Does someone repair Nintendo power supplies

Mm. Makes sense. So, my recapping, frustration and energy is in vain. Ah, oh well. I'll get that switcher that was suggested and call it a day. I give up chasing gremlins
I have pulled one apart and have to sketch out the little PCB, figure out what each component was (it was surface mount stuff in the early 1980s - pretty rare) and then get it to someone to make new ones.

It's on my project list. I just need to get off my butt and get to it.
 
I have pulled one apart and have to sketch out the little PCB, figure out what each component was (it was surface mount stuff in the early 1980s - pretty rare) and then get it to someone to make new ones.

It's on my project list. I just need to get off my butt and get to it.
You've got more ambition than I do. Making a pcb sounds awesome, but also a lot of time and money needed.
 
You've got more ambition than I do. Making a pcb sounds awesome, but also a lot of time and money needed.
For something like this, which would give people a way to get PP-07A and PP-07B power supplies working, it's worth the effort. This was potted into the darn boxes. I was able to get one scraped off, and read the chip number off the potting compound (which removed the name from the chip).

That's what makes this so much fun.
 
For something like this, which would give people a way to get PP-07A and PP-07B power supplies working, it's worth the effort. This was potted into the darn boxes. I was able to get one scraped off, and read the chip number off the potting compound (which removed the name from the chip).

That's what makes this so much fun.
Rock on!
 
Shakes and waves can be a monitor issue. It is dependent on how you routed the cable. Another thing that can be done is clean both the horizontal hold and vertical hold pots with contact cleaner. same with the position pots on both the monitor board and game board. You can clean them with electronic contact cleaner. Nintendo games do just have a slight jitter a lot.

Regarding the power supply, I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that the 5V regulator custom went bad. It worked before you recapped it (I think I read that) and now it doesn't work. Odds are it was something that happened there. They so go bad but not SUPER often.
Oh my god, I just put the original 20ez chassis (not recapped) back in and everything is fixed. I think there's some inconsistency between the two chassis's because I bought the recapped one here from a known good seller. God I feel so dumb with the whole power supply witch hunt. It seemed like a newer chassis than what was originally in mine. I guess I'll leave it until it really fails. I hopes buying a new chassis would make it bullet proof… but it only sent me on a goose chase. Lesson learned.
 
Oh my god, I just put the original 20ez chassis (not recapped) back in and everything is fixed. I think there's some inconsistency between the two chassis's because I bought the recapped one here from a known good seller. God I feel so dumb with the whole power supply witch hunt. It seemed like a newer chassis than what was originally in mine. I guess I'll leave it until it really fails. I hopes buying a new chassis would make it bullet proof… but it only sent me on a goose chase. Lesson learned.
Yay!
 
Never mind the new supply has the same issue. I tried it in my other dk, and the issue followed. I tested a good PSU and this one and the values (not under load) are exactly the same for 5v, -5v, and 24v. So I'm just confused
Could be AC ripple getting through the caps.

Not Mad Dog 20/20 Ripple.
 
These are the voltages you should be reading on the PP-7B. Can you confirm that you're getting those?

10 pin connector to Video

1 Brown –5v
2 Red –5v
3 Orange –5v
4 Yellow –5v
5 Green Ground
6 Blue Ground
7 Purple Ground
8 Gray Ground
9 White +5v
10 Black +5v

9 pin connector to CPU

1 Brown Ground
2 Red Ground
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow +12v
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple +5v
8 Gray –5v
9 White +24v (meter)

7 pin connector to Sound

1 Brown +16v
2 Red +16v
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow Ground
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple –5v
 
These are the voltages you should be reading on the PP-7B. Can you confirm that you're getting those?

10 pin connector to Video

1 Brown –5v
2 Red –5v
3 Orange –5v
4 Yellow –5v
5 Green Ground
6 Blue Ground
7 Purple Ground
8 Gray Ground
9 White +5v
10 Black +5v

9 pin connector to CPU

1 Brown Ground
2 Red Ground
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow +12v
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple +5v
8 Gray –5v
9 White +24v (meter)

7 pin connector to Sound

1 Brown +16v
2 Red +16v
3 Orange Ground
4 Yellow Ground
5 Green +12v
6 Blue +5v
7 Purple –5v
One of the power supplies gets nothing on any pin. The other gets roughly these values in range
 
One of the power supplies gets nothing on any pin. The other gets roughly these values in range
have you checked to see if any of the fuses are dead?, switch your meter to continuity mode (will have a little speakerr icon and you meter will beep when you touch the probes togetther) and put your probes on each end of each fuse and see if any of them beep or dont beep
 
have you checked to see if any of the fuses are dead?, switch your meter to continuity mode (will have a little speakerr icon and you meter will beep when you touch the probes togetther) and put your probes on each end of each fuse and see if any of them beep or dont beep
Yep. Fuse checks okay. I think I must have lifted a trace and I'm trying to find it but haven't been successful quite yet.
 
I've seen this one before. Check the underside of the headers. They often come loose from all of the plugging and unplugging of connectors and this creates cracked solder joints. Reflow solder onto the header pins, but make sure you don't short the pins.
Good idea! I'll try that when I break it out again. Thanks!
 
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