Donkey Kong Faint jumping sound constantly.

wow i flipped out for a sec there haha... oh man.
Yeah the problem with that analog circuit was that the path of least resistance ended up being the jump noise through the oscillator etc, and not through D6 like it should have been. It was a weird problem but the PCB i fixed for a friend back in september is still going strong. I substituted R29 (meant to be 10K) for a 1K resistor which seemed to assist in this instance. Let me know if you'd like some photos and I can dig them up and put them here. Good luck sir
Interesting, I've seen this problem coming up a bit lately. These boards are starting to show their age. Curious if you think changing the resistor is necessary, or if just reinforcing the trace is enough. Guess I'll just have to try it out and see, but I'd surely love to see a picture of your work if you have one, just for my own personal peace of mind. I get nervous working on stuff that is older than I am :)
 
@smeatr0n this is the repair carried out on the PCB (for this little fix, the board needed other repairs too).

Jump loop repair 1.JPG

The board had some areas reflowed, this was not the final solder this was tacked in, i pulled the resistor out and cleaned up the via on the top because when i desoldered the resistor it all disintegrated :rolleyes:

Jump loop repair 2 - R29 D6 trace.JPG

A few reflows here and there as above, and just a little trace added on the underside as shown.

Jump loop repair 3 - location on schematic.JPG

As confirmed earlier in the thread, the issue was in the marked area. With the board powered (and making a racket) I was getting 5v at R29, but 0.0v at the input of D6. Bridging the track and adding in a 1K resistor resolved the issue.
 
@smeatr0n this is the repair carried out on the PCB (for this little fix, the board needed other repairs too).

View attachment 641058

The board had some areas reflowed, this was not the final solder this was tacked in, i pulled the resistor out and cleaned up the via on the top because when i desoldered the resistor it all disintegrated :rolleyes:

View attachment 641059

A few reflows here and there as above, and just a little trace added on the underside as shown.

View attachment 641060

As confirmed earlier in the thread, the issue was in the marked area. With the board powered (and making a racket) I was getting 5v at R29, but 0.0v at the input of D6. Bridging the track and adding in a 1K resistor resolved the issue.
Thanks for the very detailed response. I'm going to be digging around in this cabinet in a week or two when my DK 2in1 switcher arrives so I'll use that opportunity to to give this a go. I happen to have 1k resistors on hand. I'll report back with my results, cheers :)
 
@smeatr0n this is the repair carried out on the PCB (for this little fix, the board needed other repairs too).

View attachment 641058

The board had some areas reflowed, this was not the final solder this was tacked in, i pulled the resistor out and cleaned up the via on the top because when i desoldered the resistor it all disintegrated :rolleyes:

View attachment 641059

A few reflows here and there as above, and just a little trace added on the underside as shown.

View attachment 641060

As confirmed earlier in the thread, the issue was in the marked area. With the board powered (and making a racket) I was getting 5v at R29, but 0.0v at the input of D6. Bridging the track and adding in a 1K resistor resolved the issue.
interesting! So this little fix takes care of the constant woowoowoowoowoo sound?
 
@smeatr0n this is the repair carried out on the PCB (for this little fix, the board needed other repairs too).

View attachment 641058

The board had some areas reflowed, this was not the final solder this was tacked in, i pulled the resistor out and cleaned up the via on the top because when i desoldered the resistor it all disintegrated :rolleyes:

View attachment 641059

A few reflows here and there as above, and just a little trace added on the underside as shown.

View attachment 641060

As confirmed earlier in the thread, the issue was in the marked area. With the board powered (and making a racket) I was getting 5v at R29, but 0.0v at the input of D6. Bridging the track and adding in a 1K resistor resolved the issue.
Well I finally got around to giving this a shot and... Unfortunately nothing changed for me. Next I'll try replacing the transistors.
 
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Same issue, I've replaced all the transistors already along with the diodes, recapped etc. Even replacing the 10k resistor with a 0hm one doesn't do the trick. Replacing the second pot helped a little as I think the orignal had gone open but the faint noise is still there.
 
Anybody ever confirm the fix for this?

There's another thread with the answer. (A potentiometer added to the soundboard in the monitor)

I'll link to it when I'm able to.
 
Found it:

 
Hmmmm... well. I'm running this pcb on a pcbjunkie adapter and still getting the sounds so....

It's the faint constant jumping sound I'm referring to.
 

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    20230827_182137.jpg
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Changing R29 from 10k to 1k just messes up the envelope of the sound.

R30+R29 into C17 gives a charging time constant when Q5 is off
R29 into C18 gives a discharging time constant when Q5 turns on

Replace C18 with a ceramic... it's prob leaky and not being a good HPF into Q5 when the '05 switches.

In any case, it's not a very well designed circuit -- if you 5V is too high, D7+D8 might not be enough of a voltage drop off the output of 8N for Q5+D6 to control well.
 
Found it:

The "hum" and the "siren" are two different issues; I have used the hum fix that you linked and it works great; both of my DK board sets still have the siren sound and I would love to find a fix for it.
 
ditto to all this. only thing i'd say is in my experience, the hum was way louder than the faint "siren" or "jumping" noises and unless the room is completely dead quiet, i can't really hear them. although i also have tinnitus so maybe i'm just deaf

The "hum" and the "siren" are two different issues; I have used the hum fix that you linked and it works great; both of my DK board sets still have the siren sound and I would love to find a fix for it.
 
ditto to all this. only thing i'd say is in my experience, the hum was way louder than the faint "siren" or "jumping" noises and unless the room is completely dead quiet, i can't really hear them. although i also have tinnitus so maybe i'm just deaf
That was my experience as well. In my case the hum was so loud, I never really heard the siren until I eliminated the hum. I've been waiting years for some 'Tendo' expert to post "Finally! a fix for the DK siren" but I haven't seen it yet . . .
 
Agreed

That was my experience as well. In my case the hum was so loud, I never really heard the siren until I eliminated the hum. I've been waiting years for some 'Tendo' expert to post "Finally! a fix for the DK siren" but I haven't seen it yet . . .
 
I know this is an old thread but fter doing a cap kit on the board I now have the loud siren sound. Any fixes out there?

Does anyone know who works on these boards that I could send it to get repaired?
 
I know this is an old thread but fter doing a cap kit on the board I now have the loud siren sound. Any fixes out there?

Does anyone know who works on these boards that I could send it to get repaired?
@MikesArcade is the man who repairs Nintendo boards. His website is also Mike's Arcade. That being said no one has found a fix for this siren sound. 😞
 
Thx. I've purchased many things from him before, so I'll reach out to him. It's just odd that this showed up after I recapped it. I'm guessing it's something I did.
 
Thx. I've purchased many things from him before, so I'll reach out to him. It's just odd that this showed up after I recapped it. I'm guessing it's something I did.
Yeah that is weird? Generally it's already there and then we try to fix it. Not the other way around. It has to be a cap in the sound section then. I would change back each one in the sound area one at a time for testing purposes and find out which cap is the culprit. Man that would help us all out too cuz we could try to swap out that cap that's the culprit.
 
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