Does somebody here sell 6 in 1 jamma switchers

Crazy Climber

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Hello
Does anybody here sell those silly remote control 6 in 1 jamma switchers? I know they have them on Ebay but I would rather support one of you guys and I'm not really on here enough to know who sells what. If anybody stocks them let me know since I will be looking for one or two pretty soon, Thanks!
 
www.jammaboards.com

A few notes on the switchers:

a) if you use midway boards (Mortal Kombat, Killer Instinct, NBA JAM, War Gods) you will need to mod them for the -5 volt line.

b) If you ever plan on using your service switch you will need to mod the board with diodes

c) Check the voltage at the slots on your switcher it isn't uncommon to have the 5 volt line missing.

What games were you thinking of putting in it?
 
I was thinking of adding one to my Crusin Cab to play both Offroad Challenge and Crusin USA. I assue the -5 mod will have to be completed.
 
Semi-related topic (and semi thread jack), would anything need to be done to this to play Simpsons, X-men COTA, Captain America, and TMNT on one of these?
 
I'm in the process of doing that right now. Have an X-Men cab and my 6-in-1 came yesterday. So far have TMNT along with X-Men and Simpsons, Captain America and the Avengers and Sunset Riders on the way. It shouldn't need the -5v hack with those boards, but I'll be able to tell you for sure tonight when I hook it up.

The main work will be in creating the Jamma+ harnesses for 3P/4P for each game. You'll have to solder in diodes for each wire coming off your 3P/4P controls FOR each harness. I haven't started on that yet, but will soon. The main question I'd like to ask about that is if you can daisy chain the harnesses together (that is, 3P/4P to 1st slot board, diodes, to 2nd slot board, diodes, to 3rd slot board, etc.) or if it need to all come off the 3P/4P controls at one spice point, tons of diodes, then to each board.

I've seen it described in the latter way, but never the first. At least the daisy chain method, if sound, would create less wire clutter.
 
I'm in the process of doing that right now. Have an X-Men cab and my 6-in-1 came yesterday. So far have TMNT along with X-Men and Simpsons, Captain America and the Avengers and Sunset Riders on the way. It shouldn't need the -5v hack with those boards, but I'll be able to tell you for sure tonight when I hook it up.

The main work will be in creating the Jamma+ harnesses for 3P/4P for each game. You'll have to solder in diodes for each wire coming off your 3P/4P controls FOR each harness. I haven't started on that yet, but will soon. The main question I'd like to ask about that is if you can daisy chain the harnesses together (that is, 3P/4P to 1st slot board, diodes, to 2nd slot board, diodes, to 3rd slot board, etc.) or if it need to all come off the 3P/4P controls at one spice point, tons of diodes, then to each board.

I've seen it described in the latter way, but never the first. At least the daisy chain method, if sound, would create less wire clutter.

I believe the daisy chain method still result it signal feedback, I do recall reading that somewhere. But hey give it a go, if it works it works, if not just out a little time and some diodes. Word of thought don't get the cheapo readioshack diodes.
 
www.jammaboards.com

A few notes on the switchers:

a) if you use midway boards (Mortal Kombat, Killer Instinct, NBA JAM, War Gods) you will need to mod them for the -5 volt line.

b) If you ever plan on using your service switch you will need to mod the board with diodes

c) Check the voltage at the slots on your switcher it isn't uncommon to have the 5 volt line missing.

What games were you thinking of putting in it?

Thanks for the tips :) The games I plan on using should be pretty standard, just some run of the mill beat em ups, but I guess I'm not really sure about there compatibility so here is a list...
1 - Double Dragon
2 - Bad Dudes
3 - T.M.N.T.
4 - Final Fight
5 - Moonwalker
6 - Street Fighter 2 (in the cabinet currently, already has + wiring hooked up)
Do you know if these would all work worry free? I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty if needed but I do prefer to just plug and play, I am sure I could think of some back up choices as well if any of these are problematic...
 
Well, I plugged in my boards tonight and had some trouble. It powered both the X-Men and TMNT fine, but it wouldn't recognize the coin up for any input. In fact, it even killed the lights to the 1P and 2P coin slot. Is that because of the lack of -5v on the board?

Anyway, I can't play it for now. Just for reference, I had the Jamma+ 3P/4P harnesses hooked up to the X-Men board -- same problem.
 
Well, I plugged in my boards tonight and had some trouble. It powered both the X-Men and TMNT fine, but it wouldn't recognize the coin up for any input. In fact, it even killed the lights to the 1P and 2P coin slot. Is that because of the lack of -5v on the board?

Anyway, I can't play it for now. Just for reference, I had the Jamma+ 3P/4P harnesses hooked up to the X-Men board -- same problem.

Shouldnt be a -5 volt issue.

Generally speaking the -5 volt line isnt used, but for Midway games it is used for sound.

I have no idea why you had that issue. Trace the line coin mech line back to the slot you used and see if you have power with a multimeter. Simple fix is to set your boards to free play...
 
Don't you have to adjust the monitor every time after you switch games? If so, what's the point in a remote 'automatic' switcher?

I do in my cab because the vertical size is a bit different, as is the brightness and contrast...

I have a multisync monitor but it doesn't have digital controls and digital memory. But even so, I'm not sure how much those would help.
 
Don't you have to adjust the monitor every time after you switch games? If so, what's the point in a remote 'automatic' switcher?

I do in my cab because the vertical size is a bit different, as is the brightness and contrast...

I have a multisync monitor but it doesn't have digital controls and digital memory. But even so, I'm not sure how much those would help.

Depending on the game, no adjustment is necessary. I made a multi shooting game and used a 6-1 and it worked fine. Both boards were made by the same manufacturer/developer though.
 
How do you get around having all boards powered ,are the player start buttons switched as well

The switcher only powers the slot that is selected.
All controls are switched when a slot is selected.

demongo said:
Don't you have to adjust the monitor every time after you switch games? If so, what's the point in a remote 'automatic' switcher?
The point is not to have to pull the cab away from the wall everytime a game switch is needed.
My monitor has a remote board that I mounted inside the coin door so I can make small adjustments to the pic.
Another thing I did was splice into the yoke wires and ran them to the coin door,using connectors I can flip the screen right at the coin door when needed.
I opted for connectors instead of switches because the voltage in the horiz. coil
exceeds the ratings of switches commonly available by a large margin.
I didn't want to take any chances.
 
The switcher only powers the slot that is selected.
All controls are switched when a slot is selected.


The point is not to have to pull the cab away from the wall everytime a game switch is needed.
My monitor has a remote board that I mounted inside the coin door so I can make small adjustments to the pic.
Another thing I did was splice into the yoke wires and ran them to the coin door,using connectors I can flip the screen right at the coin door when needed.
I opted for connectors instead of switches because the voltage in the horiz. coil
exceeds the ratings of switches commonly available by a large margin.
I didn't want to take any chances.

Good info.

I ran my remote board into the CP and I have the CP setup where it doesn't need to lock and it stays secure but I can flip it up and adjust the monitor as needed. (It's a Gauntlet Legends cab).

I used a very unorthodox approach where I avoided the jamma switcher entirely and just switch games inside my CP.

I have a Bob Roberts jamma extension harness coming from each of my 2 games into the CP and one more that goes from inside my CP to the jamma connector in the cab.

So to swap games I just plug the jamma cable from whichever game I want to play into the the cab's jamma harness and I'm switched. And for the kick harnesses, each one has a 9 pin molex adapter that I just unplug and move to the game that I want.

It takes about 30 seconds to switch games including adjusting my monitor. Just plug in whatever 3 connectors I want to play and I'm done -- no feedback, no complications, no compatibility issues.

It works well for me.
 
Good info.

I ran my remote board into the CP and I have the CP setup where it doesn't need to lock and it stays secure but I can flip it up and adjust the monitor as needed. (It's a Gauntlet Legends cab).

I used a very unorthodox approach where I avoided the jamma switcher entirely and just switch games inside my CP.

I have a Bob Roberts jamma extension harness coming from each of my 2 games into the CP and one more that goes from inside my CP to the jamma connector in the cab.

So to swap games I just plug the jamma cable from whichever game I want to play into the the cab's jamma harness and I'm switched. And for the kick harnesses, each one has a 9 pin molex adapter that I just unplug and move to the game that I want.

It takes about 30 seconds to switch games including adjusting my monitor. Just plug in whatever 3 connectors I want to play and I'm done -- no feedback, no complications, no compatibility issues.

It works well for me.

My way looks cooler...I mean come on a remote! :)

I have no issues with my monitor but my games are MK, MKII, UMK3, MK4 and WarGods, so pretty similar there.
 
My way looks cooler...I mean come on a remote! :)

I have no issues with my monitor but my games are MK, MKII, UMK3, MK4 and WarGods, so pretty similar there.

Mine are NBA Jam and Gauntlet Legends -- very different boards.

But so far so good -- no interference between games, perfect compatibility, no relays going out, no -5v issues, only one boardset is powered at a time, etc.

I guess I have a "low tech" answer to the problem but it works for me.
 
Mine are NBA Jam and Gauntlet Legends -- very different boards.

But so far so good -- no interference between games, perfect compatibility, no relays going out, no -5v issues, only one boardset is powered at a time, etc.

I guess I have a "low tech" answer to the problem but it works for me.

With the 6-in-1 switcher only one board is powered at a time, that is what kept me from getting Clay Cowgill's switcher.

I was very very close to choosing your way of doing it. In retrospect it would have saved me: at least $150.00, 3 weeks of headaches for not only me but Zenomorp(who was kind enough to mod and fix my switcher...AWESOME GUY BTW), and a lot of shipping.

But like I said...I have a remote! :)
 
Thanks for the tips :) The games I plan on using should be pretty standard, just some run of the mill beat em ups, but I guess I'm not really sure about there compatibility so here is a list...
1 - Double Dragon
2 - Bad Dudes
3 - T.M.N.T.
4 - Final Fight
5 - Moonwalker
6 - Street Fighter 2 (in the cabinet currently, already has + wiring hooked up)
Do you know if these would all work worry free? I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty if needed but I do prefer to just plug and play, I am sure I could think of some back up choices as well if any of these are problematic...

Just stick with Wii dumb dumb....even my 6 year old can operate it. WOOF!
 
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