks like the wires closest to those pins probably go with that pin. That would typically cause a missing color though... I dunno about too much color.

DogP
 
I pulled out the entire white plug in order to properly put the wires back, and when I plugged it back in, I loss all picture. The monitor turns on, but I see nothing. When I take out the wires that I put in, I still get nothing. Do you think I shorted something or blew a fuse?
 
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