Donkey Kong II Kit issues

I have not resolved it. Again, D2K plays great, and if I take out the D2K kit, and I put my Z80 back to normal, then my DK board plays great. I just can't play DK with the kit installed.

My next step is to check the +5v. I'm such a newb that I can't figure out how to do that, even with looking at previous posts on it. My understanding is that I can check it at the edge connector, or I can check it at the seated chips, but I'm totally lost. I don't even know what setting to put the multi-meter on, LOL.

I may just send the board and the kit to Dick Millikan to see if he will look at it.

In any event, I'm the only person who's ever seemed to have this problem, and there hasn't been any damage to my board as a result, it's just pain because if I want to play DK I have to remove the kit entirely. Steve at Arcade Shop is a good guy and I'd encourage you to buy one.
 
I have not resolved it. Again, D2K plays great, and if I take out the D2K kit, and I put my Z80 back to normal, then my DK board plays great. I just can't play DK with the kit installed.

My next step is to check the +5v. I'm such a newb that I can't figure out how to do that, even with looking at previous posts on it. My understanding is that I can check it at the edge connector, or I can check it at the seated chips, but I'm totally lost. I don't even know what setting to put the multi-meter on, LOL.

I may just send the board and the kit to Dick Millikan to see if he will look at it.

In any event, I'm the only person who's ever seemed to have this problem, and there hasn't been any damage to my board as a result, it's just pain because if I want to play DK I have to remove the kit entirely. Steve at Arcade Shop is a good guy and I'd encourage you to buy one.

Thanks for the thoughtful response and info. That does make me feel a bit better. I'd help you with checking the +5v if I wasn't a newb myself. I'm hoping to sell a few things (DK Junior cpo and coin counter) to get a little money to put towards the DK2 kit. Will be nice to have the high score save feature too.

Paul
 
Thanks for the thoughtful response and info. That does make me feel a bit better. I'd help you with checking the +5v if I wasn't a newb myself. I'm hoping to sell a few things (DK Junior cpo and coin counter) to get a little money to put towards the DK2 kit. Will be nice to have the high score save feature too.

Paul

5v is tested at almost any chip, on the diagonal like in the pic

:)

5vDCchips.jpg


Ref www.alldatasheet.com
 
I would think that you are having a problem with your kit, not your boardset. Have you sent Scott Brasington an email to ask his opinion?
 
I would think that you are having a problem with your kit, not your boardset. Have you sent Scott Brasington an email to ask his opinion?

I thought it was the kit too so I sent it to a fellow KLOVER who installed it on his board and it worked perfectly in his machine.

He had two thoughts: (1) possible faulty Z80 chip, (2) +5v. He sent me a new z80 when he returned the kit and that didn't change anything, so I figure I might as well try the +5v as a next step.

If a video would help I can post something up.
 
Jake,
I'm with Dokert on this. Definitely shoot Scott an e-mail. He's a good guy and there's a outside chance he's seen what's going on on your boards before. Plus if anyone is qualified to check it out it's him.

Good luck.
ERIC

BTW: My D2K/DK kit works awesome...just rubbin' it in ;)
 
Jake,
I'm with Dokert on this. Definitely shoot Scott an e-mail. He's a good guy and there's a outside chance he's seen what's going on on your boards before. Plus if anyone is qualified to check it out it's him.

Good luck.
ERIC

BTW: My D2K/DK kit works awesome...just rubbin' it in ;)

I've actually already e-mailed Scott and Jeff Kulczycki. Based on my description of the issues Scott and Jeff didn't have any answers but said it was possibly a faulty kit. They suggested that I contact Steve about a replacement. I had previously sent my entire board, with the kit, to Steve at Arcadeshop, who said he thought it was my Z80 socket. He replaced the z80 socket and said it was working, BUT, I could never get a clear answer from him on whether he actually tested DK gameplay. He said "We ran the board for a few days and didn't see any problems." It sounded like he just set up the board on the test bench, let it run in attract for a day or so, and assumed everything was working. Well, sometimes the game would switch to D2K in attract, but sometimes it wouldn't, and if you just glance over to confirm that attract mode is up and running you likely wouldn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I did mention that to Steve but it he never confirmed he had looked into that. Giving Steve the benefit of the dobut, it's always possible tthat the board and kit worked fine on Steve's setup but is flaking out on my setup for some reason.

Anyway, when Steve sent the board back (with the kit still installed by him and presumably working on his end) I reinstalled it on my machine it had the same problematic symptoms. Since Steve checked out everything for free, and had no obligation to do anything for me, I didn't want to press him any longer about the depth of his testing. At that point I thought it was my switching power supply. I put in an original PP-7B and it still had same symptoms. I put in the Dockert/Flagg harness and it still had same symptoms.

At that point I fiugred it had to be the kit and that Steve just missed the symptoms in his testing. That's when I e-mailed Scott and Jeff. They seemed stumped and said it might be the kit. I was going to ask Steve to replace the kit, but before I did that I wanted to make SURE it was the kit, and not my board (since Steve had already gone out of his way to help me.) That's when I sent the kit to DogP to test in his machine. It worked fine in his machine. He verified that DK gameplay worked.

So, at this point I'm thinking it's one of two things. Either it's been my board from day one, and Steve just missed the problem because he wasn't testing game play, or there is something up with the other components on my machine that is making this thing flake. The only thing I haven't swapped out is my transformer and monitor. I seriously doubt it's the monitor. All my other PCBs work with the transformer. That leads me to belive it's the board or something with how the board is interacting with the kit. It is odd that my board works fine without the kit installed.

I keep second guessing myself and thinking I haven't installed the kit firmly enough but I have tried to seat the thing a zillion times. I've seperated the board from the tray and seated it as firmly as possible. I've tried tilting it in any way I can think of, seating it evenly but only 3/4 down in the socket, etc. I either get the same symptoms or typical z80 garbage (meaning the kit isn't fully seated).

So, I'm fully stumped. If I had another DK board I would cross check it in my machine but I only have one DK boardset with the seated Z80 and I don't want to do anything destructive to my original 4-board set with a soldered z80.

By the way, glad you got your board working, is it the TKG2? Did the schematics I sent help?
 
I'm just updating on this in case anyone else comes across this problem in the future.

I have a strong suspicion its the power transformer, which, in my case, is a black, PT-8A found in the early TKG-3 DKs (as opposed to the gold PT-821B found in the vast majority of Donkey Kong/Donkey Kong Jr. cabinets). Upon testing my DK board with the D2K kit installed in my DK Jr. cabinet (which has the PT-821B transformer), I found that the kit works just fine (it plays D2K and DK without issue.) The transformer is the only thing that's different in the two cabinets.

Just to completely verify that it's the transformer, I will eventually get around to testing a PT-821B in my Donkey Kong cabinet and see if that fixes the problem. I have no clue why the transformer would cause this sort of thing but it definately reinforces the general view that Donkey Kongs are picky about their power sources.

I'll update again after I test out a PT-821B in my DK cabinet to confirm for sure.
 
I have a 4 board stack and original power supply with the DK2 kit and it runs fine. My power supply is labeled PP-7B.
 
I'm just updating on this in case anyone else comes across this problem in the future.

I have a strong suspicion its the power transformer, which, in my case, is a black, PT-8A found in the early TKG-3 DKs (as opposed to the gold PT-821B found in the vast majority of Donkey Kong/Donkey Kong Jr. cabinets). Upon testing my DK board with the D2K kit installed in my DK Jr. cabinet (which has the PT-821B transformer), I found that the kit works just fine (it plays D2K and DK without issue.) The transformer is the only thing that's different in the two cabinets.

Just to completely verify that it's the transformer, I will eventually get around to testing a PT-821B in my Donkey Kong cabinet and see if that fixes the problem. I have no clue why the transformer would cause this sort of thing but it definately reinforces the general view that Donkey Kongs are picky about their power sources.

I'll update again after I test out a PT-821B in my DK cabinet to confirm for sure.

The power supply gets it's power from the iso.
I suspect it is the culprit here.
 
I got a D2K kit recently. It works okay sometimes but other times it glitches. It seems to have a hard time with the original DK. When I first installed it, DK was entirely unplayable. It would freeze as DK went up the ladder, I start getting garbage and then it would just crash with sound glitches (imagine the sound of jumpman dying over and over and over with intermittend jumps, stomps, etc.) Sometimes I'll get graphics glitches like, DK will stop animating, but he'll float up to the top of the screen. Or DK will just appear in random spots on the board. Sometimes it would restart itself and go back to the bootup screen. Sometimes, DK will play just fine for a while and then it will somehow switch into D2K mid game. For instance, last night I was on a game, I got to level 4-5 (the blue rivets at the end of level 4) and when I beat the level Kong catches the girder (like he does at the end of D2K) and all of a sudden I'm playing D2K. The high score from DK will then be the high score on D2K. Also, ff I just turn it on in DK mode and let it sit it will automatically revert to the D2K. I've had games where it plays DK normally and everything seems fine.

D2K, on the other hand, seems to play just fine.

Everything on my machine is stock with one exception. I've got a switching power supply. I don't know if that could be causing the issue or not.

Any suggestions?

I just got my D2K from Arcadeshop today, and I'm having the same issues (mine is in a stock cab with org power supply) I can play D2K no problem, but when I switch to DK, it freezes up on the opening scene!
 
I've had the D2k for 3 months, and I've finally found the time to pull out the PCB on the DK cocktail table and try the kit out on it. Good news, no issues at all! switches between games flawlessly, so I'm stoked. I'll probably pick up the D2K cocktail bezel kit for it now :)

So, never figured out why it didn't work correctly in the upright cab, but that's ok, now I don't have to go out to the garage to play it!
 
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