DOT Deflect button won't light

[2-cents]

I'm totally green when it comes to collecting/restores and I've got no clue how to check if there is any power going to the led so forgive me if I'm asking a stupid question here. My deflect button works fine but will not light up. I've attached a picture of the button housing inside the joystick. Is this a common issue with DOT and if so is it usually the wiring or the LED burning out? If it's the latter it there a way to get the housing open to replace the light or is there a replacement part for it altogether somewhere online?

Any help/info is appreciated!

-J

 

[bungy]

It IS possible that the LED burned out, but you should check the voltage at the switch with a multimeter. You can pick up a cheap meter at radio shack, though I don't recommend them. If the LED is indeed burnt out, it is possible to replace it, but you will have to drill the rivets to get at it. Space is tight in there so you'll probably have to glue it back together. Replacement switches are available for around $15.

 

[tron guy]

It's probably time you realize that you are sick of playing that game and sell it to another california collector.

 

[2-cents]

It IS possible that the LED burned out, but you should check the voltage at the switch with a multimeter. You can pick up a cheap meter at radio shack, though I don't recommend them. If the LED is indeed burnt out, it is possible to replace it, but you will have to drill the rivets to get at it. Space is tight in there so you'll probably have to glue it back together. Replacement switches are available for around $15.

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I'll be picking up a decent "FLUKE" multimeter this weekend. If you've got a recommendation please feel free to drop it! Then I have to figure out how to use the dang thing! HA. I'll post progress of how a noob fumbles his way through this little project. And by "switch" do you mean the button assembly itself or the area that the wires connect to?

 

[2-cents]

It's probably time you realize that you are sick of playing that game and sell it to another california collector.

Ha Ha! No way! I've spent the majority of my life dreaming about this game! Now I just have to learn how to keep it alive and well!

 

[bungy]

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I'll be picking up a decent "FLUKE" multimeter this weekend. If you've got a recommendation please feel free to drop it! Then I have to figure out how to use the dang thing! HA. I'll post progress of how a noob fumbles his way through this little project. And by "switch" do you mean the button assembly itself or the area that the wires connect to?

Fluke is a good brand, it will serve you well.

Measuring DC voltages is easy. Set your meter to DC mode which will look like a line with a dashed line below it:

Your meter will have two probes, a red one and a black one. The black is for ground or COM (common (AC)). According to the schematic, the switch should have three wires on it:
-Red w/yellow stripe = +5v
-Yellow w/red stripe = ground
-Brown w/blue stripe = deflect button

While the game is on and in attract mode, put the black probe on the ground wire (where it's soldered to the switch) and the red probe on the +5 wire (also on the exposed solder). You meter should read right around 5v.

If you're not getting 5v, then there is a problem further up the line. If you are getting 5v, then your LED is burnt out. You have two options here, buy another switch, or repair your switch. I can walk you through repairing it with pictures. You can get the new LED at Radio Shack.

 

[2-cents]

Fluke is a good brand, it will serve you well.

Measuring DC voltages is easy. Set your meter to DC mode which will look like a line with a dashed line below it:

Your meter will have two probes, a red one and a black one. The black is for ground or COM (common (AC)). According to the schematic, the switch should have three wires on it:
-Red w/yellow stripe = +5v
-Yellow w/red stripe = ground
-Brown w/blue stripe = deflect button

While the game is on and in attract mode, put the black probe on the ground wire (where it's soldered to the switch) and the red probe on the +5 wire (also on the exposed solder). You meter should read right around 5v.

If you're not getting 5v, then there is a problem further up the line. If you are getting 5v, then your LED is burnt out. You have two options here, buy another switch, or repair your switch. I can walk you through repairing it with pictures. You can get the new LED at Radio Shack.

Dude! You are my hero! That sounds easy enough. I'm picking up the multimeter this weekend. I'll test and post the results by sunday at the latest! I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the help!

-J

*Edit

By the by are those switches pretty common to find? I figures something like that would be custom to the tron joystick. Just figured I'd ask.

 

[2-cents]

OK so I bought the Multimeter tested the switch and it read at 5.113 ( and based on your prev post I'm gessing thats right around where it should be?) so that means the LED is burnt out. here is a pic of the switch.

Unfortunately this was also my first time using a soldering iron on anything....... ever. Sooooo I think I held the connection too long and melted a bit of the plastic housing...... Sorry for the crappy blurry pics (Damn 3GS) you can just make out where the plastic is bubbled slightly.

So fearing the worst I kind of freaked and bought a new switch online. But because I still need to get my skills up I was wondering if this thing is still fixable? If so I'd like to try and salvage it if only for the sake of getting some practice.

You still up for helping out?

 

[bungy]

You still up for helping out?

Yeah, sure. I've been meaning to make a little guide for this but I'll do it now. Your switch looks a little different than the Atari version which my guide is based on, but you should be able to get the general idea.

Tools needed:
-Drill with small bit (3/32 maybe?)
-Soldering iron
-Optional - Dremel w/cutoff wheel

Parts needed:
-New LED
-2-56 nuts & screws

You can get the LED and screws from Radio shack. I tried the red ones below, but they were too dim so I used the white ones. They are a little brighter than stock LED.

 

[bungy]

First step, drill out the rivets. Use a bit that is just too big to fit completely in the "cupped" side, I think I used 3/32". Once the drill gets through the "cupped" end, the collar will come off and the rest of the rivet will just pull out.

 

[bungy]

Next, note which direction the LED is mounted. In my picture, the flange around the base of the LED is flat on the right side. Then remove the LED from the contacts. Mine was not soldered on, it seemed to be welded or something. I just broke it off and ground it down with the dremel. I suppose you could just leave the old LED legs there.

Cut the new LED legs so the overall length is the same as the original LED before you broke it off. Solder the new LED on the contacts taking care to orient it the same way as the original.

 

[bungy]

Reassemble the switch making sure the microswitch is actuated by the red LED cover. Use the screws and nuts to secure it together.

Now, the protruding screws & nuts are not normally a problem on Atari control panels where there is a lot of space. But in the DOT handle, it is very tight. You may need to find an alternate way to keep it together if the new hardware gets in the way. I don't recommend superglue because then you'll never be able to rebuild it if it burns out again.

 

[2-cents]

Awesome! Wow.... OK I'm off to radio shack first thing tomorrow. I'll get on this right after I'm home from work and post the results.

Thanks again for the sweet detailed pics.

Can't get anymore clear than that!

-J

 

[2-cents]

Well I think I've got a little problem here. Once I got the switch apart I realized that the difference between mine and yours is that the housing around the LED/red button on mine is one solid sealed part. check the blurry pic I took. (currently looking for a decent camera I own that is lost in my wife's office somewhere)

If you know a way around this please let me know. It's really no big deal. The NOS switches I ordered have already arrived so I'm good to go that way. I'm just curious. Thanks again for taking the time to post the tutorial though.

I do have another somewhat related question..... Not sure if I should post a new thread about it.
are these aluminum Atari cones that are being sold over at videogameparts.com the same as the housing around the deflect button on the DOT joystick?

Mine is pretty thrashed up and I'd love a new shiny one!

Wow....Actually looking at them here in the post it's clear they are not the same..... The hell was I smoking? So does anyone know where I could find a new deflector cone?

 

[bungy]

Well that sucks. Look to see if there is a seam on the housing that you can split with a razor blade to open it up.

Yeah, those Atari cones won't work. Try some Brasso or Nevr-Dull on your cone to shine it up. I wouldn't use a wire wheel, it'll probably scratch the hell out of it.

 

[2-cents]

OK so its been a while since I've been able to get back to this. and splitting the switch at the seam with a razor was just not happening. So I ordered the new switch soldered it on, powered up the machine and still no light. I rechecked with the multimeter and it all looks good. Which leads me to believe something may not be wired correctly (although I'm so green I'm more than likely speaking out of my A$$). So I am attaching a little illo of how the deflect button is wired up in my machine. If there is anyone out there who sees something wrong with the placement please let me know Or, if you're a DOT owner and are willing to take a pic of how yours is wired up that would be great too. The pics you see are from when I first opened up the stick. I just re-attached it the way it was when I detached it.

Any and all help is much appreciated!

-J

 

[Icanbyorsuprman]

I hope this helps. Sorry it took so long. This damn NE cold weather keeps me from getting into the garage.

 

[andys80s]

Nice job Bungy.

 

[2-cents]

I hope this helps. Sorry it took so long. This damn NE cold weather keeps me from getting into the garage.

Thanks for posting these. Looks just like the way mine is set up..... Well I guess I gotta see what's up with the wires......

-J

 

[Zinfer]

Rats! And Double rats. Same thing happened to me. I miswired and pop!
Licon sucks for the record. At any rate, going to attempt to replace both leds'. I popped both of them in a Tempest project.
Being that Rat Shack is just about to go out of business, would this be an adequate replacement or is the voltage rating too high?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SK7WW8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A2CKSJGKIJVSBF
I'm also going with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN0HHI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00137N2AY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Just because I couldn't find any steel ones.