DL2 Monitor Problem

Jordanb27

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I recently purchased a DL2 and everything went perfect for about 15 minutes. After that, the monitor gradually faded to black. The game still played and the sound was fine but there was no picture.

I powered it down, and powered it back up. The game started up fine again and played for about 5 minutes, then faded to black and the same scenario.

This scenario kept happening until now, which it basically goes to black immediately upon powerup. The game still plays, and the sound is heard but no picture.

Any ideas with this problem? Where should I start? Also, please keep in mind I am new to this. Thanks ;)
 
Make and model of the monitor installed?
Thanks for your reply. It is a Zenith G-A63ADG25x - 04Rc0105-009. Serial #: OEM 045355

I turned it back on again when I was home, now the screen does not come on at all, but the game still plays and sounds fine, just no picture. It started out getting about 15 minutes of picture before it faded to black, at increasingly got less with now, no picture at all. Any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
In case you don't have this information already (and I'm guessing you don't based on mixing up the tube model / chassis model originally the way we all do (myself included) when we start out), Ken refers to "Recapping" the monitor, which means to replace the capacitors on the chassis. Sets of the capacitors ("cap kits") can be ordered from Bob Roberts here: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/caps.html

There are videos and countless tutorials on youtube and this site on how to discharge the monitor, how to remove components on a through-hole PCB, how to solder new components in, and how to do a cap kit in general. Before I got into this hobby, I was decent enough with a solder gun to know which end to hold and which end is hot and burny. Now, thanks to asking questions here, watching videos on youtube, and getting a few of these repairs under my belt, I'm confident and handy enough to tackle these problems.

If you don't feel like tackling it yourself, there are a number of people on the forums who would probably be willing to do the cap kit for you for a fee, either someone local, or someone you can ship the chassis off to.
 
Recap it and inspect for bad solder joints on the main board.

In case you don't have this information already (and I'm guessing you don't based on mixing up the tube model / chassis model originally the way we all do (myself included) when we start out), Ken refers to "Recapping" the monitor, which means to replace the capacitors on the chassis. Sets of the capacitors ("cap kits") can be ordered from Bob Roberts here: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/caps.html

There are videos and countless tutorials on youtube and this site on how to discharge the monitor, how to remove components on a through-hole PCB, how to solder new components in, and how to do a cap kit in general. Before I got into this hobby, I was decent enough with a solder gun to know which end to hold and which end is hot and burny. Now, thanks to asking questions here, watching videos on youtube, and getting a few of these repairs under my belt, I'm confident and handy enough to tackle these problems.

If you don't feel like tackling it yourself, there are a number of people on the forums who would probably be willing to do the cap kit for you for a fee, either someone local, or someone you can ship the chassis off to.
Thanks a lot for the feedback. After doing some more research I think it is a cap kit that is needed. I messed around with the controls and ended up getting a picture out of the monitor, but some colors seem not to work and there are horizontal bars on the screen that will not go away if there is a decent picture. I checked out the capacitors on the board and I noticed 2-3 of them that had a small pool of liquid around the bottom, looking like it started from the top, and appeared to be leaking. They were not bulging at all, but this liquid made me think they are/were leaking and this might be the cause of the gradual loss of the screen and color quality?. So, I guess I am off to buy a cap kit and I am going to try it myself as I am sure I will have to do it again. Thanks again!
 
The pool of liquid you see is actually a glue that was used at initial installment. It is a good sign that the caps are original. You may want to look at repalacing the flyback as well.
 
The pool of liquid you see is actually a glue that was used at initial installment. It is a good sign that the caps are original. You may want to look at repalacing the flyback as well.
Thanks for your feedback, I was wondering if that was the case. The liquid is 2 different colors, one was a light-ish yellow, which I think was the glue, and the other was a darker red color, which had me wondering.

Would you recommend I try the cap kit first and see if that fixes the issue, or should I go ahead and try to replace them both while I am at it? Thanks again
 
Thanks for your feedback, I was wondering if that was the case. The liquid is 2 different colors, one was a light-ish yellow, which I think was the glue, and the other was a darker red color, which had me wondering.

Would you recommend I try the cap kit first and see if that fixes the issue, or should I go ahead and try to replace them both while I am at it? Thanks again

I've not yet had to replace a flyback, but on some monitors (go7 comes to mind), replacing the caps will cause the HOT and flyback to fry. Generally speaking, it's simpler to make one order from Bob Roberts, pull the chassis out once, repair it all at once (all caps, flyback, etc), and you're done.
 
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In my experience the original flybacks on the K7000 series monitors tend to fail at near the same time as the caps. They crack and begin arcing or they have trouble maintaining focus. However, as stated above it isn't always necessary to replace them. I like to be prepared so I always keep a flyback and a HOT on hand just in case.
 
I've not yet had to replace a flyback, but on some monitors (go7 comes to mind), replacing the caps will cause the HOT and flyback to fry. Generally speaking, it's simpler to make one order from Bob Roberts, pull the chassis out once, repair it all at once (all caps, flyback, etc), and you're done.

In my experience the original flybacks on the K7000 series monitors tend to fail at near the same time as the caps. They crack and begin arcing or they have trouble maintaining focus. However, as stated above it isn't always necessary to replace them. I like to be prepared so I always keep a flyback and a HOT on hand just in case.
Ok, thanks a lot for your feedback. I will go ahead and order both, as I agree it is better to have and not need than need and not have. ;) This should be fun . . .
 
Ok, thanks a lot for your feedback. I will go ahead and order both, as I agree it is better to have and not need than need and not have. ;) This should be fun . . .

You know, I dreaded doing my first one, but it ended up being fun. I kind of want to buy more games just so I have projects to work on. I like to keep busy and electronics stuff is fun.
 
You know, I dreaded doing my first one, but it ended up being fun. I kind of want to buy more games just so I have projects to work on. I like to keep busy and electronics stuff is fun.
I agree, I think I will end up enjoying it and I came across another machine I was thinking of picking up where the monitor "went bad" about a week ago. I have a feeling it is probably an easy fix, and may end up picking it up if this goes well and give it a try. Just what I need to further my addiction and collection . . .
 
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