Donkey Kong Blue from Home Depot (Behr)

That sign is awesome !

Thanks all for the help.

I have not gone to home depot to get the paint yet, but I will.
I pick up the cabinet in August, but it's bought and paid for, so that's a done deal.
I've ordered all my plastics so I'm going to do what I can.

Again thanks all !
 
Just picked up a gallon of Home Depot Behr Premium paint + primer (all in one) Liquid Blue semi-gloss. So I'm excited to get this going.

Thanks all
 
Nice! Can't wait to see it. Oil-based paint is non-existent in NW Ohio now. I couldn't find it anywhere, I drove up into Michigan to get some for a Nincab. Still haven't painted it. lol
 
I thought I would post these as my cabinet came on Sunday.
I haven't started to paint, but I will shortly.
Color is a good match !
 

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They don't appear to match, but "520B-5 Liquid Blue" is the closest of the three.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New york.

Dude, dont mess around with it. Get it matched. I got it matched at shermin williams...Code is here:

BAC COLORANT OZ 32 64 128
W1 White 6 28 - 1
L1 BLUE 2 27 - -
R3 Magenta - 2 1 -
Y3 Deep Gold - 6 - -

One Gallon ULTRADEEP
LATEX
SATIN IFC 7012

Virtually a perfect match for mine. I will say that I wish I had gone with a higher gloss to match the original material used which has more of a sheen to it.
 
I already picked up a gallon the Liquid Blue paint + primer.

It will turn out fine. Honestly, most people won't tell the difference it's so subtle. I've had a bunch of different collectors over and they all think my DK looks great. I haven't had one guy say "Man, that really looks a shade off and lacks sheen, maybe you should consider a repainting with oil-based." :)

If you don't mind spending the extra money and really want that 100% match (which isn't possibly IMO due to the cab colors fading/changing over 20+ years regardless if you get a chip from the inside), then it's cool to get the higher quality oil-based.
 
It will turn out fine. Honestly, most people won't tell the difference it's so subtle. I've had a bunch of different collectors over and they all think my DK looks great. I haven't had one guy say "Man, that really looks a shade off and lacks sheen, maybe you should consider a repainting with oil-based." :)

I can tell and if I saw your Jess I would say the shade is off and you have repro side art,I can tell by the finger nails.:D
 
With a roll-on latex, would it be possible to varnish the cabinet, say with an acrylic varnish? This seems like it would give you the best of both worlds, the benefits of fast-curing, inexpensive latex paint with a glossy appearance, a level of protection for the coating and no latex "sticky" feeling.

Thoughts? Has anyone tried this?
 
With a roll-on latex, would it be possible to varnish the cabinet, say with an acrylic varnish? This seems like it would give you the best of both worlds, the benefits of fast-curing, inexpensive latex paint with a glossy appearance, a level of protection for the coating and no latex "sticky" feeling.

Thoughts? Has anyone tried this?

I think you may be assuming a lot with all that. I picked up several cans of Valspar(Signature Colors) Semi-Gloss Finish, which is paint and primer in one product.

I asked the salesman at Lowes if there was a clear gloss that I could spray over that to make the paint job more durable and he recommended "Valspar Clear Gloss".

I just called Valspar to ask the same question and the lady came across as not knowing squat before saying no. (I've gotten contradictory answers between company representatives and sales people at Home Depot over some Behrs paint I have also).

Basically getting some answers will come down to trail and error. So since I have the Valspar Clear Gloss, so I'll try it to see what happens.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

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Consider the original finish was likely neither latex or oil based, but lacquer.

Oil-based (in my opinion) looks closer to the original finish. Most of all, to me, it sprays MUCH better than latex. You can spray water based finishes, provided you have a good spray gun with the proper (larger) tip. You can spray oil-based finishes, thinned with acetone or whatever, out of a cheaper HVLP gun and get a slick finish. Latex also tends to have a sticky-ness about it, even after curing. Oil-based finishes take longer to dry, but when they do, they dry hard.

I can say I've done both. I did the base coat on a pinball cabinet in water based (latex). Latex has come a long way, and it looks great, but it just doesn't spray as well as oil-based. Also, it does have that sticky-ness about it. I did the entire base coat and stencil job on a Stargate cabinet, using all oil-based (RustOleum) finishes and it came out awesome.

99% sure that it's gelcoat. It looks like gelcoat, feels like gelcoat, and has the exact plastic-y aroma of gelcoat when ground.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gelcoat
 
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