Donkey Kong Junior...monitor issue?

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I have a Donkey Kong Junior that powered up, made some noise and had a green lined picture. The board was tested by a fellow KLOV'er (thanks Mark!) and was bad. I've replaced the board and the game plays blind now but the screen is still filled with lines.
Can anyone help a newbie out?
Thanks.
 

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Damn, turn that brightness down. Make sure the video cable is connected at both ends. You may want to rebuild the monitor to see if that helps.

And double check that it's plugged into the 100v outlet at the bottom. I think there may be a 120v outlet down there, too, and you wouldn't want it plugged into that...
 
Here are two more pictures.

I've checked the video cable, it is connected. I'll check the outlet tomorrow.
I guess I'll start researching monitor rebuilds!
 

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That thing needs to be cleaned up and capped first of all. It looks like its not getting any video signal at all, (this is what they look like when powered on with no video cable plugged in.) There is one dual outlet in the bottom of the cab and the recepticals are both 100VAC fed from the iso. (unless its been hacked). Try turning down the brightness on the flyback then adjust with the brightness pot on the remote board. double,triple check that flat video cable for bad spots or bad plugs. (on both ends)
 
The more I look at it the more cap related problems I see (except the lack of actual vid sig)
jailbars, foldover, signs of a bad B+ filter etc. Either way you look at it, it's gonna need a deluxe cap kit and a filter cap for sure bro.
 
Okay, I've done the cap kit and replaced the filter cap. When I tried to adjust the B+ it wouldn't budge. With a closer inspection I noticed what looks like paint on the pot and corrosion on the small fuse next to it.
Should both be replaced?
 

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The paint dot is from being set at the factory.... what did your B+ voltage actually read ?

The fuse holder can probably just be cleaned up a bit, it's obviously still getting power through it.

What does the image look like now?

The main concern as mentioned earlier was the fact that there seemed to be NO video signal at all.
Granted it would have been all screwed up looking, but there should have been an image there.
 
The paint looks liked white latex that dripped onto the pot and the board, definitely doesn't look like a factory job. I think I'm just going to replace it rather than try to scrape/clean it off.
 
The paint looks liked white latex that dripped onto the pot and the board, definitely doesn't look like a factory job.

Yes, that's exactly what it looks like from the factory.
But your call to just replace it.

BTW -
What is your B+ voltage reading ?
Is there a reason you even want to disturb the B+ adjustment pot ?
 
The paint looks liked white latex that dripped onto the pot and the board, definitely doesn't look like a factory job. I think I'm just going to replace it rather than try to scrape/clean it off.

Yes, that's factory. I took a small screwdriver and gently turned it back and forth until it broke free on mine. But, mine ended up being faulty and I replaced it anyway. $1.00 from Bob Roberts.
 
Back in August the B+ was reading in the 120's and I couldn't get it down.
I've been chipping away at the cap kit (my first, and an EZ20 IS NOT EZ!)
Following Dokert's flow chart, I had ordered the B+ pot, the filter cap and an IC601 from Bob Roberts along with the deluxe cap kit.
I'm about ready to put the chassis back together and was just wondering if I should go ahead with changing the pot while it was out or just wait and see.
 
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