Dk JR monitor help:)

Seabass

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Hi. I am new here so please forgive the the question if it has already been answered. I have searched threads like "Nintendo monitor repair " "Sanyo EZ monitor repair" but I have not been able to find what i am looking for.

Problem... I just picked up a Dk Jr cab with no PCB boards. The monitor, power supply, and controls are all present. The power unit works and the monitor hums but does not display a picture. There was a faint "burning" smell so i shut is down. The board looks good without scorching or signs of electrical trauma. (I did not plug the monitor directly into the wall but i cant be certain that it was not done before i got it)

Questions...
Is it worth having repaired? and where should I have that done. I live in Modesto Ca. I did find a place on-line Arcade CRT http://www.arcadecup.com/... any opinions?

I do have some 22 inch computer CRTs that i could use... is there an adapter card for this?

Your help is appreciated!

Thanks.

#2
 
There are *lots* of threads on the Sanyo :)

I'm going to guess that the flyback is fried, and someone put the wrong fuse (or a nail) in the fuse holder. At the back of the chassis (closest to the back of the game) is a little fuse holder that's supposed to contain a 300ma fuse. Check to see if it's either blown, or perhaps the wrong fuse. I once found a 7A fuse jammed in one - and the large ceramic resistor was getting *very* hot and making a burning smell.

If that's the case, then plan on a new flyback, HOT, fuse, and might as well do caps while you have it out.

If you're not interested in repairing it yourself, sending it out is definitely an option. Chad at ArcadeCup is a great guy, does excellent work, and he's also the primary source for replacement Sanyo flybacks. He can definitely fix your monitor. He posts here from time to time.

If you want to fix it yourself, we can help you through it. Do you have any tools or electronic experience?

It's definitely worth repairing, especially if the picture tube is in good shape.

A computer monitor really isn't much of an option - you need a fair amount of hardware to make it work, you need an adapter board to convert the 15.75khz RGB to VGA, and you also need an inverter board (Nintendo games use inverted video). You'd have to come up with your own mounting hardware to secure the computer monitor into the game, and when all is said and done, you'd probably spend about the same amount of time and money. And the picture won't look quite as good as a real arcade monitor.

-Ian
 
Or maybe it's one of those funny 100V monitors. I forget too much lead soldering I guess LOL.

Could be the flyback or the high voltage transister. Arcade monitors normally need an isolation transformer. Some like my little phoneix game has a step down transformer. It was 220 to 100V. Now it's 120V to 100V. I just refuse to get a Step up transformer only to step it back down again.

If your planing to keep it forever. It is worth buying a new flyback and a cap kit or sending it out to get repaired. Now if the glass tube is having issues or has exxcessive burning on a screen. Finding a a better one might be an option
 
thanks

Thank you. I do have some electrical exp. but mostly in cars and such... not much on CPU boards. I am good with a soldering gun... i'm sure that helps. I am not sure about the picture tube... how would i check that? I guess I will be fixing it... I might even do it my self.
 
Well, you won't have to work on the CPU board - just the monitor chassis. It's a single sided board, and therefore fairly easy to work with.

Provided the picture tube doesn't have hideous burn, and isn't broken, it should be fine. Sanyo tubes are some of the best.

A while ago I documented "how to take apart a Sanyo" for someone with a different problem. But, since you still need to take the monitor apart, read this:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=183237

Note that those instructions were done from memory (and my memory, at that), your mileage may vary :D

Before diving in and taking the monitor apart, just pull the monitor out of the game and carefully inspect the chassis. Check that fuse - also check for burn marks, or anything that looks to be the source of the burning smell.

-Ian
 
found one issue... I think

here is link to pic in my albums... i was testing just to see where the power ended on the board.... here it is

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/album.php?albumid=604&pictureid=4888

Also, i noticed that i don't have the small inverter board that sits on top of teh flyback cage... but the only loose wire is the small 6 pin ribbon connector... any thought on where i should look to find one?

I did just read that some of the older monitors did not have them... so then where would that white small 6 pin ribbon cable go? I just bought a set of boards they should be here in few days... sorry for the lame questions.
 
Last edited:
Cable

The cable is about an inch in width. I am not sure what I'm missing then I will take a pic and post for help:)
 
that wite wire will go to the board set it's your video connection from the logic board to the monitor.

to run a Nintendo PCB you don't need the inverter board.
it was used when games were converted and didn't use inverted video.

Peace
Buffett
 
So that cable would plug into the pbc boards? I know the dk jr has two but what remote board are you referring to?
 
Thanks

Got it... Update was slow on my phone disregard the last posts.
Also... The first pic of the resistor(?) the big white ceranic one... It has power on one side but not the other... Where can I get that part?
 
I owe some beer I'm certain of it

If I ever get the chance I'll have to buy you all a beer or two for helping me out... My kids and I are having a blast with this stuff! I have a galaga cabaret that is up and running and my PAC man is just waiting on a new ribbon conector to aux board.
 
So that cable would plug into the pbc boards? I know the dk jr has two but what remote board are you referring to?
The game PCB that is labeled CPU. I will try and post a picture.
http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/PacoBozo/pcb_donkexkongjr_7653_800.jpg

pcb_donkexkongjr_7653_800.jpg
 
Got it... Update was slow on my phone disregard the last posts.
Also... The first pic of the resistor(?) the big white ceranic one... It has power on one side but not the other... Where can I get that part?

That's a standard ceramic resistor, and IIRC it's 180ohm 20 watts (but check,it'll be marked). It should be available from most electronic part distributors - Mouser, Digikey, etc. Bob Roberts might even carry it.

If it's open, then you probably have bigger problems. Resistors like this do not fail often - something drew way too much current through it. Double check the resistor with your meter on the ohms setting, see if it's open.

Did you check the fuse on the chassis? Is it blown, or is it the wrong type of fuse? It should be a 300ma fuse.

-Ian
 
The game PCB that is labeled CPU. I will try and post a picture.
http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k573/PacoBozo/pcb_donkexkongjr_7653_800.jpg

pcb_donkexkongjr_7653_800.jpg

Sorry, off-topic question. What is that silver rectangle in the middle of the board? Some sort of heat shield? My Donkey Kong is missing this, but it looks like there is a place where it would be attached. Did Donkey Kong use this? Is is essential/helpful? Can I buy a replacement somewhere? My board looks liek the attached picture.
 

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Sorry, off-topic question. What is that silver rectangle in the middle of the board? Some sort of heat shield? My Donkey Kong is missing this, but it looks like there is a place where it would be attached. Did Donkey Kong use this? Is is essential/helpful?

I think that's just an RF shield - to reduce possible interference. I doubt it's necessary. Sometimes it's there, other times it's not. Don't worry about it.

-Ian
 
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