DK Sanyo 20EZ Wavy Side

curtis-r

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I feel like a noob because I feel like I've had this issue in the past...

I was hoping someone with more knowledge than I can direct me to which cap(s) might cause this wave on the left long axis, so I don't have to just do them all.
 

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Compared to how little this machine is used, it really wasn't that long ago I've replaced all the caps. I was hoping I could narrow down which ones causes his problem.
 
Compared to how little this machine is used, it really wasn't that long ago I've replaced all the caps. I was hoping I could narrow down which ones causes his problem.

remember caps go bad with time not just by use. they dry out even when not used so if you didn't use a quality kit they could be bad after a few years or less.
 
Have you tried simply adjusting H Hold? Had the same thing when putting a freshly re-capped chassis in, before making any adjustments. It was just at the edge of staying in sync, and looked exactly like your picture.
 
Revisiting my issue

I tried adjusting the DK pots, checking both, and changing one to 50 ohms, to no avail. Time got away from me, but I'm pretty sure I also changed C407 a while back. Sorry for not documenting at that time, but I think things worked for just a bit, but now it's wavy again.

What has always bothered me is the 22uF 250v cap that connects the "DOWN" J32 to R414 (470 ohm) - see photo. It's swollen and this isn't the first time. What is it doing there? I don't just want to replace it if that's only going to work for a short time.

Also, why does my C407 look so small for the pot provided? It's the correct specs, yes?

Thanks to all for their great input.
 

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its because you have garbage caps. replace them all with good quality and move on.
 
its because you have garbage caps. replace them all with good quality and move on.

I just used your Sanyo board cap kit and no improvement. I didn't bother with the audio board since it's working fine. I removed the bad 22uF 250v of unknown origin and did not replace it. I didn't do the B+ pot.

Any ideas?
 
Tested the B+ voltage. Was @ 110. Left it at 108.

Also temporarily installed a new one of that oddly placed 22uF cap. No improvement so I removed it.
 
Did you try tweaking the (super inconveniently located) horiz hold pot on the chassis? If I'm not mistaken on the 20ez when it's just slightly off you get that "sag" on one side of the screen.
 
I would suggest testing the board in another cab or if you have a Jr board toss it in there. I had a DK PCB that mimic'ed this problem and it was 100% PCB related. I ended up selling it as is.

I'll try and dig up my old thread.
 
Did you try tweaking the horiz hold pot on the chassis?

I sprayed the monitor board pot with contact cleaner, left it for a while, then turned it full both ways. Once I adjusted it to stability, the problem was still there. I have never replaced that pot and don't have a spare, but of course can get one if someone thinks there is a good chance that is the issue.

I would suggest testing the board in another cab.

Just as good, I have an extra DK board. Just swapped it and same issue, so at least we know it's the monitor. Thanks though.

I'm still nagged by the random, hi-jacked 22uF pot in this post that was bad. I don't have that pot in any more, but I had soldered wire leads so I could temporarily try a new one, which I did with no change/improvement at all so I guess it served no purpose.
 
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Changed pot

I replaced the on-board horizontal pot, per suggestion. No luck. Any new ideas?
 
I changed all the caps & most of the pots, and still no joy. I tried taking it to a local TV repair shop (yes, slim pickings these days) and they said it would be $300-400 b/c I've already done the easy stuff, so I took it back home. Any further advice?
 

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