Donkey Kong Restoration - ACLBandit

aclbandit

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Just got a DK machine (finally!), so starting this thread to show off the restoration as I go.

In this thread, all thumbnails are "clickable" to see the full-size version.

Pics of the machine so far:





The following is the "ToDo" list for restoring the machine. New items will be added as stuff is discovered, and finished items will be marked when completed.
[ ] 1) buy an original orange button (just the button part -- the orange button "base" is original")
[ ] 2) blue repaint (after removing damaged side art)
[X] 3) fix the audio (only pounding sound, walking sound, and jumping sound are present -- ALL other sound is missing, including music) [SEE THIS POST]
[ ] 4) side art
[X] 5) locks/keys
[ ] 6) fluourescent light/fixture
[ ] 7) coin mech to replace missing one
[ ] 8) replacement instruction card
[ ] 9) replacement instruction sticker
[0] 10) recap monitor (no longer needed, thanks to help from forum members)
__[X] 10.5) fix weird left side "drooping" of screen -- might be fixed after cap kit [SEE THIS POST]
[ ] 11) repair frayed cord insulation (electrical tape. Easiest part of this restore).
[ ] 12) add a high score save kit (possibly the one with D2K built in)
 
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That is a very nice machine. Has anything been done to it before that you can tell. If not, it's tough to find a DK that has not had the horizontal monitor mounting holes drilled in the side. Nice!
 
That is a very nice machine. Has anything been done to it before that you can tell. If not, it's tough to find a DK that has not had the horizontal monitor mounting holes drilled in the side. Nice!

It's almost entirely factory stock -- the jump button has had the "button" part replaced with something white (the button's "base" is still the original orange, though), and the marquee light fixture has been replaced with two screw-in incandescent fixtures.

Other than those two things, everything I can find about it is absolutely original.

It's pretty beat up on the corners, it *was* super-dirty, and the side art needs replaced. I'll get it fixed up, but this thread won't be nearly as interesting as some of the more impressive restorations where the cabinet was in much worse shape.


EDIT: it's unfortunate how awful my phone's camera is -- the graininess really covers up a lot of the flaws and makes it look a lot better than it is. Not a bad machine by any means (not like my Neo -- that was an adventure), but not great either.
 
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There's nothing boring about a nice cleaning job and some minor fixes. You would be surprised how many people will watch just to see the cleaning product you used and the results. What cleaning products to use is one of the basic questions every restorer asks.
 
Goo-Gone, I can say with certainty, worked well for whatever that gummy muck was on the marquee.

I have a list of stuff to do to it on my computer at home -- I'll post it here in the first post when I get home, and check off the boxes as I go.


Side note: a friend and I dragged it up the stairs into the room where the other machines live. I'l try to get a picture of the full set of them soon.


EDIT: Just noticed you have a restored CarnEvil in your signature for sale. That's a machine I currently have "empty" -- has a monitor tube (no chassis) and pretty much nothing else but the wood and artwork. That's one I'll work on eventually, when I have some spare money to throw at it.

EDIT2: Asahi Seiko coin mechs for order also? I will definitely be in touch -- that's one of the things that's on the list. One of my mechs is missing entirely.
 
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The DK cab in its new home! This is where it will be, save for those times when I pull it out to work on it.




Too bad the Neo Geo and the (empty) CarnEvil are surrounded by bins of tools and such right now -- had to clear a path for the DK to move in, and kind of just tossed it all to the side. Thus, they're not in the pictures.

Also, added the "ToDo" checklist to the first post. I'll keep it updated as I go.
 
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Audio fixed!

As it turns out, I just needed to adjust the digital sound potentiometer on the main PCB. I believe it's called the "V2"?

In any case, here's a photo of the main PCB with the pot that one needs to twist circled in red, just in case someone ends up with the same problem I had (only jump, pound, and walk sounds present; all other sound, music included, was missing). It's not going to solve every problem, but it's a solid first step to try.

 
Fresh issue (now added to list).

It had been there since I got it in some capacity, but now it's gotten significantly worse.

There's "drooping" on the left side of the screen. I don't know what it is, but it's possible that it might go away when I install the cap kit. It's listed as a sub-item of the cap kit until that's been completed.

 
Good luck! I'll be watching your thread. My Donkey Kong project is very similar. I have to bondo some corner and repaint and build a new base, but other than that it's in great shape. How's your t-molding?
 
Fresh issue (now added to list).

It had been there since I got it in some capacity, but now it's gotten significantly worse.

There's "drooping" on the left side of the screen. I don't know what it is, but it's possible that it might go away when I install the cap kit. It's listed as a sub-item of the cap kit until that's been completed.



Play around with the sync on the monitor and the board. You might be able to solve that.

If not, Cap kit will prolly fix it.

Add new T-molding to your list. http://www.chompingquarters.com/store.php/categories/t-molding

You need to figure out if you have centered or offset. Audioman runs this site, and is a member here.
 
Good luck! I'll be watching your thread. My Donkey Kong project is very similar. I have to bondo some corner and repaint and build a new base, but other than that it's in great shape. How's your t-molding?

T-Molding is hosed. I found a site that sells spot-on replacement, though -- I'll post it later. I've found almost all of the parts I need, and I'll be ordering them one or two at a time over the course of the next weeks.

EDIT: Looks like someone beat me to a link to t-molding.
 
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Play around with the sync on the monitor and the board. You might be able to solve that.

If not, Cap kit will prolly fix it.

Add new T-molding to your list. http://www.chompingquarters.com/store.php/categories/t-molding

You need to figure out if you have centered or offset. Audioman runs this site, and is a member here.

Yeah, I figured I could fiddle with stuff. I just have to wait for the key to the back panel to get here -- I didn't get ANY keys with the machine, and I don't want to drill the lock on the back since it's supposedly original. We'll see once the key arrives.

Either way, cap kit is on the list and will need to be done.
 
Fresh issue (now added to list).

It had been there since I got it in some capacity, but now it's gotten significantly worse.

There's "drooping" on the left side of the screen. I don't know what it is, but it's possible that it might go away when I install the cap kit. It's listed as a sub-item of the cap kit until that's been completed.


This is very common. It's the horizontal screen position pot on the PCB board[b/]. Turn it back and forth a bit and that typically fixes it. Once you get the screen positioned correctly, leave it alone and you should be okay (mostly).
 
This is very common. It's the horizontal screen position pot on the PCB board[b/]. Turn it back and forth a bit and that typically fixes it. Once you get the screen positioned correctly, leave it alone and you should be okay (mostly).


Good to know that it's an easy fix. Got a key in today, so if it fits, I should be able to get started working on it in earnest. I'll find that pot and adjust it first thing
 
When you open it up you should see the PCB on the left side of the cabinet, held in place by 2 metal "L" brackets. The pots should be on the left PCB (that faces the left side of the cabinet) right at the top. There are two of them there. I can't remember which is which but they move the position of the game on the screen (Left/Right and Up/Down).

All the other screen adjusmtments are on the monitor (in various places).
 
When you open it up you should see the PCB on the left side of the cabinet, held in place by 2 metal "L" brackets. The pots should be on the left PCB (that faces the left side of the cabinet) right at the top. There are two of them there. I can't remember which is which but they move the position of the game on the screen (Left/Right and Up/Down).

All the other screen adjusmtments are on the monitor (in various places).

I got my key in yesterday.

That fixed it! The horizontal pot is the one closest to you if you're behind the machine, just for future reference.

It's looking great now.

On a related topic, the brightness pot on the monitor is turned all the way up and the screen is still kind of dim. We'll see what it looks like after a cap kit.
 
I got my key in yesterday.

That fixed it! The horizontal pot is the one closest to you if you're behind the machine, just for future reference.

It's looking great now.

On a related topic, the brightness pot on the monitor is turned all the way up and the screen is still kind of dim. We'll see what it looks like after a cap kit.

There are 3 brightness adjusments so before you go capping make sure you've got those dialed in. The master brightness is on the flyback (bottom right of the monitor chasis (i.e. the pcb connected to the monitor). The sub-brightness is in the middle right of the monitor chasis. The fine tuning brightness adjusment is on the audio section of the monitor (that's the one you probably adjusted).

If you do a search here on Sanyo EZs there are instructions on how to adjust the brightness correctly. Start with the master, then the sub, then fine tune with the pot on the audio section.

BE CAREFUL because you can shock yourself. Make a plastic tool to adjust the flyback and sub-brightness pots and you'll be less likely to get zapped.
 
There are 3 brightness adjusments so before you go capping make sure you've got those dialed in. The master brightness is on the flyback (bottom right of the monitor chasis (i.e. the pcb connected to the monitor). The sub-brightness is in the middle right of the monitor chasis. The fine tuning brightness adjusment is on the audio section of the monitor (that's the one you probably adjusted).

If you do a search here on Sanyo EZs there are instructions on how to adjust the brightness correctly. Start with the master, then the sub, then fine tune with the pot on the audio section.

BE CAREFUL because you can shock yourself. Make a plastic tool to adjust the flyback and sub-brightness pots and you'll be less likely to get zapped.

Thanks for the info. I didn't actually need to adjust the main, just the sub-main.

I'm aware of the dangers of monitors -- I've recapped/worked on the ones in my other two cabs. One good shock was enough to convince me to be extra-careful.

As it turns out, though, a LOT of the "dimness" (not all, but most) and the "blurriness" was due to a thick layer of dust and grime. Don't ask me how I didn't think of that after seeing all the dust inside, but that's what it was. After cleaning the front of the monitor tube thoroughly, as well as the back of the monitor cover/bezel, I've got a crisp and bright picture.

Other things I found out once I had the bezel/cover off:

1) The image doesn't take up the whole screen. It's possible that this is intentional, it's possible that it's not. I can adjust the "vertical" size (given that this is a rotated monitor, that's actually horizontal in this cabinet), but not the "horizontal" size with potentiometers. This is common -- it must be adjusted with the horizontal width coil in my other machines. I have the PLASTIC hex tool and tried turning it, but nothing seemed to happen at all. Is the "horizontal" (again, actually vertical in this case) width adjusted somewhere else besides the thing that looks like copper wire on a spool of thread?


2) The black cardboard thingy that keeps it nice and dark from behind the monitor is looking quite shabby -- is there a good plastic replacement for that, or will I need to cut my own from heavy black paperboard?


Here's an image of how the monitor looks now, brightened up and CLEANED:

 
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