Donkey Kong Jr Monitor Help

wxforecaster

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
646
Reaction score
12
Location
Moon Township, Pennsylvania
OK, thanks to a fellow KLOVer, I finally have the backdoor off my DK Jr. (No locks were harmed during this incident).

The following are two pictures of the monitor/chassis, which is badly in need of a cap kit.

Q1: This looks all original. Is this a Sanyo EZ20?

Q2: Removing the chassis from my Ms. Pac cocktail took all of 5 minutes. I'm staring at this thing and don't even know where to begin. Any tutorials (video perhaps) or tips available?

Evan

dkjr_monitor1.jpg


dkjr_monitor2.jpg
 
That is indeed a 20EZ monitor.

As far as where to start.... Knowledge! Have you worked on monitors before? Read up, then read up again!
2. Discharge the monitor!

Then on to what your doing... What's wrong that it needs a cap kit? Buy a cap kit and might do the audio board while your there too. $5 kit is worth it. Just be careful above all.
 
Yes, I've worked on monitors before (fixed my ms pac cocktail). Yes I know how to discharge one (always good to have a reminder in every thread!). Yes I've done a cap kit (on the aforementioned G07).

The cap kit diagnosis was already determined from my restoration thread (and confirmed by other screen captures on here from similar issues). This is my first upright cap kit, so my lingering question is how to get the chassis out :)

See ref. pic below:
dkjr_monitor.jpg
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of the 20EZ!
Really the only thing I would suggest is to pull the whole monitor. It will be easier to adjust the B+ when its out.
 
TomTime,

I see you're in Belton! (I'm just up the street in Lee's Summit). PM me sometime.

Is there a preferred method to safely removing the monitor (discharging duly noted of course)? In otherwords, I want to perform a capkit and not end up dropping this thing. How much wiring slack is there such that I can set this on a bench and do a B+ adjustment while having it powered up.

E
 
the monitor comes out from the front.

first remove the monitor bezel it lifts out after you pull the lock bar.

the lock bar is in the back of the cab at the top. loosen the wing nut and pull the bar back. it only travels like a half an inch or so.
then take the two screws out of the lower front of the monitor and the 2 screws out of the top of the monitor frame from the front.
then come back to the back and remove the 4 cables that attach to the monitor.

the red and wite that go to the speaker. the brown wire that goes to the audio amp. the flat wite video cable. and the power chord.

after all that pull the monitor out from the front.

after the cap kit and audio board rebuild. set it on a stool in the back of the machine they're is plenty of length for the cables to test it outside of the cab.

Peace
Buffett
 
You will not be able to pull the chassis while the monitor is still in the game on this one. The monitor can be removed from either the front or the back. Personally I find it easier to remove from the rear.

Once you have the monitor out, you will need to remove the cover for the neck board.
The ground wire to the neck board
The neck board
Connector JB
Connector JC
The degaussing connector
The daughter board with 5 pots on it
The degaussing ground (only if it has a manual degaussing button)
The yoke connector
The inverter board connector
The screws for the HV cage surrounding the fly
The mounting plastic standoffs

That should get you in the ball park

ALWAYS ADJUST THE B+ ON A SANYO 20EZV AFTER A CAP KIT! (TP 91/BJ 108vdc)
Dok
 
Thanks to you both! Plan on having Tom over the house when the cap kit arrives. That way we ensure a safe process and a smooth once-and-done hands on learning experience that I'll feel comfortable with in the future.
 
They are not that bad.
I took pics of all the connectors and wire routings before I took it apart.
After a couple I now don't need the pics to put one back together.
The main thing is to go slow and easy as to not damage the chassis.
Make sure you get the Deluxe cap kit from Bob Roberts.
 
Thanks to you both! Plan on having Tom over the house when the cap kit arrives. That way we ensure a safe process and a smooth once-and-done hands on learning experience that I'll feel comfortable with in the future.

Looking forward to it! I will bring my 20EZ parts stash with me. I cant wait to see all of your pins. Are you the guy I sold my Simpsons pin to?
 
HA!! Quite possibly! Want to fix that too? :) The high voltage board on it burned up, I had it sent out for repair and that one burned up too. I even rewired all the burned molex connectors before getting the repair back figuring that was partially to blame.

At wits end with that thing even though I enjoyed it and have a new rubber kit and decals to give it a fresh look :(

Rest of the pins are working great (knock on playfield).

Evan
 
I wanted to follow up and say a big thanks. Tom has been unavailable, so I decided to tackle this myself. I took the "backdoor" route and had relatively no problem removing/setting the monitor.

Took a couple hours to replace all the caps (I think I found the two main culprits that were blown to smitherines) and clean up the grime/filth off the boards and monitor. The result is amazing. DK Jr looks brand new out of the box!

I want to double check the B+ adjustment and make sure I've got the right test point and adjustment pot. Does anyone have a map/photo of this?

Also, the screen needs to be nudged to the right just a hair, but didn't see any fine tune adjustment pots that were intuitive.

Evan
 
the B+ location is BJ. its by the big wite resister on the left rear of the chassis. you can also use the big leg of the wite resister that faces the tube as it and the post are on the same trace.

108v is what you are looking to adjust it to

use a non conductive tool or you could blow the regulator if you touch the heat sink. i know i did this.

the Horizontal center pot on the remote board control's the position and on the game PCB one of the two post also does it i think.

one is shift and one is a width pot i think that is how it is. but if you play with them you will see witch is witch.

glad to see it came back to life.

Peace
Buffett
 
I was about to followup with a "nevermind" post, as I found these answers by using a neat option called "search". Thanks for the confirmation and your help as always!

Now two last things to finish the restoration off:
1.) Need a lock for the coin door. Bought one but it doesn't fit as the hole is more of an oval shape.
2.) The jump sound doesn't work. All others sounds/music are fine. Trying to trace back the schematic. Had a nice conversation with Mike @ MikesArcade about this, and going to work back through the resistors/caps in the analog sound section that I think controls this particular sound. Replaced C15 and C24 already which didn't help.

Evan
 
Back
Top Bottom