Donkey Kong TKG2 on TRS2 board

nazerine

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
1,253
Reaction score
50
Location
Kelowna, BC, Canada
So last night I picked up a Donkey Kong cocktail in a Radarscope cocktail cab

Model: TRS-US
Serial: B04538

P8140157.jpg


http://www.trsrockin.com/dkcards.html

P8140153.jpg


P8140154.jpg


Here's some high res pictures of the gameboards:

TRS2-03-SOU

TRS2-02-CLK

TRS2-02-CPU

TRS2-02-VIDEO

Bottom side of boards with bypass


P8140162.jpg


This link is to a RS repair log for video: http://www.ostermayer.ch/video.html

I'm going to try cleaning all the boards, sockets, and chips. Then inspect the boards closely for any damage of poor solder joints. Man it's a lot of work to mount and unmount all the boards together. My left wrist is in a cast, with my thumb immobilized so it makes working tough.

Can anyone recognize if any socketed chips are missing? I can't seem to find much info on this type of board set
 
Aha, after cleaning everything and checking a couple solder joints I have fixed the color problem. Moving sprites have issues (4M (CLK) on 4-board set), along with once the jump man death sound is played, it keeps repeating indefinately... any advice on that?

Good DK repair log: http://www.brasington.org/arcade/tech/dk/
 

Thanks KentMurphy. Those are wicked sites; I found them a great help earlier today. I just posted them in this thread before I read your reply http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=871111 :) :)

Good news is I got the boards 100% working now

DKFixed1.jpg


DKFixed2.jpg


My sprite issues were caused by a faulty socket at 5A on TRS2-02-VIDEO board.

Sound issues were solved by cleaning the 15pin cable header between the CPU and SOU boards

Played a couple rounds tonight, could barely crack 25k. Tough with a cast on my wrist. It was a challenge fixing the joysticks; getting the c-lip back on the spring loaded shaft with one hand...
 
good job ... how did you identify the bad socket? visually?

I decided to reflow the joints of sockets 3A to 3D along with the related 74S194 (2 per 2716), and followed the schematic to 5B and 5A. When reflowing one of the pins moved very easily. Voila detected. Crude but it worked :)

The leg was rusted off on the bottom between the socket and the parts side of the board. I guess my first round of cleaning removed the hint of rust that was present on the board
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom