ScumBum
Well-known member
Is there a good one ? I've only heard people say they suck and theres constant power fed to the boards , or something like that , which is bad . Should I get one or instead just swap out PCB's when I wanna play a new game .
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Cool ! Yeah let us know if you get one and how it works out . That same guys is also selling a 6 n 1 , http://cgi.ebay.com/Remote-Control-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item483928dcf4
i recently heard from someone who had just bought one of Clay's kits from http://www.multigame.com/jamma.html (apparently, despite many rumors to the contrary, he is still making and selling them.)
I just pulled a trade with Clay for one of his switchers which he said just came in a new batch... so yes, he is still making/selling these. I've heard nothing but great things about Clay's switchers so I'm excited to get it installed into my cab. Hopefully I'll have time to get that done in the next week.
I also have one of these 6 in 1's. However I had not had the same good luck as Jimkirk has had. I've had 3 of my power relay's burn out. Kept asking jammaboards for replacement relays(since I bought it from them). And he told me that he does have some extra relays, but they are for the "New" ones that he gets in and says that he uses them as replacments when the new boards from china fail right off the bat, so the extra's are for those. In other words it was tough sh*t for me. So now my 6 in 1 is a 3 in 1. (i could probably find replacements, just haven't looked as hard yet)
So yes, when the 6 in1 worked properly. It was great. As Jimkirk mentioned you have to do the -5v mod. But this switcher does just power up one board at a time. Which is good.
However don't lose the remote as THAT is your only means to switch boards.
;
I switched the non-working one to another channel, and it worked for a day. 2 weeks later, same thing. Switched it to the last open working channel, next time I powered it up, that board again was dead. Now that it too has stopped working, I am left with a 2 in 1. That sucks.
Hi, I am in the same boat. Bought a 6 in 1 to replace a 2 in 1. Funny thing is, out of the box, channel 2 never had sound, so I at first had a 5 in 1. Now I have 3 boards hooked up in the cab, but only 2 work. I switched the non-working one to another channel, and it worked for a day. 2 weeks later, same thing. Switched it to the last open working channel, next time I powered it up, that board again was dead. Now that it too has stopped working, I am left with a 2 in 1. That sucks.
I got one of these boards in last night. I'll shoot a picture of the relays and try to post it later tonight or tomorrow. I think you're right about the wrong relays being used.10A SPDT relays or 8A DPDT (enough for many, but not all boards) can be had for around $1-$2 each here: http://www.futurlec.com/RelDip.shtml However, not owning one of these, I don't know what the pinout is and how many lines they're switching. A closeup pic of the board would help.
However, not owning one of these, I don't know what the pinout is and how many lines they're switching. A closeup pic of the board would help.
They're using a SRE-12VDC-SL-2C Chinese (Songle) relay http://www.songle.com/prodimg/200849045112235.JPG.
Edit: Found the datasheet for it at Songle's site: http://www.songle.com/pdf/20084141618381000.pdf
It appears they are double pole and 5 Amp per pole, and they're using 2 of them which means it can switch 4 lines.
However, looking at the pinout to the male end of the card edge Jamma connector, they're putting all 4, +5 volt pins onto one single pole. This means that 5 amps is the maximum that it can switch on the +5V line!
Then they entirely skip the -5V line (meaning that's dead and never fed to the slots to the boards) and then they use another pole on each of the relays to do the +12V switching into 2 lines. meaning they can switch a total of 10 Amp of +12V, which makes no sense since +12V usually is a lot lower amp draw than the +5V line. (1A-2A of +12V vs. 5A-10A of +5V). Then they're using the last pole of the 2nd relay to switch one lead of the speaker connector on pin 10.
In other words, from looking at the pictures this is just a completely horrible design, unless I'm not seeing something correctly. If what I see is correct they should have swapped +5 and +12 to have 2 poles for +5 and 1 pole for +12. then they would have 10A +5V and 5A +12V switching, much more in line with current draw on Jamma boards.
I'll do some more looking later but that's what I gather from a quick peek.
Those Bastards !!
Can these boards be easily modded ?