Donkey Kong Faint jumping sound constantly.

Hi, my name is Jawhn and I am a DK jumpnoiseaholic as well.

(Hello, Jawhn)

I'm glad to be a part of this support group for a problem I thought only I had. A lot of the anxiety & weight on my shoulders has been lifted. I thank you all for that.

I have a 4 board set, and jump noise just does. Not. Shut. Up. :(
 
I've just dealt with this same issue. I got in a board that was perfect, except for the fact that the jumping sound was constantly repeating (i.e., not shutting off). On mine, it was as loud as the regular jump and it would stop for a few seconds after jumping (in the game or triggering the sound at 6L pin 13). After the jump was complete, the voltage at D6 would raise as it should to turn the sound off, but then it would slowly drop and the sound would come back. This drove me crazy and I replaced every part in the jump sound analog circuit without being able to solve it (like many others here). Others have been able to fix it by replacing caps or transistors in the analog circuit -- that didn't help me.

Well, after several days, I finally fixed it (in more of a desperate than scientific fashion). Hopefully this will help someone dealing with this. Here it is, after confirming that all of the parts in the analog sound section were tested good/replaced, I decided to go ahead and wash the board to ensure that crud from the years wasn't causing the issue. I removed all of the socketed chips and washed the board with Simple Green and a soft brush and rinsed with filtered water. I dried it thoroughly and replaced the chips. I plugged it back in and it has now worked for a day without an issue and, best of all, no constant jump sound in the background (not even a faint one). My theory is that some crud was causing a short and pulling the voltage at D6 down enough to allow the jump sound out (the jump sound is generated constantly but is blocked from output at D6 when not in use). I'm not sure if this was the case, but it is fixed. Hope this helps someone.
 
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Well, dang. I definitely never clean my PCBs if they're functional. May have to give this a try, thanka!

I always feel like I'm removing a protective layer of dirt.
 
Well, dang. I definitely never clean my PCBs if they're functional. May have to give this a try, thanka!

I always feel like I'm removing a protective layer of dirt.
Me neither. If they work, I tend to leave them alone. I couldn't get past the jump sound issue on this one. Good luck -- your mileage may vary. I'm not sure if it was crud, or maybe even something wedged in a socket or under a chip that came off when I washed it. Either way, I'm glad to get past it -- it was really frustrating me (so much that I disabled the jump sound altogether when I played it).
 
Didn't some find out that it's one of the transistors that's gone a bit out of spec?
 
Hi all I am trying to fix this for a friend. Same thing. Jump loop just not shutting the heck up.
I have:
- Replaced 6L with known good 74LS05
- Replaced 4049 at 8L
- Replaced NE556 at 8N
- Replaced C17
- Replaced D6, D7
- Replaced Q5 and Q4 with known good Transistors
Notes:
Even with Q5 removed and out of circuit I am still getting that jump loop. I thought that if the transistor is removed that the circuit before Q4 that there should be no circuit to energise Q4 but perhaps i'm not reading that correctly
To replicate this issue on my working board, I bridge the collector and emitter of Q5 and it makes the same noise. I have been chasing my own tail on this for a couple of weeks now and replaced most components that I suspected may be faulty.
No wonder there are no documented fixes to this, it's a tricky one :help:
 
Hold the phone

I just fixed this issue.
@ajcrm125 sir your sagely advice was the smoking gun in this.

Reading your post, you mentioned that your problem was the voltage across D6 wasn't high enough to keep D7 from opening up.
I checked my issue, on the common side of D6 and D7 I was reading about 3.5 VDC or something, however, on the +ve side of D6, 0.0v.
I thought that was extremely weird, as I had been through this post earlier, and one of the first things I had checked was that I had continuity between the R29 and D6. low resistance, like, 0.5 ohm across the track but still, a circuit nonetheless.

So I ruled that out as a cause. All the same, I had gone back over, this time with the board powered and this time checked across D6. 0.0v going in.
So I powered everything down and ripped the CPU board out for about the 20th time. I nicked a tiny amount of kynar wire and bridged R29 and D6 on the solder side. Powered up, now higher voltage through D6 this time, (D7 in 3.3v, D6 in 3.9v) and the board is running beautiful, beautiful silence :love::love::love:

Spread the word far and wide. This worked for me so if you have had any dramas check that tiny little trace. Through some form of miracle it still reads a circuit but also is not adequate enough to pass voltage. That seems to defy electronics and electrical principles for me, but anyhow it works rock solid.

Problem rating = 0 / 10 bananas, would definitely not try again :giggle::coffee2:
 
Anyone else had success with this? I picked up a DK last weekend with this same issue and the rabbit hole has lead me here. Before I start replacing all the caps and transistors, I'm thinking I'll give this a shot.

Nice avatar btw.
wow i flipped out for a sec there haha... oh man.
Yeah the problem with that analog circuit was that the path of least resistance ended up being the jump noise through the oscillator etc, and not through D6 like it should have been. It was a weird problem but the PCB i fixed for a friend back in september is still going strong. I substituted R29 (meant to be 10K) for a 1K resistor which seemed to assist in this instance. Let me know if you'd like some photos and I can dig them up and put them here. Good luck sir
 
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